Upgrade time?

[OneChordTrick]

Thanks! your eBay skills are superior to mine! I couldn't work out how to do that. I'll see if I can get any movement on the price

[Davey]

What strings have you got on your existing Mandolin ?

[OneChordTrick]

What strings have you got on your existing Mandolin ?

They're EJ74's, new strings was the first thing that I did to improve the after I'd sorted the action and intonation.

[Mando Mort]

The most important thing is to go with your own ear and get the one you feel sounds best.

This post has been educational to me as a new owner of an Eastman 615. In reading through this post I have learned a lot about the various models and that overall people seem satisfied with the brand, particularly at the 500 level and above.

[Davey]

They're the best strings for the job in my opinion. They sound better after a few hours of play though. Have you listened to someone else playing your instrument ? They all sound better from the other side.

You could try a different kind of bridge if you have some free time. Bridges make a lot of difference in my opinion. My favourite has a bone top.

[OneChordTrick]

Thanks Davey, I've also tried a different bridge as well but it sounds as good as a $100 instrument ever will, time for me to move on. As we say over here any changes are simply "Putting lipstick on a bulldog".

[OneChordTrick]

Well I’m sitting on the train home, the Hathway is in its bag beside me

[Jill McAuley]

Congratulations! Let us know your thoughts on it once you've had a chance to get to know it a wee bit!

[Charlie Bernstein]

I may have misunderstood but I thought I read somewhere that the difference between the 3 and 5 series was the finish and fittings and that the woods were the same. Is that the case?

And I thought it was usually about where the neck joins the body - 3's at the twelfth fret and 5's at the fourteenth fret.

But I don't know anything, either.

[Charlie Bernstein]

I know the answer will be “upgrade” . . . .

You got that right!

[OneChordTrick]

A quick picture

IMG_2464 by paulfulford, on Flickr

[Cliff Seruntine]

I’m not a fan of taking baby steps when upgrading, it winds up costing so much generally. There may be inexpensive ways of improving your Ozark until.

I with Mandoplumb on this. I'm new to the mandolin, but not to music. I've been playing ever since I was a little kid, and I've built instruments and owned a music store. I learned a long time back that upgrading is a great sales pitch for musical instrument sellers, but for the buyer it's a sham. You'll lose money every time you sell an old instrument. If you keep the old instrument, you'll lose even more. Once you get past the cheap junk intro stuff (which I wouldn't even recommend to a complete novice--it'll be so much harder to discover your potential playing a difficult instrument that sounds bad), the differences between the moderate to very good stuff are marginal. For the most part, you can modify parts on good equipment to make it better. And then there is the simple fact that there are musicians and there are gear heads, and gear heads like to tinker and buy instruments and equipment. If you just want to sound good, get a decent instrument, set it up well, and focus on your playing skill. Do it from the outset and you'll be happier and save a pile of money. In fact, in many cases, the only really difference between an instrument and its more expensive kin is the setup and parts.

It's funny, only a couple days ago I was talking with a friend who is a pro musician. He was telling me that he is always amused by the people looking for the gadgets and upgrades that'll make them sound good when what they should really do is focus on their practicing. In that vein, have you ever watched a pro pick up a cheap instrument and make it sound awesome. 99.99% of good music is in the musician.

[Cliff Seruntine]

I completely missed that you had already bought your new instrument. Looks like a beauty. I really like the tailpiece. Do you know who made the tailpiece?

[Caleb]

A quick picture

IMG_2464 by paulfulford, on Flickr

Nice mandolin!

[OneChordTrick]

I completely missed that you had already bought your new instrument. Looks like a beauty. I really like the tailpiece. Do you know who made the tailpiece?

Well I only got it yesterday

Paul designed the tailpiece himself and I assume has them made for him. A bit more info here http://www.paulhathway.com/about-the-instuments/

[OneChordTrick]

I with Mandoplumb on this. I'm new to the mandolin, but not to music. I've been playing ever since I was a little kid, and I've built instruments and owned a music store. I learned a long time back that upgrading is a great sales pitch for musical instrument sellers, but for the buyer it's a sham. You'll lose money every time you sell an old instrument. If you keep the old instrument, you'll lose even more. Once you get past the cheap junk intro stuff (which I wouldn't even recommend to a complete novice--it'll be so much harder to discover your potential playing a difficult instrument that sounds bad), the differences between the moderate to very good stuff are marginal. For the most part, you can modify parts on good equipment to make it better. And then there is the simple fact that there are musicians and there are gear heads, and gear heads like to tinker and buy instruments and equipment. If you just want to sound good, get a decent instrument, set it up well, and focus on your playing skill. Do it from the outset and you'll be happier and save a pile of money. In fact, in many cases, the only really difference between an instrument and its more expensive kin is the setup and parts.

It's funny, only a couple days ago I was talking with a friend who is a pro musician. He was telling me that he is always amused by the people looking for the gadgets and upgrades that'll make them sound good when what they should really do is focus on their practicing. In that vein, have you ever watched a pro pick up a cheap instrument and make it sound awesome. 99.99% of good music is in the musician.

If I’d started with a decent instrument I doubt that I would have started at all. I fancied seeing if I enjoyed playing the mandolin so I bought the Ozark as a cheap way to start. Not sure I would have risked the cash on some of the models that are recommended as a starter.

The cheap starter does have a downside: the Ozark was badly set up and I gave up for a while, persevered with it then discovered this place and realised that set up was key, got a copy of Rob Meldrum’s eBook and finally made some progress. I think the Hathway will see me out a fair few years.

