Are you using steel or nylgut strings? Plastic head or skin?
I'm not going to claim my banjo stays 100% in tune after retuning. It is a banjo, after all.
No instrument can get retuned and then be 100% stable without any settling. I'm always twiddling with the tuning, even when I'm staying in the same tuning all night. But the banjo is much more forgiving than mandolin tuning - I don't have to worry about unisons being slightly off in each course of strings. When I retune my banjo, though, it's usually only one or two strings that get retuned. So all I have to do is tweak the others as they go sharp/flat from the retuning of the other strings. With good quality planetary geared tuners, it's a piece of cake.
Going sharp when using a capo is a struggle that a lot of people deal with, but I've found that it is minimized by first having a very low action setup so there's less distance the strings have to bend to be fretted. Second, use a quality adjustable capo (I use both a
Shubb and a D'Addario
Planet Waves capo), and adjust it as lightly as it can go without any buzzing. And I make sure to clamp the capo just behind the fret, not midway between frets. There really shouldn't be anything about capoing that causes the strings to go any sharper than they would when you fret them during normal play. All the same rules apply: minimal pressure, capo location, etc.
Spiking the 5th string is a different story, though. I do have to run it down and then come back up to pitch when I spike it. There's no getting around it. I've tried various 5th string capos and don't care for them as much. Spikes are simple, and it literally only takes about 3 seconds to spike a string and adjust the pitch.
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