Too Good For Beginner Mando?

[Integritus]

Hola folk. I'm looking at learning to play the mando. I'm basically stranded for the next 2-5 years because of work and don't have access to a teacher or a music store. I figured rather than go stir crazy watching Netflix, I'd learn a new instrument. It will literally be my first string instrument. Anyhoo, a friend of mine in CT recommended I look at Kentucky Mandos and after looking around I was deciding between the KM-805 and KM-1500 but I wonder if these are too much for someone to be learning on? I'll mostly be playing by myself but maybe once a month play with some other folk. I'm looking to play mostly bluegrass. Do y'all think these would be too much for beginner instruments? Thanks!

[allenhopkins]

"Too good/too much" in what sense? They'll sound too good, be too easy to play, look too nice? Heck, if you can afford a quality mandolin to learn on, why not? Learning to drive, you can have a Lexus or a Yugo; the skills needed are pretty much the same (well, perhaps the Yugo would need more skill...).

Most mandolin players learn on inexpensive instruments, but not because they're somehow "better" to learn on. Beginners often get cheap instruments because they're young and don't have the price of a KM-805, or because they're not sure if they're going to stick to the mandolin, so they want to limit their financial commitment.

As a result, some beginners get discouraged by coping with "inferior" mandolins. Perhaps they would have progressed if they'd had instruments of the quality you're considering.

I was lucky; my grandfather's attic yielded a 'teens Gibson A-1 for me to learn on. But if you can afford a good instrument, and the Kentucky mandolins appeal to you, no reason to buy a cheaper one. Only drawback is, you won't be able to say, "I can't learn to play on this lousy instrument" -- one excuse pre-empted.

[ollaimh]

a great sounding instrument will inspire you to play more. go for it.

[Willie Poole]

Since you are undecided I would split the difference and go for an A model Ky. like the KM-900 or KM-950, great mandolins for the price...

Willie

[9lbShellhamer]

I'd go for a Kentucky KM950. GREAT to learn on!

[Br1ck]

There is never a reason to buy a much cheaper instrument of any kind than you can afford. The world is full of failed players whose parents bought them the cheapest starter instrument they could.

You don't have to be a great fisherman to have a good fly rod, the best golfer to have the best clubs, or an accomplished player to have a nice mandolin. If you like the way an F type looks, buy an F type. If you like fancy inlay, go for it. I can promise you if you pop the case lid to look at your pretty mandolin, you'll pick it up and play it.

The one thing you HAVE to do is have it set up properly, which all the good online stores are doing now.

[Northwest Steve]

950 would be a good start if you don't mind an A style mandolin. If you want an F5 (scroll) style I would look at the Kentucky 105. they can be great. I have owned/played better mandolins than my ability. But they play well and have all sounded good to great. As mentioned setup is really important. You will get recommendations in this range for Collings MT as well.

Once you start getting in the $2000 range you really have some great options. So in the $2000 to $2500 range you can find used Flatirons, Pava, Northfield, Collings MT2 and several other mandolins. All will very but you could find a lifetime mandolin in that group. There is a June F5 that just showed up in the classified. I have not played one of his but he gets good reviews. that one has a set of Waverly tuners which are $500 and a James tailpiece which is $150 all in $2200 mandolin.

Mandolessons.com is a great resource and you could always take skype lessons. Easier to start off on the right path than to undo bad habits.
Good luck in the search, there are many good mandolins out there.

[lenf12]

[QUOTE=Northwest Steve;1503918 If you want an F5 (scroll) style I would look at the Kentucky 105. they can be great. .[/QUOTE]

Kentucky KM-1050 wide neck perhaps?

Len B.
Clearwater, FL

[dhergert]

Learning an instrument is a challenge anyway. Spend as much as you can justify spending to get a high quality mando.

Also, two years is a long time with learning an instrument; if you work consistently and diligently with it you'll be pretty accomplished at the end of that time. So having a pro or near-pro quality mando at the end of your two years will be just about right.

Btw, don't forget to get extra strings and extra picks, a proper mando strap and a good case to keep it all safe in.

Have a great time learning! This is the place to come if you have questions.

-- Don

[Mandoplumb]

Why is everyone recommending 950 and1050 how bout 900 and 1000?

[cbakewell]

Whichever model you go for, I would recommend getting a good secondhand one from someone who you know will/has set it up well.

If you decide it isn't for you, will get most of your money back when you sell.

[Gary Leonard]

Buy the best you can justify and afford. Try before you buy, and if you don't know how to play, simply strum a two finger open chord like G:

http://www.mandolincafe.com/cgi-bin/.../ch.pl?chord=G

Hopefully you will find one that will speak to you.

If you can't try it, make sure you buy from a reputable dealer that does a good setup. Make sure you tell them you are a beginner, and want the action set lower. Last thing you want is an instrument that is hard to play.

[Northwest Steve]

Kentucky KM-1050 wide neck perhaps?

Len B.
Clearwater, FL

Yes 1050, personally I would not spend the extra $ to get the 1500.

