Pulled the trigger on one. Love it. Nice tone. Solid top. Solid wood body. Mahogany. Well made and cheap.
Might change the bridge and put a pickup on. But I'll see.
Can't wait to get it home.
Pulled the trigger on one. Love it. Nice tone. Solid top. Solid wood body. Mahogany. Well made and cheap.
Might change the bridge and put a pickup on. But I'll see.
Can't wait to get it home.
JBovier ELS; Epiphone MM-50 VN; Epiphone MM-40L; Gretsch New Yorker G9310; Washburn M1SDLB;
Fender Nashville Deluxe Telecaster; Squier Modified Vintage Cabronita Telecaster; Gretsch 5420T; Fender Tim Armstrong Hellcat: Washburn Banjo B9; Ibanez RB 5string; Ibanez RB 4 string bass
Pedalboard for ELS: Morley Cry baby Miniwah - Tuner - EHX Soul Food Overdrive - EHX Memory Toy analog Delay
Fender Blues Jr Tweed; Fender Greta;
I also have one and like the sound.
The finish on mine is actually pretty bad. The fit is good for the price range but the finish leaves a lot to be desired. There are stain smears and dip dots.
I have seen ones better finished.
"we should restore the practice of dueling. It might improve manners around here." -Edward Abbey
I also play a New Yorker. Great entry level model that sounded great after a proper setup. I'm due for something a bit better as my playing ability increased a lot faster then I had anticipated (mando fever), but my couch needs replacing and my computer is on its way out so my Gretsch will keep me content for a while longer. I'm lucky in that mine doesn't have cosmetic issues.
My first mandolin was a Gretsch New Yorker.
I was pretty happy with it compared to the other cheap mandolins at GC, so it was good as an instrument to help me decide if I wanted to take mandolin on for real.
It is a little "boxy" in sound, but sounds good enough and plays good enough to start.
After I got my J Bovier I just left the Gretsch at work as a noodle around mandolin.
I also take it with me if I have to go to a trade show for a few days.
I don't want to take a nice mandolin as I don't know where I will be, and I don't really worry about the Gretsch.
It seems very sturdy.
I think I paid about $180, and in that context it is a good little mandolin to start on.
9310 or 9311? One is plain, the other has white binding. I've played a 9311 as well as the spruce top 9320 at the local music store (sadly, these are the only two mandolins carried at the local music store).
My thoughts were that the mahogany Gretsch had much better sound and feel for considerably less pennies than the Washburn cheapo I currently own. I might be tempted to get it, since it may be awhile before I can afford a $1K mandolin.
WWW.THEAMATEURMANDOLINIST.COM
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"Life is short. Play hard." - AlanN
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HEY! The Cafe has Social Groups, check 'em out. I'm in these groups:
Newbies Social Group | The Song-A-Week Social
The Woodshed Study Group | Blues Mando
- Advice For Mandolin Beginners
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JBovier ELS; Epiphone MM-50 VN; Epiphone MM-40L; Gretsch New Yorker G9310; Washburn M1SDLB;
Fender Nashville Deluxe Telecaster; Squier Modified Vintage Cabronita Telecaster; Gretsch 5420T; Fender Tim Armstrong Hellcat: Washburn Banjo B9; Ibanez RB 5string; Ibanez RB 4 string bass
Pedalboard for ELS: Morley Cry baby Miniwah - Tuner - EHX Soul Food Overdrive - EHX Memory Toy analog Delay
Fender Blues Jr Tweed; Fender Greta;
+1 for the NYer. I have a 9320, got her cheap and I love her to death. More than enough to keep me busy for a long time, while I save those pennies. Enjoy!
I have one. It's one of the earlier ones I bought (out of about 20 bought and sold in three years!) and still one of my favorites. Love the minimalist mahogany look. The only thing I did was change the torture-and-mando-smashing-tantrum-inducing tailpiece with a Golden Age relic brass, put on Golden Age relic brass tuners (though the originals were fine) and a bone saddle bridge (no discernible effect, but looks nice.)
This thread made me change the strings on my New Yorker, as it has been a while.
Doing that reminded me of the one thing I really hate about it.
The tailpiece is a hideous nightmare. Hate it.
It is almost as if they designed it to make changing strings more difficult.
