Help I have a mandola

[Mandoplumb]

I received my new mandola today. It is a Washburn ( I know) solid wood, carved, A style, blemished (so the price was down there where I could afford it). I've played mandolin for 50+ years and own three excellent mandolins plus several so-so ones. I have wanted to fool with a mandola for some time but couldn't justify what they cost ( I don't like the sound of flat tops, too simple for my taste) this was the first carved top I've seen under $1000, so I bought it. The problem? It is not playable,I knew it would need a set up but that should be no problem, I've set up dozens of mandolins, this is just a long neck mandolin, right? Well I don't know, the neck appears to be straight, the tuners a little tight, the relief of the neck not bad, nothing unexpected until I tried to set intonation. If I get A and C strings close D and G are way off. Is the compensation radically different than a mandolin and is this a mandolin bridge. If so can I buy a mandola compensated bridge and where, or do I have to figure out the set backs and make my own. I thought I'd be playing the thing tonite but this problem is driving me crazy. Any advice on this problem and anything else that is going to be different from a mandolin set up is appreciated.

[Milky2390]

I recently set up a Washburn mandola for my cousin. The bridge that came with it was a mandolin bridge rather than a mandola bridge that would be compensated for 3 courses of wound strings and 1 solid. I fit a Cumberland Acoustics mandola bridge and set it up with a new set of strings. Bulk singles I had basically the same gauges as Daddario EJ72. Plays and sounds OK.

[Beanzy]

Normally a mandola bridge would be just a grown up version of a mandolin bridge; I wonder if the bridge was fitted reversed?

[EdHanrahan]

Normally a mandola bridge would be just a grown up version of a mandolin bridge ...

Not really. Mandolin strings sets normally have two wound and two plain courses, while mandolas have three wound and only one plain course. That makes all the difference in compensation because the "zig in the zag" must happen between the 1st and 2nd pairs, rather than between the 2nd and 3rd on a mandolin. It still happens between the D and A courses, but they're moved over one string on mandola, where the bridge really should have a different compensation offset pattern than a mandolin bridge.

Looking at a mandolin sitting on its tailpiece, I'd describe the bridge's string lengths as, roughly, "short, long, short, long" for the G thru E courses, whereas a mandola should look like "short, medium, long, medium" for the C thru A courses. Hope this helps!

[Tobin]

Looking at a mandolin sitting on its tailpiece, I'd describe the bridge's string lengths as, roughly, "short, long, short, long" for the G thru E courses, whereas a mandola should look like "short, medium, long, medium" for the C thru A courses.

Just out of curiosity, I looked at both my mandola bridges to see if their compensation were as you describe. And to be honest, I'm not sure there's a hard and fast rule on mandola compensation. They seem to be all over the map.

My 1917 Gibson H4 is compensated almost backwards to what you describe. From C to A, it goes: long, medium, short, long.





My Weber Bitterroot mandola is sort of sawtoothed, and I can't discern any real string length changes between the courses. It seems to play fine, though.





At any rate, I think it's obvious that the OP's mandola is going to need some serious setup attention all around. And I wouldn't necessarily say that setting intonation on the outside strings is the best way. It may be better to set it on the G and A courses, or the C and D courses. It's always a compromise anyway, but you have to find the right combination when setting intonation.

[EdHanrahan]

... the bridge's string lengths as, roughly, "short, long, short, long" for the G thru E courses, whereas a mandola should look like "short, medium, long, medium" for the C thru A courses.

NO, NO, NO!! Sorry about that... Should have know to double check when posting at 2AM.

While the logic of where the zig appears is (I still think!) correct, my sequence of lengths is indeed backward: Within the groupings of both wound and unwound strings, each higher string is normally slightly shorter than its bass neighbor, while the lowest unwound string is normally longer than its bass/wound neighbor.

I'll shut up now!

[jazzjune18]

I've got the same problem with the same mandola. Couldn't get the intonation right at all. (And like the OP I have set up many mandolins correctly) Currently in my closet.

[jazzjune18]

Anyone suggest a cheaper mandola bridge than the Cumberland (I have, and like cumberlands, but don't want to spend the money on the mandola)?

[Mandoplumb]

What EdHanrahan said makes sense after his correction but that is not what is on this Washburn. I too hate to put a pro bridge on a entry level instrument but I have been playing too long to accept this bad intonation. I know you have to compromise when setting intonation but this thing is 1/2 a fret or better off. I can't compromise that to anybodies satisfaction unless they are totally tone deaf. Jazzjune18 if I find a bridge that works I'll let you know, but I may have to make one.

[JeffD]

I too hate to put a pro bridge on a entry level instrument but I have been playing too long to accept this bad intonation....

Yea, but an extra pro bridge may come handy when you eventually upgrade from that mandola.

[jazzjune18]

Very true mandoplum and Jeff. I'll quote y'all to my wife!

[jazzjune18]

http://www.alulu-ukulele.com/index.p...product_id=243. Here is one. But truthfully there is no way of knowing from the description of it is actually a mandola bridge or just mandolin.

[funkycarnivore]

I think the thread title is kind of hilarious.

[lenf12]

Here's a pic of the bridge on my Duff H-5 mandola. The intonation is spot on.



Len B.
Clearwater, FL

[pops1]

If you want to intonate the bridge it came with you can set the closest and carve the rest, or if you have to glue a piece of ebony to the bridge to change where the string sets. It will work for a long time and sound just fine. That way you get to hear and play this with no cost outlay. Just make sure each of the gluing surfaces are flat so you get a good joint. If you have to glue a couple so be it. You could also make a new one, I have done that many times, you are only doing the saddle and you can use the original to drill the holes, it's not that hard, just takes a couple hours.

[Mandoplumb]

Pops1 I'm currently in the process of making a new saddle, I got the holes wrong in the first one but I enlarged them and cut the offsets almost like lenf12 picture after reading EdHanran's correction post I strung it up with one of each pair of strings and intonation was much better. G string notes slighty sharp but I'll correct that on second attempt and try to get the holes right I thank y'all for your help, I can't get over the unlimited knowledge on this form. What I don't understand is why a company that's been around as long as Washburn didn't use the correct bridge to start with. Maybe they should join MC and educate themselves. Thanks again gang.

[Pete Braccio]

I've got one of these Washburns. Here is the post where I went over the items that I had to fix in order to make it playable:

http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...shburn+mandola

Pete

[Pasha Alden]

Always something to learn from interesting thread, thanks all.

[bratsche]

Not really. Mandolin strings sets normally have two wound and two plain courses, while mandolas have three wound and only one plain course. That makes all the difference in compensation because the "zig in the zag" must happen between the 1st and 2nd pairs, rather than between the 2nd and 3rd on a mandolin. It still happens between the D and A courses, but they're moved over one string on mandola, where the bridge really should have a different compensation offset pattern than a mandolin bridge.

The exception would be when all courses of your mandola strings are wound - then, a "mandolin-shaped" mandola bridge will be a lot more in tune than one designed for a single non-wound course. ;-)

bratsche

[lenf12]

The exception would be when all courses of your mandola strings are wound - then, a "mandolin-shaped" mandola bridge will be a lot more in tune than one designed for a single non-wound course. ;-) bratsche

I'm guilty as charged. I use D'Addario EFT-76 strings so my A course is wound as well. Probably obvious from the pic. Sounds good to me.

Len B.
Clearwater, FL

[lenf12]

Unnecessary post. Sorry

Len B.
Clearwater, FL