[Northwest Steve]

Why is everyone recommending 950 and1050 how bout 900 and 1000?

I believe I read that the body was not as deep on the 900/1000 as the 950/1050 when they came out? Not sure if that was correct but I believe that is not longer the case. The 900/1000 has a 1 1/16" neck, a flat fretboard and thin vintage frets. The 950/1050 has 1 1/8" nut, radius fretboard and large frets. Many players like the wider nut and radius fretboard and some prefer the larger fret wire.
I have owned and played other 1050's and they were all excellent playing mandolins. I currently owned a 950 as a back up and it is also very good, not quite equal to my 1050 but still very good. I currently have a 900 the setup was I was really unable to give it it's fair comparison. It is currently in the getting a proper setup. I did not spend much time with it, but I did not care much for the small fret wire. I will give it another go when I get it back.

[EdHanrahan]

... Do y'all think these would be too much for beginner instruments?

Learning to drive on, say, a 427 Shelby Cobra would probably be "too much" for a beginner. Fortunately for us, instruments rarely accelerate away while the player futilely stabs for the brake vs. gas vs. clutch pedal!

[CES]

Not too much at all. I wish I'd had my Silverangel at the beginning!!

[Mandoplumb]

My point was that some of us like a flat board and small frets, the OP should be aware of the difference and chose the one he likes.

[Ivan Kelsall]

It's been said many times that the easiest instruments to learn on are 'the best'. Usually they're easier to play & sound good as well.
If you're not concerned over which style of mandolin to buy - A or F,then i'd go for a Kentucky KM 505. It's the 'little sister' to the more expensive KM900. I played one a few years ago & it sounded as though it should have been twice the cost. It would be a great ''beginner & beyond'' mandolin for a few years,
Ivan

[Al Trujillo]

I bought my first instrument of any type a little over a year ago. When shopping for my first I decided that I wanted to buy an instrument that helped me grow, but was good enough not to limit my growth (i.e. is the sound coming from it bad because I pretty much suck or is this the best this instrument will ever sound like?). Sure I wish could have bought a Nugget...but that was pretty unrealistic. I bought a Weber Gallatin A that has been a joy to hold and play. I know that it is a mandolin that'll do everything I ask it to do (within my own limitations). Maybe someday I'll take it to another level with a higher end instrument. If you're moving into a cave for two years, take the best mandolin you can afford with you. You'll come out the other end happy; and still wanting to play it every day!

[pops1]

Learning to drive on, say, a 427 Shelby Cobra would probably be "too much" for a beginner. Fortunately for us, instruments rarely accelerate away while the player futilely stabs for the brake vs. gas vs. clutch pedal!

I have always said you can't learn to drive at Indy with a Volkswagen.

[Timbofood]

Back when I sold instruments, I was always happy to see someone give themselves the break and not buy the cheapest thing on the wall as a first instrument. We set up every instrument that went out the door and gave anyone the best service we could. It was so nice when they came back for their second something, they knew we were not going to sell them something they didn't need!
It was good to know that some of these people ended up really enjoying making music.
My advice, get the instrument within your budget, invest in the proper set up or get Rob Meldrum's book and learn about set-up and start the journey!

[acousticphd]

year ago. When shopping for my first I decided that I wanted to buy an instrument that helped me grow, but was good enough not to limit my growth (i.e. is the sound coming from it bad because I pretty much suck or is this the best this instrument will ever sound like?). ...... I bought a Weber Gallatin A that has been a joy to hold and play. I know that it is a mandolin that'll do everything I ask it to do (within my own limitations).

This is great advice, that I would have benefitted from myself.

Choosing any of the higher- or highest-end Kentucky models (or others of comparable quality) will only benefit your development and improvement.
A lot of times the unspoken question may really be "is this too much to spend on my first instrument"? Again, the answer is definitely "no", if you are seriously interested and can afford that price level. You will always save $$ by choosing a comparably good A-style model, as well as a previously owned instrument.

During my first 1-1.5 yrs taking up mando, I bought a KM150S (it was fine), then a KM380S (clearly better). Both of these needed extensive set-up and adjustment. Next I got a lightly used Flatiron Performer A (clearly better yet), and soon gave away the 150S and sold the 380S. I would have spent less and been satisfied sooner if I had gotten the Flatiron (or Gallatin, for eg), to begin with, but that was part of the learning arc.

[Timbofood]

One observation, put a "so-so" instrument in the hands of a good player, it will help to prove the "Lee Trevino" theorem:
"It's not the arrow, it's the Indian." Buy the best thing you can afford get it set up properly and get going.

[pops1]

One observation, put a "so-so" instrument in the hands of a good player, it will help to prove the "Lee Trevino" theorem:
"It's not the arrow, it's the Indian." Buy the best thing you can afford get it set up properly and get going.

You are absolutely right, but how often would he play it??

[fatt-dad]

I'd get a new job and a mandolin. Really, a job that stranded me would not be using my talents. I'd never forgo my talents for 3 to 5 years for some job! I'd certainly have a mandolin though!

f-d