New mando. Still trying to adapt. Thoughts welcome.

[infinitipearl]

Hi all! First post, but look forward to participating long term. Was playing on a Kentucky 150 and I love it. Sounds big and relatively warm. Flat fretboard that I can get around on pretty easily. Was getting pretty decent (been playing a couple of months).

Just got a new fancy mando from a reputable luthier (I don't know why, MAS I guess, I certainly didn't need it). Anyhow, I noticed a couple of things. A) It's a lot quieter but also a lot more sensitive to whether or not you are holding it against your body (really dampers down the volume), B) it's actually quite a big smaller than my Kentucky (didn't realize this until I played them back to back), and C) I'm having a heckuva a hard time adapting to the radius fretboard - missing the strings with the pick (they are wound D'Addarios, rather than the Thomastiks on my Kentucky), grabbing too much string, etc. I've fiddled with the action a bit and have noticed a low action makes this even harder, so I've brought it back up a bit. Hopefully this difficulty will change with a bit more time on the instrument. Just introducing myself, and also seeing if others had similar difficulties switching from a flat to a radiused fretboard, or from a larger to a smaller mandolin. They are both A-types. I use a strap, no tone back, no arm rest, Dunlop Primetone picks.

Cheers

[Caleb]

Greetings and welcome. Why not just play the one you like better?

[Rdeane]

When I switched from my Kentucky KM505 to a Collings MT2, I was surprised how different the Collings neck profile was. I "knew" it was different, a soft V profile, but when I started playing it in earnest the difference was daunting. I was used to a radiused fretboard, so no problem there. The Collings was also smaller overall. I just persisted, and before I knew it, the neck wasn't so different anymore. I got a tonegard and that was a nice addition to the Collings. I am now a happy camper. I just kept at it, because the tone of the Collings is so much better than the Kentucky. And I don't notice the V on the neck at all now. Bottom line, if you like the tone of the new mandolin, keep at it and you will probably adjust and be happy with it overall.

[Bob Buckingham]

I like KM-150's they are great for entry level mandolins and once in a while you find them with great inherent tone. I played one for a couple of years when teaching and finally sold it to a student who really loved it. Make note of what you like about your mandolins and don't like and go from there. You want to catalog your preferences so you end up with an instrument that you really like. I have a mandolin that is not great shakes in the world of mandolins of status but it sounds good, plays easily and I love the way it sounds. I'll keep it even though that was my intent when I got it. Keep looking and learning, it is a journey not a destination.

[Ranald]

Bottom line, if you like the tone of the new mandolin, keep at it and you will probably adjust and be happy with it overall.

I'm with "Rdeane" on this one. I went from fiddle to mandolin, then to banjolin. Each instrument has the same tuning, but differs in size and design. I found each adjustment difficult at first, but easier as I persisted. Going from fiddle to mandolin was especially hard (after a few years, I'm still better at picking than chording on mandolin, because I'm used to playing one note, or sometimes two notes, at a time on fiddle). The change between the mandolin and banjolin is less extreme, but still noticeable. I use the mandolin more often, and have to be careful not to neglect the banjolin, or playing it becomes difficult again. Good luck and enjoy your instruments.

By the way, if you haven't discovered Rob Meldrum's free (printable) Mandolin Set-Up Ebook, check it out. For a copy, email rob.meldrum@gmail.com and put Mandolin Setup in the subject line (see the Original Post in this thread).

[Gary Leonard]

I find it odd that wound bronze strings would play softer than a Kentucky with Thomastik flatwound strings. Also, how much is the size difference? What kind of mandolin is the new one? If the luthier is reputable, I wouldn't worry about naming the builder and model. With more information, people here can give you better advice. Perhaps you are comparing apples to oranges with these two models. Also, what is your background with stringed musical instruments? It appears to me from your post you have some experience with other instruments.

I have always played a radius, but I can say that trying a flat fretboard gives me fits. Trying instruments out at a store, I won't even play a mandolin once I realize it is flat. Trying out other people's mandolins at camps and jams, I now have enough experience to adjust and give flat fretboards a try, but only on higher end instruments that I want to give a go at.

I bet the majority of your issues are due to your right hand. Video yourself and compare the two mandolins, particularly how the pick is attacking the strings. Make sure your hand isn't floating, it is hard to be accurate with your right hand if you don't have a reference point. Mike Marshall has a good take on this, there should be a youtube video out there. I'd play a lot of open strings for a bit, vary your right arm motion, exaggerate the movement, don't worry if you hit the adjacent strings when playing a single pair. Try and see how you can drive your new mando. When swapping between my Collings MT and Weber Bitterroot F, I noticed the Weber seemed quieter and more muted. The issue was me, I had a timid approach to stringed instruments (mandolin being my first instrument at age 51), which the Collings responded well to. When I really rode the Weber, I could see what it was capable off. Even more so when someone else who knew what they were doing played it.

