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Thread: Switching to higher guage

  1. #1

    Default Switching to higher guage

    In the interest of improving volume and tone, I'm considering up-gauging from J74's to J75's (or an equivalent gauge of a different brand).

    Is this change subtle enough where I won't need to mess with action?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    You can try Mapes strings, they let you build a custom set.

    www.mapesstrings.com

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  4. #3
    coprolite mandroid's Avatar
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    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    NB; guage numbers go down, as the diameters go up, so.. better to just use diameter numbers

    like 0.115" for thicker E string than 0.110" , to be clear..

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    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    I’ve changed back and forth on occasion through the years. I’ve never had to make major adjustments to the action when doing so, but have been able to actually lower the action after going to heavier gauges (like EJ75)...
    Chuck

  6. #5

    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    I found the John Pearse “heavy” gauge to kinda wake up a Mandolin I’ve used them on a Weber, a few pac mandolins compared to the J75’s I think the JP have better tone and volume

    http://m.juststrings.com/jps-2200h.h...BoClsMQAvD_BwE

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    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    The GHS pure nickle strings have an 11, 16, 27, 41 so a little larger, not sure is they have as much tension as phosphor bronze. I do like the way they sound and last. Mine have been on for months and still sound good.
    THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!

  8. #7
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    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    I hope y'all are considering that heavy gauge strings increase the tension on an instrument considerably. If the instrument isn't built to handle it, there is a risk of severe top damage and/or a severely warped neck. If it's a modern Weber or something similar, it will probably take it.

    I wouldn't put anything heavier than 11-15-25-40 on an old Gibson, and that's pushing it. I have the evidence of this on my workbench right now-- an old A model that the previous owner had strung up with 11-16-26-41. I'm repairing the warped neck now.

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    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    I don't think the pure nickel strings have as much tension as 11-40 phosphor bronze.
    THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!

  10. #9
    Registered User Ivan Kelsall's Avatar
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    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    I've changed from lower to higher gauge strings a couple of times to try to get more volume. Both times i noticed,that the heavier G & D strings sounded less clear (to me),& i needed to pick harder. My solution was to go back to the smaller gauge & simply pick a tad harder on those - it worked both times !!.

    I had a similar experience with the Dunlop Primetone picks that i use. Going from a 1.3mm to a 1.5mm thick pick worked fine. Going from 1.5mm to a 2mm thick pick was a disaster !. It robbed my mandolins of their A & E string clarity,& i also got 'pick click' for the first time,
    Ivan
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  12. #10
    Registered User Billy Packard's Avatar
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    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    In broad terms, heavier strings on a mandolin or guitar can be played harder thereby producing more volume at the cost of tonality and brightness. Heavier strings have less sustain and a "thumpier" tone whereas lighter gauge have a much more lively sound, IMO.

    Years back I was going into a recording session with my Martin M38 which I'd been using medium gauge on for years. It was a last minute call that I'd not had time to prepare for and the only strings the local store had on hand were light gauge. Much to my surprise and delight the 'ole Martin really came to life with the light gauge strings. I haven't used mediums since!

    Some instruments that are built heavier could benefit from heavier strings because the lighter gauge won't drive the top as well. But that type of construction is not of interest to me, personally.

    Billy

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  14. #11
    Registered User sblock's Avatar
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    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    To offer some actual data to inform this discussion, the total string pull for D'Addario string sets (light, medium, and heavy) is as follows (data derived directly from D'Addario's "String Tension Pro" calculator):

    EJ- or EXP-73 (light: 10, 14, 20, 38 thou): 156 lbs.

    EJ- or EXP-74 (medium: 11, 15, 26, 40 thou): 177 lbs.

    EJ- or EXP-75 (heavy: 11.5, 16, 26, 41 thou): 189 lbs.


    These values are for the usual tuning GDAE and normal scale length of 13.875".

    Therefore:

    Changing from 74's to 75's (medium to heavy) increases the net string tension by 12 lbs., or ~7%.
    Changing from 73's to 74's (light to medium) increases the net string tension by 21 lbs., or ~12%.
    Changing from 73's to 75's (light to heavy) increases the net string tension by 33 lbs., or ~21%.

    The bottom line is that switching from light to medium gauges imposes a much larger increase in overall tension than just going from medium to heavy (in the D'Addario line, anyway). So if your mandolin can already handle medium strings, the chances are pretty good that it can handle heavy gauge strings, as well. But if your mandolin happens to be built for light strings, I would not recommend switching to either medium or heavy gauge!

    Anyway, a gentle reminder that it's spelled "gauge", not "guage (sic)."

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  16. #12
    Registered User Billy Packard's Avatar
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    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    Good info, sblock.
    I just checked my back-stock and it seems I'm using med gauge after all!
    I use the Mapes brand and the med. sizes you quote above are the stock sizes. Mapes light gauge uses a 24 D string but of course you can put together any combo you prefer with Mapes.

    Billy
    Billy Packard
    Gilchrist A3, 1993
    Weber Fern, 2007
    Stiver Fern, 1990
    Gibson 1923 A2
    Gibson 1921 H1 Mandola
    Numerous wonderful guitars

  17. #13
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    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    I order a custom set of 11.5- 16-26-40. Very similar to the GHS A270's I used for years, I just like the tone of the 11.5 E string.

  18. #14

    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    They're going on an Eastman 605. Read in other threads that it should take 75s no problem. Are Eastmans considered heavier built?

    It sounds like i will want to slightly lower my action after putting them on. I hate messing with the action.

  19. #15
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    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    You don't have to lower your action, but heavier string can be played with a lower action because of the tension increase they wobble less so you can have a lower. action. I keep the lowest action I can, it plays easier, faster and I much prefer it. So by the way did Jethro Burns.
    THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!

  20. #16
    Registered User Ivan Kelsall's Avatar
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    Default Re: Switching to higher guage

    Hi Billy - My Lebeda mandolin is 3/4 lb heavier than either my Weber of Ellis & it does need 'driving'. That was one mandoloin where i went up a gauge,from DR MD11's to DR MD12's. The expected increase in volume wasn't really apparent, & the G & D strings sounded 'dull'. I was having to pick harder to get 'the same' volume as before - so,i went back to MD11's,picked harder on those & all was well.

    I'm fairly sure that i read that Ronnie McCoury uses EJ75's (J75's as were). On his Gilchrist,i suppose that could work,especially if it was built to use the heavier strings. I think that maybe mandolins of the quality of Gils / Dudes etc.,might be more forgiving when using heavier strings,
    Ivan
    Weber F-5 'Fern'.
    Lebeda F-5 "Special".
    Stelling Bellflower BANJO
    Tokai - 'Tele-alike'.
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