It makes it easier if you bend the loop in several places and use a capo to keep it tight, but it is still a huge chore.
i have no idea why they thought it was a good design.
Mandolins: Northfield 5-Bar Artist Model "Old Dog", J Bovier F5 Special, Gibson A-00 (1940)
Fiddles: 1920s Strad copy, 1930s Strad copy, Liu Xi T20, Liu Xi T19+ Dark.
Guitars: Taylor 514c (1995), Gibson Southern Jumbo (1940s), Gibson L-48 (1940s), Les Paul Custom (1978), Fender Strat (Black/RWFB) (1984), Fender Strat (Candy Apple Red/MFB) (1985).
Sitars: Hiren Roy KP (1980s), Naskar (1970s), Naskar (1960s).
Misc: 8 Course Lute (L.K.Brown)
Congrats David! Enjoy your new mandolin. Sounds like a keeper.
2014 BRW F5 #114
2022 Kentucky KM 950 Master Model
YouTube Original Recording of My composition "Closer Walk"
Yep, tried those methods too. Holding one end of the string to the neck with a capo while you start the peg winding is something that apparently players have been doing for a long time on lots of instruments. However, on the other end, bending the loop end at a 90 degree angle to get it under the cloud more often than not (for me) resulted in the string breaking right there (esp. with the E strings) increasing the frustration factor.
Can anybody post a picture illustrating this odious tailpiece design?
WWW.THEAMATEURMANDOLINIST.COM
----------------------------------
"Life is short. Play hard." - AlanN
----------------------------------
HEY! The Cafe has Social Groups, check 'em out. I'm in these groups:
Newbies Social Group | The Song-A-Week Social
The Woodshed Study Group | Blues Mando
- Advice For Mandolin Beginners
- YouTube Stuff
Here are some photos of the Tailpiece of Doom.
It doesn't look as bad as it is in function.
The problem is that it is one piece, and that the cloud top part doesn't come off.
You have to thread the string from the back.
When the string doesn't hold on the tiny little prongs, the string shoots through to the bridge side, and you have to thread it through from the back again, and that happens several times per string during installation.
There are tricks to help, but it is still the worst tailpiece I have ever had the misfortune to deal with.
I like my New Yorker, but absolutely HATE this stupid tailpiece design.
Mandolins: Northfield 5-Bar Artist Model "Old Dog", J Bovier F5 Special, Gibson A-00 (1940)
Fiddles: 1920s Strad copy, 1930s Strad copy, Liu Xi T20, Liu Xi T19+ Dark.
Guitars: Taylor 514c (1995), Gibson Southern Jumbo (1940s), Gibson L-48 (1940s), Les Paul Custom (1978), Fender Strat (Black/RWFB) (1984), Fender Strat (Candy Apple Red/MFB) (1985).
Sitars: Hiren Roy KP (1980s), Naskar (1970s), Naskar (1960s).
Misc: 8 Course Lute (L.K.Brown)
It looks like maybe the tailpiece is hinged? Does flipping it up help?
NMD = No Money Down?
"The paths of experimentation twist and turn through mountains of miscalculations, and often lose themselves in error and darkness!"
--Leslie Daniel, "The Brain That Wouldn't Die."
Some tunes: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCa1...SV2qtug/videos
Mandolins: Northfield 5-Bar Artist Model "Old Dog", J Bovier F5 Special, Gibson A-00 (1940)
Fiddles: 1920s Strad copy, 1930s Strad copy, Liu Xi T20, Liu Xi T19+ Dark.
Guitars: Taylor 514c (1995), Gibson Southern Jumbo (1940s), Gibson L-48 (1940s), Les Paul Custom (1978), Fender Strat (Black/RWFB) (1984), Fender Strat (Candy Apple Red/MFB) (1985).
Sitars: Hiren Roy KP (1980s), Naskar (1970s), Naskar (1960s).
Misc: 8 Course Lute (L.K.Brown)
Yeah, I can see that. Looks like a third-party tailpiece would have to be added to the cost of these little cheapies. I have to repeat, the one I played at the local music store sounded and felt surprisingly good for the price.
WWW.THEAMATEURMANDOLINIST.COM
----------------------------------
"Life is short. Play hard." - AlanN
----------------------------------
HEY! The Cafe has Social Groups, check 'em out. I'm in these groups:
Newbies Social Group | The Song-A-Week Social
The Woodshed Study Group | Blues Mando
- Advice For Mandolin Beginners
- YouTube Stuff
That tail piece is hell to restring!
