Reamer for tuner bushings

[MinkBrookRambler]

I am getting close to installing the tuning machines in my first build. I have a question about which tool to buy to ream out space for the tuner bushings.

This tool looks like it’s used for many things that I could wind up doing in addition to reaming for tuner bushings (e.g. reaming hole for end pin):
http://www.lmii.com/products/tools-s...eghole-reamers

This tool looks like it’s purpose-designed but not very versatile for other jobs:
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...g_Reamers.html

I would rather not buy both tools unless it’s unavoidable.

Thank your for your help.

[Jeff Mando]

I bought a $50 reamer about 30 years ago and I still use it at least once a week for guitar related repair. It was a lot of money, but I've more than gotten my money's worth. I was at Harbor Freight about a year ago and noticed they sell a very similar looking reamer for $5, so I bought one as a spare. It works ok, but not as nicely as my old one.

[pops1]

The first one is too tapered to really work for bushings. If you are reaming a hole for an end pin or peg you need the peg to be the same taper as the hole that will be reamed. These are usually bought in a set with a shaper and reamer that are both the same taper or a shaper that is adjustable to your reamer. The adjustable ones are not as easy to use or as nice as a fixed one is. If all you need to do is the bushings I would get the busing tool.

[HoGo]

sorry wrong thread...

[crooksj]

I use the LMI reamer for both bushings and end pins. Just make sure you buy end pins with a matching taper. LMI sells those too.

[Larry Simonson]

If I remember correctly SM's Grover bushings are 0.324 inches outside diameter and none of the peg head reamers they sell match that size, and, after extensive searching, I have not been able to find a 0.324 reamer.

Incidentally, installing peg head bushing is somewhat complicated by the fact that the top and bottom surfaces are not parallel (on tapered headstocks).

[HoGo]

If I remember correctly SM's Grover bushings are 0.324 inches outside diameter and none of the peg head reamers they sell match that size, and, after extensive searching, I have not been able to find a 0.324 reamer.

Incidentally, installing peg head bushing is somewhat complicated by the fact that the top and bottom surfaces are not parallel (on tapered headstocks).

That is just hair above 8mm size, so perhaps look for metric sizes...
On new makes I've never used reamer. I drill proper sized hole (typically 7 or 8mm) all through the headstock square to the front or slightly undersized (by 0.5mm) square to the rear - which I find easier as you can see where you are drilling and easier to pervent chipout - and then enlarge the hole just slightly with 8mm rotary file (has rounded end so it is self centering) or old viola peg (that has barely any taper) covered with rough sandpaper square to the front for the bushing.
On tapered headstocks bushings are typically installed square to the front of headstock so they sit flush with surface. There is enough space for the post (on most makes) to go at slight angle through the bushing when the back is not parallel. All you need is contact between post and leading edge of the bushing when tuners are installed.
I've seen makers install bushings square to the rear but that either leaves gap under the bushing lip or some of them countersink the bushing into the front which looks awkward (to me) and the bushing edge can dig into finish after several years of use.
I don't like specialized stepped drills or such devices as they cost a lot and standard tooling offers more freedom...

[Ivan Kelsall]

You could use a tapered reamer if you reamed the hole from both sides so that the top edge of the hole on both sides was the exact bush diameter. However,that might leave the hole very slightly 'waisted' in the centre portion,that could easily be sanded away using a piece of rolled up sandpaper. Personally,i'd go for the ''purpose made'' bushing reamer & even that needs to be used VERY carefully as they're usually darned sharp. Lean one way or another,& you can still cut an oversized hole,
Ivan

[violinvic]

What is the point of the tapered headstock?? To me, it just creates a hassle.

[pops1]

What is the point of the tapered headstock?? To me, it just creates a hassle.

Looks nice, but yes creates a hassle.

[Rob Roy]

I use the LMI reamer for both bushings and end pins. Just make sure you buy end pins with a matching taper. LMI sells those too.

I too use the violin reamer for tuner bushings. I go slow and get it to the point that the bushing sits in the hole about 1 mm proud of the peg head face. Then when you press it in the rest of the way, the ridges on the bushing sleeve keep it seated. Once I found that point, I marked that depth on the reamer with a fine point sharpie to make the process more easily repeatable.