Re: Frets and Acoustics
I have refretted several mandolins from 50x31 (and 50x37) to 80x50 (widthxheight, height is the one you will feel).
- to me, frets below about 45 in height get progressively more difficult to play. 31s are torture, 37's are better but not all the way to good.
- not all players care about fret height, some don't notice it or care, but it makes a big difference to me.
- new nut is either required, or the old one shimmed and refiled, I've done both. Same result.
- some instruments benefit more from taller frets, I haven't found any that suffered. I had one (MD605 f-hole) that sounded dramatically better, more sustain, better tone, especially on the G string, like it opened up x 10. Another (MD604 oval-hole) got a smidge better, more open less tubby, but nothing as huge as the MD605. For the MD605 the fret job would have been worth it for the tone alone.
- taller frets are the same acoustically as higher action, some guitar players will up their action to get better sound, IMHO put on some taller frets too so you gain playability as well.
- I hear wider frets will last longer if you do a lot of bending, but haven't tested this myself. I prefer tall narrow frets, 80x50's are my goto's, that is the tallest fret that isn't a jumbo, meaning over 100 in width.
- the only downside to taller frets is if you press real hard near the nut it is easier to bend the string sharp, this will be more pronounced with lighter strings. But mandolin frets are so close together it doesn't matter much, on an electric guitar this effect is much more noticable.
Last edited by kurth83; Feb-09-2019 at 11:19pm.
Davey Stuart tenor guitar (based on his 18" mandola design).
Eastman MD-604SB with Grover 309 tuners.
Eastwood 4 string electric mandostang, 2x Airline e-mandola (4-string) one strung as an e-OM.
DSP's: Helix HX Stomp, various Zooms.
Amps: THR-10, Sony XB-20.
Bookmarks