Glueing back small piece of binding

[mandrian]

Hi,

A small piece of binding fell off. See picture. Just fell off, cannot think of any reason why.



Anyway I presume I just glue it back in. What type of glue would be best to use?

I have;

1. Titebond original wood glue.
2. UHU super glue ultra fast. Says it glues wood and plastics, but then says not for PE/PP?
3. Evo-stik Control two part with resin and hardener to be mixed equally. I believe it's typically for larger jobs where adjustment can be made for up to 2 hours.

I was thinking 2, but did not like the comment about not for PE/PP.

Can any expert provide guidance.

Thanks,

Regards,

[sunburst]

What you have missing is called a "corner protector" or a point, and it might be made from any of several different materials.
Superglue is a good choice for any of the common corner protector materials, but it is also a good choice for ruining the finish, so some foolproof method of keeping the CA off of the finish is important, and some method of clamping, at least lightly, must be devised. I don't like the "super fast" idea very well. It can take some time to accurately position the point. Not a long time, but when superfast superglue grabs, and we're not where we want to be... that's not good.
Looks like the point was dovetailed into the binding, and if so, and the fit is good, sliding the dovetail in will lightly clamp it in place. If the fit is not good, it could possibly be improved by adding a shim of like material.

[mandrian]

Hi John,

Thanks for your help. I had a look and I'm pretty sure that the corner protector is bone.

Best Regards,

[multidon]

If you use a high viscosity type of superglue, the "gel" type, you will gain two advantages, one is that it will stay where you put it better and the other is increased working time. I would not apply it directly from the tube, but squeeze some out into a bottle cap and then carefully apply it with a toothpick. It takes a couple minutes for that type of superglue to set past the point of no return. You could clamp it with a a piece of low tack masking tape. Alternatively you could use Duco cement and it would work well. Apply it using the same method. Only use a small amount of either, you don't want to deal with any squeeze out.

By the way, the comment on superglue refers to polyethelene and polypropylene. I have never heard of either material being used for binding. Polyethylene is used for Clorox bottles and polypropylene for marine rope.

But whatever else you do, please don't use the water thin superglue. You will mess up that beautiful finish for sure. I had to learn that lesson the hard way.

[Dale Ludewig]

I would use Titebond or Elmers white glue. It should bond pretty well, gives you plenty of working time, the dovetailing should clamp it up adequately, and if you wipe it off the finish while it's still wet the finish won't be harmed. I wouldn't use superglue to do this, as John said, if I could help it.

[fscotte]

There are so many new wood glues out nowadays I'm tempted to try them. Some advertise full set in 30 minutes. Would make mando building go alot quicker for sure.

[Oliver A.]

Superglue is a good choice for any of the common corner protector materials, but it is also a good choice for ruining the finish, so some foolproof method of keeping the CA off of the finish is important, and some method of clamping, at least lightly, must be devised. I don't like the "super fast" idea very well. It can take some time to accurately position the point. Not a long time, but when superfast superglue grabs, and we're not where we want to be... that's not good.
.

I agree with John. Use masking tape (I prefer the Blue medium tack stuff) to mask off the mandolin body point right up to, but not beyond the edge where the point protector was (and will be). Then mask out even further than you think any glue would ever reach. ie; a few inches down the sides and some on the top and back around the body point. As has been mentioned, do not use super thin super glue. Use instead some of the medium or even heavy stuff. (available at StewMac, Lee Valley etc.) Apply the glue with an aplicator such as a flat toothpick or something similar (don't over do it, just a thin film) then slide the point in (correct way around) Quickly place a piece of masking tape over the point then gently yet firmly, stretch the tape down over the point and adhere it to the body to act as a clamp. Light pressure is all that you need.

Before applying your glue, do a dry run of your intended procedure to iron out any flaws in your approach and for practice.

By what I can see, that mandolin looks very well made so take your time to get the proper materials at hand and the repair can come out invisible.

[mandrian]

Hi,

Thanks for all the advice. Went the Titebond route thinking it was the least risk alternative in terms screwing up the finish. Seems pretty clean and will see how it holds. As I just play it in the house at least I can't lose the corner protector if it falls out again.

Best Regards

[Oliver A.]

Congrats! It looks good in the photo. If the point protector material is bone, and it looks quite likely from the pic., Titebond should hold it very well to the wood depending on what the original glue was. The bone to ivoroid binding, not so much. The dovetail of the point looks to fit very nice so the poor bond there will probably not be an issue.
The Titebond definitely was a good choice to avoid possible finish damage but if it does fail, you are probably looking at the delicate task of filing/scraping off the old glue to get a good bond on the subsequent repair. Let's hope it holds. I think there is a good chance that it will, especially since you mainly play it around the house.

For my curiosity, could you tell me what make of mandolin it is?