Easy string changing

[Paul Busman]

I keep seeing threads at the Cafe, and on other string instrument forums with people asking how to change strings. Many people seem to be afraid to tackle the task, and people make all sorts of suggestions for locking the string,using a string winder,using a capo to hold the string down at the nut, how to estimate how much extra string to allow for winding around the post, and Blu Tack putty to hold the string loop on the tailpiece. No wonder they're afraid.
Years ago I saw an online description of how to change strings which eliminates all of that rigamarole.It was a real "why didn't I think of that!" moment. I've described it here on several of the string change threads but there are people that have had trouble visualizing it. Finally after years of procrastinating, I made a little video of the technique. Steven Spielberg it ain't, but hopefully it makes string changes a little less daunting.
It works for any vertical post string instrument, not slotted heads.

[pops1]

I have done it this way for at least 3 decades. Never knew why string winders and complaints about string changing were so prevalent.

[Ray(T)]

I adopted that method a couple of years ago and can confirm it's the easiest I've tried in 40+ years. What I'm not sure is how effective it will be on my Mandostrat which has slotted tuner posts. Ideally, the string needs to go through the slot first, with the windings on top, otherwise it will have a tendency to come out again whilst tightening up.

The easiest tuners I've ever found are the locking ones on my Godin electric guitar - poke the string through the hole, tighten the knurled screw on the end of the post and tune the string.

[G7MOF]

Could you give me a written link as I can't open it?

[jshane]

this is the way I change strings, too. Very easy.

[peterleyenaar]

I do it the same way, learned from Michael Heiden, I use the peg winder to bring the string close to pitch, even faster.

[MikeZito]

My only modification would be to use a capo to hold the string in place under the nut, instead of holding it down with a finger.

[James Rankine]

Dang why have I been messing about with blu tac all these years- thanks Paul. One thing I did ditch a few years ago was “locking” the treble strings where you go under then over ( or something like that) - a few winds round the post and I’ve never had any string slips. It’s amazing how we just carry on doing something without question and don’t try another way that might be easier. Does your way stop you from sticking the end of the string in your finger ? ��

[Paul Busman]

Could you give me a written link as I can't open it?

Here you go:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpVU73_Z3UA

If that doesn't work, search YouTube for "easy string changing"

[AndyV]

Nifty!

[Paul Busman]

It’s amazing how we just carry on doing something without question and don’t try another way that might be easier. Does your way stop you from sticking the end of the string in your finger ? ��

I saw a sign in my dentist's office years ago that read "The most dangerous words in the language are 'we've always done it that way' ". I'm guilty of it too, just like anyone else. Change is hard,stressful.

No, you can still stick your finger. In fact, while changing the other strings prior to making the video, I stuck one of the fingers of my right hand. I actually had to clean blood off the headstock before shooting the vid.

[FredK]

I used to hate changing guitar strings but is was mostly bringing the high E up to tension. That was the only thing I was concerned about getting a mandolin. I quickly found better ways with the help of Mandolin Café forums, and I now subscribe to a method similar to Mike Marshall by bending the string back and locking it. No need for capos or other tools, though I do use a string-winder for convenience. That doesn't stop the occasional E string snap and hand welp but that's a part of the game.

Your method looks even easier and more convenient. I'll give this a go on my next string change. I'm wondering, though, if the string lock technique would work either before or after you start looping the string around the post to make sure there's no slippage. Thoughts on that?

[WoodyCTA102]

like several above, have done same for decades, although I usually do two wraps of wound strings and 2.5 or 3 for unsound strings. So much faster and easier. On a guitar, it's really fast.

[mandroid]

Mine i groked on my own , pre internet..

I've pulled on string with right hand, string goes over my hand.. as it goes up in tension ,
winding knob, with my left hand ..

I remove my hand , without losing the pull, as the tension increases.

the detour up and over my hand leaves enough winds around the capstan
when I'm done..

[Mandoplumb]

I have used the lock under string method for years don't even need a full wrap string can't slip. I thread string thru tuner hole first, hook over tit on Gibson style tailpiece, pull snug, wrap backward around the tuner post, under string pull straight up and tune, then cut excess after tuning. No need for Blu Tac, capo or anything. Also a lot of the " streching" of new string is tighting the multiple rounds on tuner post, this method eliminates that. I've done it this way for 40 years and thus far no one has shown me a better way.

