Tuners for Kentucky 150

[Frank T.]

I would like to upgrade the tuners on a Kentucky 150. Does anyone know of a better set that would fit right in? Let me know. Thanks.

[Petrus]

The reasonable options are Gotoh, Golden Age and Grover. Gotoh aren't much different from the original tuners. Golden Age tends to make more vintage styled finishes which may not be appropriate on a Kentucky. I recommend the Grovers, reasonably priced at $70 or so. I think you can get black or white buttons. Other options are much higher end (Waverlys run in the $400 range.) I'm getting another Rover RM-50 and will upgrade to Grovers.

http://www.elderly.com/accessories/i...id-buttons.htm

[chewbokitz]

I have a km150- What is the benefit of doing this ? Just the ability to stay tuned longer ? Or is it just aesthetics?

[Petrus]

Aesthetics, and aftermarket tuners (esp. the more costly ones) are better constructed. They may have a higher gear ratio which makes for easier and more precise tuning, or just have higher quality workmanship in general. Low-end instruments tend to skimp on the accessories like tuners, bridge and tailpiece. I think tuners and bridge make the most difference. A higher-quality ebony bridge fitted to the shape of your top will make a discernible difference. Tailpieces are probably the least significant upgrade, though some are a lot easier to use when it comes time to restring.

[lflngpicker]

I would think that the tuners Kentucky installs on the KM-150 would be of a good quality. A lot of times it is more about the installation of the strings, including making sure the strings are stretched properly in order to prevent slippage. Then, tuning accuracy is not just using a digital clip-on tuner, but there are relative pitch techniques, i.e.: fretting the 7th fret on the lower pitched string pair (course) and playing the string pair open immediately below the lower string you are fretting to make sure they are in unison (matching pitch). It is important to do this, and also to play a few chords to make sure the mandolin is fine tuned accurately.

Then, once the strings are properly tuned, tune during play between songs as needed and again before you store your mandolin. This helps the strings to develop a memory of the proper seating on the tuner, nut and bridge so that when you begin to play the next day and re-tune as you begin, your instrument will be in good tuning shape. I have had affordable Kentucky mandolins that I loved (KM 200s and KM650, for example) and the stock tuners on these mandolins were effective. It came down to doing the procedures I am describing above. Every player does these things in their own customary way, but are just as effective.

I am confident in Kentucky's products (I have also owned a KM1000) but if you are doing these or other similar installation and tuning techniques, and still want to upgrade the tuners, there are plenty of good reasons to do so. I certainly like to hot rod guitars and amplifiers, so I can understand someone doing it with a mandolin . Good luck!

[MikeEdgerton]

The KM-150 is a heck of a deal but they didn't go overboard on the tuners. If you're going to upgrade tuners you need to know three things. The first is the headstock style in this case the classic snakehead A style. The second is the spacing center to center on the tuner posts, probably .906" but you should check it, and the final is if the tuners are worm over or worm under. The post that the button is on is attached to a worm gear that will be positioned over or under the cog that is attached to the string post. If your originals are like the picture then they are worm over.

You can get up into the hundreds of dollars if you'd like or you can find some great deals on the more classic looking A style Gotoh tuners used on the higher versions of Kentucky models. The big difference will be thhat the higher Kentucky models use special sets with flat head screws as opposed to Phillips screws on the standard Gotoh tuners. You can also go with Grover, Schaller, Golden Age, etc. as long as they have the same measurements.

[lflngpicker]

Mike, You know your stuff... I appreciate the post. I hadn't known these factors of quality and technical issues. I went on and on about tuning. I so am glad you clarified. Thanks!

[Frank T.]

Thanks to all who took the time to reply. I was just looking to put on some better tuners. The present ones are not terrible but compared to my Tuners on My Collings MF there is a big difference. I actually love playing the KM 150 and thought it would make it a little more enjoyable if it stayed in tuner a little longer. I do all of the usual stuff, stretching strings, changing them regularly etc...but they go out more than they should.

[MikeEdgerton]

Post a picture of the tuners on your Collings.

The MF that is pictured on Collings site appears to have a set of Gotoh tuners. The A style mandolins appear to have Stewmac Golden Age tuners. Either way you can probably buy the same tuners for the Kentucky that are on the Collings.

[Petrus]

I'm interested in this topic lately because I am in the process of doing some upgrading on at least one instrument. Apparently there is a strictly finite number of tuner manufacturers out there (well, obviously, but I mean more so than there are mandolin manufacturers) so it would seem that many mandolin makers must source their tuners from one of the half-dozen or so of the ones mentioned. (There are also a few specialty makers, like the 40:1 gearless tuners by Steinberger, and those LSR tuners with the knobs, but iirc these are only for guitars.)

There's a question in there someplace but I think I lost it.

John Williams (the luthier) has an interesting little invention he calls the Quick Cinch that is supposed to help you avoid some common problems with string winding. I've never tried them but they might be worth a look. Anyone familiar with them?

http://jlwcustomart.com/quickcinch.html

[lflngpicker]

Petrus, That is an interesting thought-- how many makers are there, actually, for the many more brand names? Some are made by the same manufacturer is what I get from your post?

[jhowell]

Might also add Rubner to the usual list of suspects...

[mandroid]

double the cost of a KM 150 with those /^\

[Frank T.]

Her are KM 150 Tuners and MF. The MF say Elite on them.


I measure the plate on Km 150 to be 115 mm inches long and 25 mm from center of wheel to center of next wheel. Looking on Stew mac I dont see any tuners that fit that bill.

[MikeEdgerton]

Elites were made by Stewart McDonald. I believe they were replaced by the Golden Age tuners. They are here. As long as your current tuners are 23 mm from between post centers you should be fine.

[MikeEdgerton]

The posts should be 23mm between centers. That's how they are measured. Yours are worm over tuners.

[MikeEdgerton]

You may be out of luck here. Those look like Ping tuners. I just found two very non-standard measurements for their tuners. One was 15/16" (23.8mm). The other was less than 23 mm.

[Frank T.]

Thanks for taking the time, Mike.

[MikeEdgerton]

Actually I'm glad you took the time to ask. I'm actually pretty surprised to even see this.