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Thread: Side Spring Back

  1. #1

    Default Side Spring Back

    Hello there!

    Another (among many, thanks so much for all of your help) first time build question.

    I'm getting ready to glue the plates on and I get about .25" - .50" of spring back on the sides when I pull it out of my form jig. They were formed over a hot pipe and the neck/tail blocks along with the lining has already been glued in place.

    Is this much spring back something to worry about or is there anything that can be done at this point?

    Thanks in advance!!

  2. #2
    Registered User fscotte's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Zanesville, Ohio
    Posts
    2,490

    Default Re: Side Spring Back

    Your plates will keep the rim in check.

    I glue the top plate on with the rim in the jig. Avoids any symmetry issues.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Side Spring Back

    Quote Originally Posted by fscotte View Post
    Your plates will keep the rim in check.

    I glue the top plate on with the rim in the jig. Avoids any symmetry issues.
    Thanks! Do you think one plate be enough to hold it together while I work on/fit the neck?

  4. #4
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    springfield,ohio
    Posts
    611

    Default Re: Side Spring Back

    I keep my rims in the forms till after the kerfing is glued on. After that, there is very little spring back.. If making rims ahead, I use rubber bands to keep everything close in shape. If there is any spring back it is usually at the first curve after the scroll and the rubber bands will hold it in. Watch your center line also. I attach my necks before the plates but glue a plate on as soon as I can.. Once a plate is on it won't move....
    kterry

  5. #5

    Default Re: Side Spring Back

    Also, will go bars be good enough for gluing the firt plate on while in the jig since there won't be enough room for cello clamps?

  6. #6

    Default Re: Side Spring Back

    I made about thirty spool clamps out of threaded rod, wood closet rod, and cork sheets. These work great. Wing nuts apply plenty of pressure.
    Silverangel A
    Arches F style kit
    1913 Gibson A-1

  7. #7
    Adrian Minarovic
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banska Bystrica, Slovakia, Europe
    Posts
    2,659

    Default Re: Side Spring Back

    I glue both plates with ribs in mould and use spruce sticks to hold the rim tightly against mould. I remove the sticks through f holes (cut them into pieces with long nosed pliers). My mould is four piece that can be removed from F-style body after gluing the plates which, would be otherwise hard to do with ordinary mould (you would have to trim the top and push the body out -if alignment allows)

    I used to glue just the back in mould and before gluing top I checked the outline against template and added sticks to nudge the shape precisely where I wanted it but using mould for both is so brainless...
    Adrian

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