[Paul Busman]

Your method looks even easier and more convenient. I'll give this a go on my next string change. I'm wondering, though, if the string lock technique would work either before or after you start looping the string around the post to make sure there's no slippage. Thoughts on that?

I've never been a string lock man myself so I can't give a definitive answer. When you lock the string, are you causing the working length of the string to fold over the part you pass under it? I was wondering if this doesn't make a sharp bend in the string, making it more likely to break. The way I describe it, by the time you pass the string through the hole there are already 4 or more turns over the post already which is plenty to prevent slippage. One thing I forgot to mention is that once I have the string up to pitch I bend it back over the hole in the tuning post at a sharp angle. I cut it about 1/2" long then fold that back on itself to hide that dangerous string end.My thought is that if I bend that edge back against the hole in the post, any slippage would be immediately visible since that bend would straighten out. I've never had a bit of slippage though, through many string changes on many instruments.

[B381]

That's the way I do it, works great!

[Mandoplumb]

Yes Paul you are causing the "working" length of the string to hold the string from backing out of the hole in tuner peg, and yes you are making a sharp bend. As I said I've been doing it this way for 40 years or so and no I don't break strings installing them or playing them. I don't say never but very very seldom as does anyone. You can't reuse them or restring them unless your new bend is shorter than the old bend but I don't reuse strings anyway. My father saved used strings in case he broke one, I don't so no problem. If you wrap 4 or 5 times then apply tension it has to pull on the wraps. Try what I describe and see if the amount of "stretching" doesn't decrease.

[DHopkins]

The fact that it's easier notwithstanding, I'd still rather be set on fire for 15 minutes than change strings. I have no trouble doing it. I just don't like it.

[Dave Hanson]

I find Frank Fords method at FRETS.COM is even easier.

Dave H

[Bertram Henze]

Does your way stop you from sticking the end of the string in your finger ? ��

It looks to me like there is a lot of fiddling with the string end this way, and I am sure I couldn't do that without bloodshed. So I'll stick with estimating the slack first and then using a string winder, never even touching the string end at all, but yes - holding the string down with a finger (or rather a thumb) while I do that.

OTOH, I am talking about restringing an OM with a tailpiece for ball-ends where nothing can get unhooked, the slack being between thumb and tailpiece, YMMV

[Ivan Kelsall]

With all due respect to Paul Busman,my own method is far more simple. I do use Bluetack, simply to hold the string loop onto the ''hook''. That way you don't need to hold the string down at all. I then hold the string to the string post (capstan),cut it so that it's about 1.25" past the post ( A & E Strings),pass it through the hole & wind it onto the string post. I do however hold the string down in the nut slot so that it gets the correct angle from post to nut slot. I cut the G & D strings to about 3/4" past the posts.

I've done it that way on banjo,guitar & now mandolin for 50 years, & i've never had a string come off or even slip once.

Dave Hanson mentions Frank Ford's ''Tie on'' method. The only mandolin i've had that came with 'tied on'' strings,was my 'used' Lebeda when it first arrived. I needed a pair of wire cutters & Snipe Nosed pliers to remove them. Removing strings from my mandolins demands nothing more that ''unwinding'' them,even then, after a few turns,they spring off of their own accord.

From David Hopkins :- " I have no trouble doing it. I just don't like it. " The ''after effects'' are pretty darned good though,aren't they David !
Ivan

[DHopkins]

From David Hopkins :- " I have no trouble doing it. I just don't like it. " The ''after effects'' are pretty darned good though,aren't they David !
Ivan

Yes, Ivan, it makes a big difference. Actually, I need to change the strings on my main Breedlove right now. I may go do it now. No, maybe tomorrow.

[drbluegrass]

Saw a video of Kenny Smith changing guitar strings the same way. I'll have to try it.

[vetus scotia]

I will definitely do it this way in the future. Banjo Ben has a similar method that he demonstrates in a great video (on the banjo, but it works on mandolin too), but his method still involves going through the hole in the post first.

Anyway, I was also really curious about the bridge on your mandolin. Is it one of these? https://www.murphymethod.com/index.c...t&contentId=99