Better alternatives to Duco Cement...looking fopr new suggestions

**HoGo** · Jan-25-2017, 8:23am

Reviving this old thread...

Has anyone tried the new "60 second" Loctite CA?
That could be a bit stronger for celluloid than normal CA with which often the joint is weak because it sets before it eats into the surfaces and delaminates easily. Also slower curing time allows for tighter clamping and squeeze of extra glue so there won't be as visible glue lines...
I plan trying it for bindings for my next mandolins - I read somewhere that Ellis uses slower curing CA for binding but from one of the US manufacturers, not available here in EU...

here is link for the glue:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/ug_...ersal-Glue.htm

**fscotte** · Jan-25-2017, 10:09am

I've used Loctite CA for binding. It pulls the wood off if you try to separate the binding from the rim. Good enough for me.

**HoGo** · Jan-25-2017, 4:23pm

Originally Posted by fscotte

I've used Loctite CA for binding. It pulls the wood off if you try to separate the binding from the rim. Good enough for me.

I know that... had to do that twice when I failed to press the binding into notch enough and got thick ugly glue line...
Did you use the "60 second" variety or just ordinary Loctite? I've been using Loctite since I started as it is the only serious brand commonly available in most shops around but the new one that allows a minute time for repositioning caught my attention...

**pops1** · Jan-25-2017, 5:05pm

Gorilla glue has a CA that seems to work well, I admit I haven't tried it for bindings. It is in a much larger bottle than the contents and you have to shake it to mix the contents. I was skeptical when I bought it, it was all they had, but not only does it work well, it last longer. Much longer I think because it doesn't get hard in the bottle like other CA's I have used.

**fscotte** · Jan-25-2017, 6:15pm

I drench the rim channel with CA, so it doesn't dry as fast. I use the normal Loctite. I dont use the gel type because I want the glue to seep into the wood, makes a good bond and the CA melts the binding a bit. I only use celluloid.

**HoGo** · Jan-26-2017, 4:04am

Originally Posted by fscotte

I drench the rim channel with CA, so it doesn't dry as fast. I use the normal Loctite. I dont use the gel type because I want the glue to seep into the wood, makes a good bond and the CA melts the binding a bit. I only use celluloid.

How do you deal with staining areas contaminated with CA? They won't take stain like the rest... Most makers who use CA seal the channel with shellac to prevent deep penetration.
I prefer gel CA as it doesn't seep into spruce and holds more than adequately. Whenever I need to use thin CA (when I have tiny gap after scraping) I make sure I don't touch wood with the glue and apply minimal amount to plastic side of teh gap and wipe the outside immediately.

**fscotte** · Jan-26-2017, 5:05am

I've not really had an issue with stain over CA. I've used it to seal cracks as well and it stained fine. I always sand over the CA as well so maybe that helps? I had a rim that experinced an outside crack thanks to an overly aggressive gouge, sealed it with CA, sanded over, stained, and I couldn't see the crack at all afterwards. It seems I have more trouble with the LMII glue taking stain. It's nice they made it where you can see it with a black light now.

The only thing I caution with CA and celluloid binding is that too much seems to "harm" the binding more than bonding it, if that makes sense. Maybe the same holds true with acetone, but the binding edge can get real mushy and ruin your edgeline.

**Darryl Wolfe** · Jan-27-2017, 2:07pm

Originally Posted by fscotte

The only thing I caution with CA and celluloid binding is that too much seems to "harm" the binding more than bonding it, if that makes sense. Maybe the same holds true with acetone, but the binding edge can get real mushy and ruin your edgeline.

Fully agree....part of why I started this thread and do not use it. However, my application is different. I am trying to duplicate originals, not make the most humanly perfect guard available

I might would actually use CA, but I have the mudding problem, or the basic CA problem where it simply wont dry fast enough

I do use CA on the back strip and for the mounting block. I often run into problems with it not curing right. But using Duco on the backstrip promotes warp and celluloid cancer I have found

**HoGo** · Jan-27-2017, 6:05pm

Darryl, have you tried simple nitro lacquer as glue? The glue residue on backside of F-4 pickguard of mandolin I recently repaired looked like a stroke with brush (like nail polish) and it was nice levelled thin layer that was likely transparent, not reddish as would be the case with tortoise celluloid dissolved in acetone.

**Darryl Wolfe** · Jan-29-2017, 1:51pm

Originally Posted by HoGo

Darryl, have you tried simple nitro lacquer as glue? The glue residue on backside of F-4 pickguard of mandolin I recently repaired looked like a stroke with brush (like nail polish) and it was nice levelled thin layer that was likely transparent, not reddish as would be the case with tortoise celluloid dissolved in acetone.

I have noticed this too. I always thought is was a stroke of acetone, but yes, there is body to it

As a matter of fact, I've been having trouble gluing one certain plastic block type to my guards with CA

Ive got two different plastic that I have made my blocks from...one is constant mush trouble