Kentucky KM 1050 v 1500 or 1000 v 1500

[cap217]

I know the difference for the 1050 and its more modern and I own one. What I am wondering is what the differences are in terms of sound between the 1050 and the 1500? I guess it would be fair to compare the 1000 to the 1500 but since I own the 1050 I am asking about that.

I may not be sold on the larger frets and radiused board. I want to be and am not giving up but when I play my Loar with the same width frets but a little shorter and a flat board I seem to feel more comfortable.

Compare neck shapes too please. Are they consistent in the models or is it ever changing? I cant tell if I like the 1050 neck shape vs the loar 520 or if its the frets and board. Too many differences to actually compare fairly.

Asking all this because I may be open to selling the 1050 for a 1500. I actually like the sound of the Kentucky a lot and dont think you can do much better in that price range. To be open I have played an Eastman 815 and it was very nice. Different sounding but thats what made me want modern frets and board. But the Eastman uses Jescar FW37053 which are .053 w and .037 tall. My Loar is .078 w/ .0305 h. Kentucky is .0795w / .038h. So the eastmans are more narrow. According to kentucky specs the 1000 and 1500 have .039" wide frets but I dont know height. Does anyone know?

[Folkmusician.com]

I personally wouldn't sell the 1050 for a 1000 or a 1500. They are similar enough.

The KM-1500 frets will feel tiny in comparison. You may or may not like that. A 1500 will be somewhat similar to the feel of an Eastman. A little more pronounced V and you do notice the smaller frets. Recent Master models are pretty consistent as far as necks go.

[cap217]

I personally wouldn't sell the 1050 for a 1000 or a 1500. They are similar enough.

The KM-1500 frets will feel tiny in comparison. You may or may not like that. A 1500 will be somewhat similar to the feel of an Eastman. A little more pronounced V and you do notice the smaller frets. Recent Master models are pretty consistent as far as necks go.

Thanks. Since you handle all of these mandolins Id like to ask what the fret size difference is between the 1050 and loar 520? I have my measurements but I dont know if those are consistent or maybe the loar was dressed at some point?

And do all Loars use the same frets? at least from a mid level model like a 520 and up?

[Folkmusician.com]

I am not sure of the exact measurements, but The Loar and the 1050 frets are close enough not to be a real factor. You do have flat vs radius and a different neck profile.

All the Loars with the exception of a few of the lowest models have had the same frets. Anything recent has the same basic neck profile as well. There isn't a major difference in feel between a 520 and a 600/700 even though they are not identical.

[Mandoplumb]

If you don't like the frets and radius board trade. I think the sound would be comparable though no two mandolins sound exactly alike. I don't like tall frets or radius board and I'm not going to try to learn to like them. What Mr. Loar used is good enough for me LOL

[Bill Findley]

“A little more pronounced V and you do notice the smaller frets. Recent Master models are pretty consistent as far as necks go.”

Robert (folkmusician) sold me a new 1500 several years ago. Great mando, but started out very stiff sounding — and playing, I thought. Now it’s opened up a good deal, and I love it. My overall impression, as a sort-of intermediate player, is that you need to learn to whip it like a mule.
Also, as he says, it has a sharp V neck, and a thin neck as well. So: good punch, sustain good enough, great bluegrass mando, seems to my ears to get louder as the years go speeding by.

[illinoisfiddler]

I just recently received a KM-1500 and it is very nice sounding. Still getting the bridge in the correct position, but it seems to be well-made and likely will need minimal setup. The nut seems correct. It does have the somewhat small frets, like my KM-1000, but it has a radius board, unlike the KM-1000. The radius comes pretty naturally to me from fiddle, but I will have to get used to it on mando. Overall, this recent KM-1500 seems like a beautiful mando, wonderful attention to detail, and vivid, powerful sound with sustain for days even on fretted notes!

[Bill Findley]

Mine has a very focused sound, to me not as bright as others, “but beautiful”, as the song says. YMMV, and as we know, beauty is in the eye (and ear) of the be-player.

[illinoisfiddler]

Like I said, I need to spend a little more time with my 1500, but it sounds different than the 1000, although in the same family. The thing I notice right away is the volume and the sustain. My 1000 has improved with lots of play time, especially this summer, and is certainly no slouch. It has that Loar bluegrass tone. But the 1500 is far and away in another league, at least the one I got. I was thinking of also using the 1500 for live gigs and with a pickup, but now I am thinking of keeping it purely acoustic for high end non-amplified gigs and recording. It is that good!

[f5loar]

I like all these models plus the KM5000 Monroe model. Like most Pac Rim imports, most all will need a pro set up. The necks do feel different, but that may have more to do with them being hand made and not exact on those dimensions. I would not buy one without a 48 hour approval for that reason.

[illinoisfiddler]

The one I have looks not to need a lot of set up, but we'll see once I get the bridge intonated. I can do that myself, but anything else will need a luthier. The volume, sustain and tone on this one is first rate! I believe it is a 2018 model.

[cap217]

I forgot the 1500 has a radius board. I know it has the smaller frets though. Wish I could play these along with some eastmans side by side.

[cap217]

Is the difference in scale length 13 7/8 vs 13 3/4 large? I assume it cant be but with an instrument this size it might play a bigger role than I think. I am asking in terms of tension and playability.

I know on my gibson v fender guitars the scale length matters a lot. Gibson is 24.75 and Fender is 25.5. I use 10s on the Gibson and 9s on the Fenders. 10s on Fenders are fine and I used them for years but then started learning about scale length and tensions and wanted everything to feel closer.

[illinoisfiddler]

Not sure I am understanding the reference. Looks like Kentucky KM-1000, KM-1050 and KM-1500 all share the same scale length, 13" 7/8 (354mm) according to the Saga web site.

[cap217]

Not sure I am understanding the reference. Looks like Kentucky KM-1000, KM-1050 and KM-1500 all share the same scale length, 13" 7/8 (354mm) according to the Saga web site.

Yes but my loar is 13 3/4

[Phil Goodson]

Yes but my loar is 13 3/4

Off topic (sorry), but I just checked the GC website and stopped after reading specs for at least 4 different The Loar scalelengths. 13.5, 13.75, 13.86, 13.90 (29/32"), and 25.5 (obvious typo).
I'm skeptical that they're making 4 different fingerboard scales. But I don't really know.

[illinoisfiddler]

I thought F style mandolins were pretty standard at 13" 7/8 scale length as set by those early Gibson models?

[vanguard]

I can tell you the neck carve is just incredibly comfortable on the KM1000. I know it's subjective, but man that's a nice medium V.

[illinoisfiddler]

I can tell you the neck carve is just incredibly comfortable on the KM1000. I know it's subjective, but man that's a nice medium V.

I agree, and the small neck width works great for me coming from fiddle. My KM-1500 feels more or less the same.

[cap217]

Just out of curiosity can anyone measure there fret size on a 1000 and 1500? I assume same frets but I am curious about height and width. And it would be nice to have that in this thread for reference.

[Folkmusician.com]

KM-1500:

Tang 0.5mm
Crown 1.3mm.

[Mando73]

I had a 1500, returned it and bought a 1050. The 1050 was so much easier for me to play and enjoy. It has a nice woody sound and bark. Great mandolin for under $2500 new.