Light gauge strings for Eastman 804

[mswlogo]

My wife plays Tenor Banjo in GDAE and I play fiddle.

We bought a used Eastman 804 to play around with.

She's really worried about how hard it is to press the strings.

Can some folks recommend some options to consider that will work on the Eastman 804.

Thanks.

[colorado_al]

I would recommend seeing if you can lower the action first. If you have a good mandolin shop near you, they can probably take care of it for you. Or at least have them check the setup.
If you do need to go to lighter strings until you get used to it, Daddario EJ73 are a good choice
http://www.daddario.com/DADMobilePro...4-47f276d8585c

[mswlogo]

Yes, I plan to have action set low.

Thanks for the suggestions.

[sblock]

It will always be the case that an 8-string mandolin (~14" scale) takes more force to fret than a 4-string tenor banjo (~21-26" scale). You can always try to lower the action on the mandolin and move to lighter gauge strings, but it will still take more force. I'll explain exactly why.

Even with D'Addario J73 (light gauge) strings on the mandolin, the string tension will range from about 17 to 22 lbs per string, for a total pull of 156 lbs.

The D'Addario EJ63I string set on the tenor banjo has string tensions that range from 16 to 24 lbs per string, for a total pull of just 77 lbs -- less than HALF of the mandolin set. That's because (1) you have half the number of strings, and (2) they're at a bit lower tension.

The force required to fret a single string (that is, deflect it), say, at a position of 1/10th of string length from the nut (that is, a typical note on the neck), is given by the formula F = 11.1dT/L, where d is the deflection, T is the string tension, and L is the overall string length (the scale length). Notice from that formula that the fretting (deflection) force varies linearly with the tension, and inversely with scale length.

Therefore:

A tenor banjo (at 22") has (22"/14") = 1.57 times the scale length of a mandolin (at 14"): this will make each mandolin string a factor of 1.57 times harder to fret, even if they were at the same tension (which they're not)!

Also, a mandolin strung with light gauge strings has a factor of (156 lbs/77 lbs) = 2.03 times more tension than a tenor banjo.

The result is that the mandolin will be an overall factor of (2.03 X 1.57) = 3.18 times harder to fret ALL ITS STRINGS AT ONCE than a tenor banjo.

Setting the action lower will reduce the deflection needed (d in the formula, above), and therefore the fretting force required, but for equivalently low actions, the mandolin will still be a factor of three times harder to fret for a full, 4-note chord. And even if the action on the mandolin is reduced to just half of the present height of the action on the tenor banjo, then it will still be a factor of (3.18/2) = 1.6 times harder to fret a 4-note chord. And I tend to doubt that you'll manage that much of an improvement, unless your tenor banjo action is set awfully high right now.

These are the harsh realities of playing an 8-string, short-scale, high-tension instrument!

There simply no getting around it, because the laws of physics are inescapable. Yes, you can switch to light gauge strings and lower the action all you can before it buzzes, but your wife is just going to have to develop the strength to fret harder if she wants to play the mandolin.

That said, there are plenty of great female mandolin players with comparatively slight builds and smaller hands who manage admirably, and seem to have no trouble at all fretting, like Sierra Hull. You might think about mentioning her as a role model to your wife!

[Bill Cameron]

“That said, there are plenty of great female mandolin players with comparatively slight builds and smaller hands who manage admirably, and seem to have no trouble at all fretting, like Sierra Hull. You might think about mentioning her as a role model to your wife!”

Then again, you might not.

[Hockey Puck]

Consider Thomastik Infield flat wound strings. They are very comfortable, and I love the warm sound I get with them on my oval hole Gibson A2. They are pricey, but still economical because they last a long time.

[jimmy powells]

I found Thomastik strings quite hard to fret. I've had a few Eastmans and here's my findings:

1. Their F-hole mandolins are very good and can handle most situations.
2. The oval hole mandolins that I have had have been very quiet. Owned and handled 3 F4s and all sounded thin as anything. Putting lighter strings on will give an even thinner sound. They are quite heavy and probably thick tops so I'd get another mandolin. What you want is LIGHT and LOUD. i.e. An F-hole mandolin.

That's just my view.

JimmyP
UK

[mswlogo]

This is not for bluegrass. It will be for old time jams, Irish jams and Contra dances.

Everything I've read and listened to, tells me get an oval hole one.

Turns out the 804 fell through, but I have a 914 on the way. Claims to have very low action setup.
A co-worker so happens to be picking up a 505 today. So we'll be able to compare the F vs Oval.

I know it will be harder to fret.

[devildog]

D'addario lights are 10 to 38. Elixir lights are 10 to 34. Not a ton of difference but I use them and like them, particularly for longevity.