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Thread: Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

  1. #1
    Registered User Sevelos's Avatar
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    Default Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

    I just bought a new Kentucky KM-272 mandolin from Elderly. I think Elderly have "pro-Setup" it.
    While the Action looks quite low, the strings feel tight. I changed the original strings to Thomastik Mediums, which is what I also use on my Godin A8, and although the scale length is the same on both mandolins and the action looks similar, the strings on the Kentucky are much tighter and quite uncomfortable for me.

    I noticed then that while the fretboard on the Kentucky is radiused, the bridge (and the nut?) are straight.
    This annoys me, as not only I don't get the advantages of a radiused fretboard, I also feel that the action of the E and G strings, especially the ones on the edges of the fretboard, is higher than the action of the D and A strings.
    Elderly, while being very nice, said that because this is the way Kentucky mandolins are sold, Elderly does not take responsibility (e.g., sending me another bridge, unless I want to buy one). They offered me to return the instrument, but as I live in Israel, this is not really an option for me.

    Anyone dealt with this problem before (radiused fretboard, straight nut and bridge)?
    Could there be other reasons why the strings feel so tight (such as the frets being a little thicker on the Kentucky than the Godin)?

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  3. #2
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    Default Re: Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

    Well, that combination ain't gonna fly. A lot of people prefer radiused boards (I'm one). But the nut radius and string slots have to match the radius (it's simple geometry). Same with the saddle, although if the fingerboard was a compound radius the saddle might not match the nut end. Nonetheless, it you have a few tools (and get Rob Meldrum's book), you can fix this.

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    Registered User Ivan Kelsall's Avatar
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    Default Re: Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

    If the nut slots are of varying depths,then it will behave as a 'radiused' nut,so will the bridge slots. However - going back 10 years or so,i fitted a new CA bridge to my first good mandolin. The only CA bridge available to me over here had a straight saddle. I drew the radius of the existing saddle & the string spacings onto a piece of cardboard,& then using that as a template,i sanded the contour onto the new CA saddle. Having marked the string spacings onto the template,i just used a scalpel blade to re-cut the string slots. They only needed to be deep enough to keep the strings from moving,& it worked fine.

    Doing that was far easier than cutting slots of varying depths,
    Ivan
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    Registered User Tavy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

    As Ivan said, even with a radiused board, the top of the nut is often straight or near enough - as long as the nut slots are correctly cut it makes no difference.
    As for bridge - if the board has a compound radius, then the bridge should be straight or near enough to it - the only way to check is to actually measure the action at each string course and see if it's consistent from course to course. On the other hand if the board has a fixed radius then yes the bridge radius should match.
    So.... it might be a case of just lowering the bridge down a touch, or it might not... it depends I'm afraid.

    In the mean time, the nut action is easy to double check, see: http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musi...nutaction.html

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    Default Re: Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

    Don't want the notches too deep on either end. Just a slice and trim issue. Not too bad.
    Stephen Perry

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    Default Re: Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

    This is not the experience that I've had. I bought a Kentucky KM-272 new from Elderly and the saddle is radiused. The setup was great from them as well.
    If you don't like the instrument or the setup, and they will not work with you to make it right, I'd suggest you return it for a refund.

  10. #7
    Registered User Sevelos's Avatar
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    Default Re: Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

    Quote Originally Posted by colorado_al View Post
    This is not the experience that I've had. I bought a Kentucky KM-272 new from Elderly and the saddle is radiused. The setup was great from them as well.
    If you don't like the instrument or the setup, and they will not work with you to make it right, I'd suggest you return it for a refund.
    Colorado_al - could you please add a photo of your radiused bridge on the Kentucky KM-272?
    This will help me, as Elderly says that the Kentucky dealer insists that the flat bridge is how Kentucky (Saga?) sells the mandolins. If I prove to them that some mandolins do come with a radiused bridge, perhaps they could ask Kentucky to supply the correct bridge?
    Regarding returning the mandolin - like I wrote, this is not a real option for me, as I live in Israel (a friend brought the mandolin from the USA for me) and it will be complicated and expensive.

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    Default Re: Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

    If you're out of USA your best bet will be to replace the bridge and fit it yourself. Not a bad idea anyhow since the bridge on the Kentucky is Santos Rosewood. You could replace it with a radiused ebony bridge.
    I'm out of town until Jan 2 but would be happy to post a pic at that time

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  13. #9

    Default Re: Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

    Without having the instrument in hand, it's difficult to know exactly what's wrong. However you should keep in mind that the path of each string is independent of the shape of the saddle top or nut top.

    Starting with the nut, the depths of the slots should be in the same plane as the tops of the frets. That's done by correctly filing the depth of each slot. After that is complete, whatever you do to the top of the nut is largely cosmetic.

    If you have a radiused fretboard but flat saddle, the simple solution is to adjust the thumbwheel so that the A and D string pairs are at the desired height. That will likely leave the E and G pairs slightly high, but you can slightly deepen the slots in the saddle. No other modifications are required.

    Remember the difference between a radiused fretboard and flat only amount to a few thousandths of an inch. The adjustments I described above are not large, but they will make a significant difference in feel. No parts are required, just a little time.

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    Registered User Louise NM's Avatar
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    Default Re: Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

    My 272, purchased this spring, came with a radiused fret board and a flat ( or even slightly concave) bridge. I'm lucky to have access to a fantastic luthier who made short work of that problem. He was able to recut the bridge that was on it rather than replace it.

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  17. #11
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    Default Re: Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

    It could be that the bridge has changed on the 200 model Kentuckys. I've owned my KM-272 for about a year and a half. However, the last 2 KM-250 mandolins I've worked on also had radiused bridges.

  18. #12
    Registered User Louise NM's Avatar
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    Default Re: Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

    Any chance they had some old flat bridges to use up first?

    Sevelos, how do you like the sound of the Thomastik strings on the Kentucky? (I know you're not liking the way it feels.) I bought a set a month or so ago and haven't put them on yet.

  19. #13
    Registered User Sevelos's Avatar
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    Default Re: Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

    Quote Originally Posted by Louise NM View Post
    Any chance they had some old flat bridges to use up first?

    Sevelos, how do you like the sound of the Thomastik strings on the Kentucky? (I know you're not liking the way it feels.) I bought a set a month or so ago and haven't put them on yet.
    I really like Thomastik mandolin strings and use them on all my other mandolins as well. On this Kentucky KM-272, the Thomastiks don't buzz, while the original strings that came with the mandolin buzzed somewhat. Although I don't like how the strings feel on this mandolin due to its weird setup, the feeling with the original strings was even worse.

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  21. #14

    Default Re: Radiused fretboard with straight bridge on a Kentucky

    If you could trace the radius at the nut and the 12th fret and post them here we could see if the radius is straight or compound. If compound it will be shallower at the 12th and very shallow at the bridge saddle. Several good options posted above also.

    Scott

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