how to take off the wooden strap button

[fergmaun]

I would like to know how to take off the wooden strap button on my Kentucky KM-172 Mandolin because it is very tight and will not budge.



I have the Golden Gate Tailpiece which I would like to use on my mandolin

[rowka]

Just pull it. Should be a tapered friction fit.

[Marty Jacobson]

They can be extremely tight, especially if the instrument was made in a drier humidity condition than the instrument is in now.
Sometimes you may need to make a "fork" to try to get some leverage, kind of like a guitar bridge pin puller. Or you could very carefully wrap tape around the endpin, then wrap tape around the jaws of some channel-lock pliers, and then try to get some twisting action going on, that should help. If not, some Bad Person may have put some super glue in there, if it's not yours from day one... that's going to involve impact to get it out, but hopefully you don't have to go there.



Also found this idea:

[multidon]

Be careful. A while back Stew Mac sold ebony end buttons with screws. I used one on an instrument that had an endpin jack that I wanted to convert back to acoustic. I plugged the hole with a dowel, replaced the tail piece, then drilled a pilot hole and screwed it in. The result was indistinguishable from a friction pin. When I sold it I disclosed the modification to the buyer. I would make darn sure that’s not what you’re dealing with before you start. Of course, if that’s what you have, a firm twist to the left and it should unscrew.

I use one of those rubber things for opening jar lids to give me a good grip with friction pins. If a firm side to side twisting doesn’t loosen it then someone glued it in. And you’re really up a creek. If you’re sure there’s no metal screw on the other side, you could drill a hole through the center, crush the hollow shell with players, and use a tiny chisel to remove the rest. That would, of course, be a last resort and would necessitate a slow and cautious approach.

[fergmaun]

Got wooden strap button off ok.

Protected button with sock first then using pliers, twisted/pulled it off.

Thank for help.

[Ray(T)]

Using rubber is a great way of unscrewing things that won't unscrew. It helps you grip whatever it is tightly - been using that method for years with tight jar lids!

[Hendrik Ahrend]

I'd look inside first. The hole for or even the tip of a tapered strap button should be clearly visible.

[Br1ck]

I just had the opposite issue. I had taken it out when I stripped my mando build for final finish. Well six weeks later I did the final buff out today. Putting the endpin back in. I couldn't get it but half way in. Ended up rubbing the pin on some beeswax. Twisted in 95% and finished it with a gentile tap with my fretting hammer.

[Ivan Kelsall]

Marty - I used a similar method to the one shown in your pic.,to remove 3 very stubborn tuner buttons on my Ellis a few months back. They'd been screwed on too tight,& the soft material had been squeezed over the wide part of the tuner shaft. It didn't take much effort to move them & then they came off very easily. I was amazed that the button material (Gotoh) was so relatively 'soft'.At least it wasn't brittle enough to crack,
Ivan

[Ray(T)]

I believe that he's now got the thing off with a sock and a pair of pliers!

What I can't believe is that somebody still makes a tool to remove bridge pins. If you need one of those, there's either something seriously wrong or you've pushed them in too tightly.

[Hendrik Ahrend]

They can be extremely tight, especially if the instrument was made in a drier humidity condition than the instrument is in now.

Sorry Marty, don't you think the opposite is the case? If wood dries, it shrinks and the end pin hole gets smaller. In more humid conditions the hole should get wider, and the end pin should be easier to remove. The end pin itself, being from ebony, should hardly shrink or expand at all.

[pops1]

Sorry Marty, don't you think the opposite is the case? If wood dries, it shrinks and the end pin hole gets smaller. In more humid conditions the hole should get wider, and the end pin should be easier to remove. The end pin itself, being from ebony, should hardly shrink or expand at all.

In humid conditions both the pin and the wood of the block will swell causing the pin to be very tight. Same thing happens with fiddle pegs that haven't been used for a while in the summer here. I put them under a 100 watt light far enough away so there is no heat, but the air is drier and by the next day they will come out without much problem.

[Hendrik Ahrend]

In humid conditions both the pin and the wood of the block will swell causing the pin to be very tight. Same thing happens with fiddle pegs that haven't been used for a while in the summer here. I put them under a 100 watt light far enough away so there is no heat, but the air is drier and by the next day they will come out without much problem.

Oh, smarter every day; wouldn't have thought ebony expands/shrinks that much. Thanks.

[Dave Martin]

Collings endpins are glued in; I confirmed this with them. Per the shop advice, I cut it with a fine saw, then drilled a small hole in the remaining, and used that hole to start with a taper tool. I worked s l o w l y, cause I am not a regular with drills around expensive instruments. I also went slightly overboard on masking. The Tap-a-string pin went in fine, and sticks tight, but not too tight to remove. I do not know if Saga/Kentucky are glued in. For some reason, I doubt it. Related: Martin saddles(!) on my model OM-28VR from late 90's are glued in. A major job to remove, above my pay grade.