[Johnny60]

Congrats on the new Mandolin. I reckon a Hathway should give you a lot more in the tone department than an Ozark. Let us know what you think of it once you've had a chance to bond.

[derbex]

Well done, as I have said I am very happy with mine, and yours has a few upgrades (including that tailpiece) that have come along since mine was made.

FWIW I have Savarez Argentine strings on mine, having had Newtone's on it for quite a while, and I like the sound of those.

[OneChordTrick]

@Johnny60 I can already say that it sounds far nicer. I almost bought it the first day that I played it but common sense cut in and I slept on it for a while. Played it too much today and my fingers are sore.

@derbex according to his website the tailpiece is standard now. Just ordered a set of Newtones, how do the Savarez differ?

[derbex]

The Newtones are good, the Savarez are lighter gauge and seem brighter and louder, I will probably put a set of Newtones on next string change and see if I still think the same. I have been playing around with strings a bit, it's cheaper than buying a new mandolin every few months Picks/plectrums are even cheaper!

One thing the Savarez have shown up is my dodgy fretting, it's easier to push the pairs out of tune with each other.

[LadysSolo]

I with Mandoplumb on this. I'm new to the mandolin, but not to music. I've been playing ever since I was a little kid, and I've built instruments and owned a music store. I learned a long time back that upgrading is a great sales pitch for musical instrument sellers, but for the buyer it's a sham. You'll lose money every time you sell an old instrument. If you keep the old instrument, you'll lose even more. Once you get past the cheap junk intro stuff (which I wouldn't even recommend to a complete novice--it'll be so much harder to discover your potential playing a difficult instrument that sounds bad), the differences between the moderate to very good stuff are marginal. For the most part, you can modify parts on good equipment to make it better. And then there is the simple fact that there are musicians and there are gear heads, and gear heads like to tinker and buy instruments and equipment. If you just want to sound good, get a decent instrument, set it up well, and focus on your playing skill. Do it from the outset and you'll be happier and save a pile of money. In fact, in many cases, the only really difference between an instrument and its more expensive kin is the setup and parts.

It's funny, only a couple days ago I was talking with a friend who is a pro musician. He was telling me that he is always amused by the people looking for the gadgets and upgrades that'll make them sound good when what they should really do is focus on their practicing. In that vein, have you ever watched a pro pick up a cheap instrument and make it sound awesome. 99.99% of good music is in the musician.

Yes and no - I bought a "beginner mandolin" to see if I liked it (been playing music for 52 years on other instruments) but when I decided to upgrade I went from a The Loar LM220 to a Pava Player and a Weber Bitterroot and a Collings MT. I quickly decided I liked it and I would not be satisfied with something without excellent tone, so I skipped the in-between instruments and basically bought my lifetime keepers. So if you're saying don't go for "piddly" upgrades, I totally agree. If you're telling people to go for expensive from the outset, I disagree.

[Mandoplumb]

Yes and no - I bought a "beginner mandolin" to see if I liked it (been playing music for 52 years on other instruments) but when I decided to upgrade I went from a The Loar LM220 to a Pava Player and a Weber Bitterroot and a Collings MT. I quickly decided I liked it and I would not be satisfied with something without excellent tone, so I skipped the in-between instruments and basically bought my lifetime keepers. So if you're saying don't go for "piddly" upgrades, I totally agree. If you're telling people to go for expensive from the outset, I disagree.

That's exactly what I was recommending, although the OP had bought the upgrade and I hope he enjoys it. My point was make do with what you have until you can afford a real upgrade, lateral moves just cost you money that you could be saving and using to buy that top of the line upgrade.

[Cliff Seruntine]

So if you're saying don't go for "piddly" upgrades, I totally agree. If you're telling people to go for expensive from the outset, I disagree.

What I mean is it's best to get at least a decent instrument from the outset. In the mando world, one doesn't have to spend a fortune to get a decent instrument. A cheapo will likely lead to a lot of frustration but a good instrument from the outset will be a joy to play and one might upgrade its components so well that there never needs to be an "upgrade". If one does choose to upgrade an instrument, then save up and get a really good upgrade. It'll save a lot of money in the long run.

Though, and I am saying this as a former musical instrument store owner, spending more does not always equal better. I've bought plenty of violins and reconditioned them and ended up with much superior instruments. The real art in buying a good instrument is in knowing what it is you are holding. You never know, you might just pick up a "starter" instrument that was crafted by a brilliant young craftsman that has the quality of a much higher grade instrument.

[OneChordTrick]

And I thought it was usually about where the neck joins the body - 3's at the twelfth fret and 5's at the fourteenth fret.

But I don't know anything, either.

I think that’s the difference between f and oval holes. On the A style oval hole (x04) it joins at the 12th fret on the f hole (x05) at the 14th. Can’t speak for the F style as I’ve probably already spent too much time “geeking out” on mandolin specs.

[OneChordTrick]

That's exactly what I was recommending, although the OP had bought the upgrade and I hope he enjoys it. My point was make do with what you have until you can afford a real upgrade, lateral moves just cost you money that you could be saving and using to buy that top of the line upgrade.

For me this is the “real upgrade”, hand made by a local luthier, can’t see myself changing soon. Certainly haven’t made a lateral move!

For a beginner the ideal situation would be to buy or rent a decent instrument before committing but that’s not always possible. Here in the UK stores that hold a stock of mandolins are few and far between and whilst most will order one in they don’t have any expertise to be able to recommend an instrument. Plus over here they seem to be at least 30% more expensive than in the US. and because they’re not that popular they rarely appear in thrift stores.