[dhergert]

If playability is a problem, I'd highly suggest communicating about that with the luthier who built your mandolin. Most builders really want their customers to be happy.

Regarding tone and volume, a new mandolin takes some time to wake up. Give it 6 months to a year of serious playing to "break in".

Since you mention an audible difference when you hold the mandolin against your body, you might specifically want to consider a ToneGard. That is exactly why they are being produced.

Regarding the fingerboard radius, are you sure that's what you're having trouble adjusting to? For a narrow mandolin fingerboard radius, they are often imperceptible. Could it be the neck profile that is bothering you more?

[pheffernan]

It sounds to me like your muscle memory is used to the Kentucky. Given time, my guess is that it will adapt to the new instrument as well with the same number of hours invested in it.

[infinitipearl]

All super advice so far, thank you so much. What an awesome resource the Café is. I do believe (or hope) it is in large part muscle memory, and given some more practice time it will be just as automatic as on the Kentucky right now. It's a good point about whether it is neck vs fretboard I'm fretting about (see what I did there). And the right hand practice is a great suggestion; I think I've seen that Mike Marshall video but I'll go back and verify. I am expecting *maybe* some opening up over time (this is a brand new mando), but not counting on it. I'll leave that conversation/debate for all the threads that have come before, and will come after I'm sure. I hail from strummin' ukes so the pickin' is new to me, but super enjoyable. I look forward every day to getting home and practicing.

[LadysSolo]

infinitipearl, don't give up - I play 5 different mandolins with 5 different necks and sounds. I like them all, and within 5 minutes of being on a different mandolin it works just fine. You will adjust, give it a chance.

[Paul Busman]

I've always found it takes time to adjust to a new instrument. I recently moved from a 19" scale tenor banjo to a 22"-- that's been a BIG change, but I'm adapting to it.
Give it time.If you have actual problems with the higher end instrument,contact the maker. If you just don't care for the tone or feel of the instrument after a good,long trial, sell it and find one that suits you more. If at all possible, try to get your hands on it before you buy it.If you can manage a trip to a dealer that has a lot of instruments on hand, that would be well worth a trip.

[Bill Cameron]

With respect, maybe you’re just getting ahead of yourself a bit. There might be subleties in tone that you’re not dialled in on yet. If you like the Thomastiks (flatwound?), try them on the new baby too so you’ll at least have an even comparison. To eguard, too.

Are there ”form factor” (godawful expression) differences between the two, or do they have the same f-hole, neck-to-body length, top and body materials? I am going to hazard a guess that you will grow to like the radiused FB, once you get used to it you may find it awkward digging into the centre strings on a flat board.

You’d think I would have learned by now; every time I go looking for a new instrument I have a little list of features I want, and again and again I find that if I just select based on the features (including maker/brand) I think I want, rather than the instrument that instantly sounds and feels right, I end up disappointed. That is why I advocate very very strongly for “try before you buy” purchasing. You might wait a few more months to arrange it if you live in a mandolin-desert area (as most of us do) but if you already have a functional instrument, so what?

Happy pickin’. What counts is the grin on your face when you make a playing breakthrough.

[Br1ck]

I can adapt to pretty much any neck. I have guitars from 1 5/8 to 1 3/4, and the difference between my Silverangel and A1 is quite a lot. It does take ten minutes or so to adjust. All my necks are radius but when I've played flat, it never seemed like it would be an issue. I'm sure everyone is different. I'd give it some time and don't jump back and forth.

[Mandoplumb]

I guess I'm in the minority but I won't buy a radiuse board. Could I get used to it? Maybe, but why should I? If I am car or truck shopping I have in the past bought one that didn't "fit" me, I got used to it but it never felt as comfortable as one that felt right from the start, so I buy my instruments to fell right from the start. Infinitpearl you may be one of those rare souls that prefer a flat board. Don't despair you are not a second class mandolin player because of it, in fact you are in some pretty good company.

[OneChordTrick]

infinitipearl, don't give up - I play 5 different mandolins with 5 different necks and sounds. I like them all, and within 5 minutes of being on a different mandolin it works just fine. You will adjust, give it a chance.

Agree 100% with this, I’ve only been playing seriously for a year but can happily switch between my two instruments.

[zedmando]

(I don't know why, MAS I guess, I certainly didn't need it).

You don't have to know why--it does happen

[Ivan Kelsall]

IMHO - 'Learning to adapt' is crucial. If i found my 'perfect' mandolin but it didn't have my favourite neck profile or was a tad wider / narrower than the ones i own - it wouldn't bother me one bit,i'd simply adapt to it. As it is,i don't have a 'favorite' neck profile or width,they're just mandolins & i play 'em !!,
Ivan

[usqebach]

Give it a while.

1) You will adapt. When you have more time on your new one than the old one it will feel more comfortable to you.

2) Also, give the mandolin time to open up. I’ve been playing the BRW in my profile for 5 years now, and just within the last few months it has developed an open sound and become easy to play.