I ordered an eBay one with a removable cover, but the quality was disappointing. Thin metal...poor plating.
But yes.. The NewYorker needs a better tailpiece, something a bit more versatile that can also take ball-end would be nice.
Seagull S6 Cedar (1998)
Seagull Amber Trail CW Mini-Jumbo (2013, because rosette is decal, not inlay)
Seagull Coastline Cedar 12 (2015)
Ibanez Artwood Parlour 2 AVN3-NT (2015)
Martin GPCPA5K Stika Spruce/Koa HDL/Birch Statabond (2015)
Gretsch Mahogany Boxcar Round-Neck Resonator (2015)
Gretsch Mahogany New Yorker Supreme Mandolin (2015)
Fender FB-54 Mahogany Resonator 5-String Banjo (2015)
Seagull S8 Mandolin Natural (2016)
Alvarez ABT60 Baritone (2016)
Seagull S6 Cedar (1998)
Seagull Amber Trail CW Mini-Jumbo (2013, because rosette is decal, not inlay)
Seagull Coastline Cedar 12 (2015)
Ibanez Artwood Parlour 2 AVN3-NT (2015)
Martin GPCPA5K Stika Spruce/Koa HDL/Birch Statabond (2015)
Gretsch Mahogany Boxcar Round-Neck Resonator (2015)
Gretsch Mahogany New Yorker Supreme Mandolin (2015)
Fender FB-54 Mahogany Resonator 5-String Banjo (2015)
Seagull S8 Mandolin Natural (2016)
Alvarez ABT60 Baritone (2016)
Here it is?
JBovier ELS; Epiphone MM-50 VN; Epiphone MM-40L; Gretsch New Yorker G9310; Washburn M1SDLB;
Fender Nashville Deluxe Telecaster; Squier Modified Vintage Cabronita Telecaster; Gretsch 5420T; Fender Tim Armstrong Hellcat: Washburn Banjo B9; Ibanez RB 5string; Ibanez RB 4 string bass
Pedalboard for ELS: Morley Cry baby Miniwah - Tuner - EHX Soul Food Overdrive - EHX Memory Toy analog Delay
Fender Blues Jr Tweed; Fender Greta;
I bought one a while back and love it. The sound/price ratio is excellent. Regarding the tail piece, I had to glue a small piece of leather to where it comes on to the top-the felt that was there deteriorated very quickly and I snapped several e strings before I realized that they could not make that bend without some cushioning.
I have a Gretsch, I think it's a great mandolin.
Weber Black Ice F
Gretsch Vintage F Oval hole
Washburn A, Oval hole Mandola
Weber Black Ice F Octave Mandolin
I recently had to send my good mandolin to the shop, and since I had restrung my New Yorker, I kept it out for playing. It had not been played in a while so it still had that "tubby" sound. I left the Tonerite on it for about a week, and I have to say that it is a pretty great little mandolin for a couple hundred bucks. Beats the hell out of the mandolins they have at GC for under $500. The tonerite turned the sound much less tubby, and I was surprised by how loud it is. It actually has a decent roundness to the tone, and the chop is respectable. There is still a little bit of tubbiness, but what do you want for $200?!? The things I still don't like about it is that damn tailpiece, the neck is a bit on the thick side, and the flat fretboard is less friendly than my good mando's radius fretboard, but other than that it is a worthy beater to have around when the good mando is not there. I would definitely recommend this instrument to someone who just wants to get a cheap mando in order to see if they are really going to learn.
Mandolins: Northfield 5-Bar Artist Model "Old Dog", J Bovier F5 Special, Gibson A-00 (1940)
Fiddles: 1920s Strad copy, 1930s Strad copy, Liu Xi T20, Liu Xi T19+ Dark.
Guitars: Taylor 514c (1995), Gibson Southern Jumbo (1940s), Gibson L-48 (1940s), Les Paul Custom (1978), Fender Strat (Black/RWFB) (1984), Fender Strat (Candy Apple Red/MFB) (1985).
Sitars: Hiren Roy KP (1980s), Naskar (1970s), Naskar (1960s).
Misc: 8 Course Lute (L.K.Brown)
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