Should I upgrade to a better instrument

[doublestoptremolo]

Looks like it might be an older KM-340s.

[J-45er]

I've been playing for about 3 years and having lots of fun. I've also played guitar for many years.

I'm wondering if my current instrument may be holding me back. It seems to be a mid-level Kentucky, but I can't read the handwritten model number inside (picture attached).

Is this your Kentucky mandolin? Your's looks a lot like it.

https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/133578#133578

[Charles E.]

By the looks of the bridge position you could do with a better set up. Usually for proper compensation and intonation the bass side of the bridge is further back from the nut then the treble side. Yours looks backwards.

After three years of playing you deserve an upgrade, good luck!

[gfury]

Here is the label. Maybe it does say "340" or "310"

[Charles E.]

Something like this in the classifieds might do you well.......

https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/133588#133588

And yes, you are worthy.

[DocT]

Looking at the serial number, the last "number" (if it can be called that) is the same as the number after the 3 in the model number.

This KM-340 sure does look like it:
https://www.musiciansfriend.com/folk...model-mandolin

[gfury]

Looking at the serial number, the last "number" (if it can be called that) is the same as the number after the 3 in the model number.

This KM-340 sure does look like it:
https://www.musiciansfriend.com/folk...model-mandolin

I think you found it. Thanks

[Paul Busman]

Where in Maryland are you?(I'm in Frederick).
A trip to the House Of Musical Traditions might be worth your while:

https://hmtrad.com/

The people there really know their stuff. Bring your current mandolin and play it up against everything they have.
This luthier in Frederick is very highly recommended by people I know. He may actually be the person that House Of Musical Traditions uses for their repairs. If you think you need a better setup, he might be your guy.

https://www.facebook.com/Glickman.luthier/

[gfury]

Where in Maryland are you?(I'm in Frederick).
A trip to the House Of Musical Traditions might be worth your while:

https://hmtrad.com/

The people there really know their stuff. Bring your current mandolin and play it up against everything they have.
This luthier in Frederick is very highly recommended by people I know. He may actually be the person that House Of Musical Traditions uses for their repairs. If you think you need a better setup, he might be your guy.

https://www.facebook.com/Glickman.luthier/

I'm in Olney/Brookeville (Montgomery County).

I've been to House Of Musical Traditions. I also visit Appalachian Bluegrass in Catonsville when I can.

Thanks for the info in Marc, I may reach out to him.

[lflngpicker]

I agree with most everything above, from the recommendations to get a great set up, to the importance of technique and practice, and finally, that an upgraded or different mandolin is always an option. Certainly Kentucky mandolins are good instruments that played well can be very enjoyable. Like you, I am a long time serious guitarist who came to the mandolin over five years ago and there came a time when I wanted to progress in what I was playing. Play-ability of an instrument, along with proper intonation and the tone you seek for your musical taste are all factors in choosing a new (or nice used) mandolin. If it is in your range and you desire to seek an upgrade, you certainly do not need further justification. Best to you as you shop around!

[JPS]

Looking at the serial number, the last "number" (if it can be called that) is the same as the number after the 3 in the model number.

This KM-340 sure does look like it:
https://www.musiciansfriend.com/folk...model-mandolin

No "S" at the end of his model number, but that has to be the one, right? Did Kentucky ever make a KM-340?

[colorado_al]

"S" means solid top on earlier models. However, more recent models do not have that convention and most have solid tops, though not all. And earlier Kentuckys are not known for labeling consistency.

[gfury]

By the looks of the bridge position you could do with a better set up. Usually for proper compensation and intonation the bass side of the bridge is further back from the nut then the treble side. Yours looks backwards.

After three years of playing you deserve an upgrade, good luck!

I agree that the bridge position looks odd. However, that's where the intonation is correct. I just fiddled with it again (harmonic at the 12th same as the note on the open string).

[Rob Roy]

I think Br1ck's advice is spot on. You should definitely notice a solid difference in sound with a $1000 range instrument, especially in playing in a jam setting. A friend of mine recently bought an 800 series Eastman used and I'm impressed with the sound, quite loud when you lean on it. Unfortunately, the next jump after that is the $2500 and up range- that's when you really have to start weighing how much it means to you.

[Bill McCall]

A Ratliff Countyboy A is $1500 new. Great instruments. New or used would be an excellent choice.

[Br1ck]

The Country Boy and Silverangel Econo A are two fine examples of instruments that can catapult you into the world of great sounding mandolins. Audy Ratliff has a video where he says his mandolins get put together with the necks glued on before he even knows what model they will be. You are getting the same functionality as his fancier mandolins.

Get pretty much anything at this level, and it will be a great place to start as you begin to evaluate what is really important to you. As you discover what direction your playing is taking, you'll know what tonal traits you need in a mandolin, and you may or may not want a different mandolin. i'd say it will be 95% you will, and spending time with this level instrument will be informative.

[Stephen Perry]

I have been through a few mandolins over the years, from rock bottom starter grade through Loar-era Gibsons. More than just touching - looking and working inside, doing all the setup and acoustic tweaking I can come up with. I'll paraphrase FattDad: the instrument provides and gradually compressing limit on the realization of one's potential. However, that limit can be expanded through very careful and cognizant mechanical setup for playing and through getting the maximum acoustic performance out of the particular instrument.

An element difficult to address, even with instruments side by side, is the difference in setup and acoustic coherence of various mandolins. Gordon Roberts when with Eastman could walk along and tap or whatever a line of instruments and pick out the really good ones. Most people who don't deal with mandolins all the time can't do this.

So in a store setting, one generally faces a wall of instruments with varying setup and at various points on the realization of each's potential performance curve. This makes comparison especially demanding, especially for the advancing player.

My suggestion would be to find a great reputation instrument, used, and then have whomever set it up and get its acoustic performance maximized. With the instrument in place and the likely performance issues out of the way, whatever remains an issue is far more likely than not with the player. I do not know who else other than me does detailed acoustic work, but surely there are folks out there. I have published my process here (although it's substantially more advanced now), so I am sure there are those out there who are following along similar lines.

Regardless, they're all "in the rough" when straight out on the showroom floor, to some extent or another.

Good luck with the search.