Mandola action

[demotlj]

I bought a Trinity College mandola and in playing it I have noticed that the C and G strings require more pressure than I'm used to. (I have an Eastman Neapolitan mandolin as my primary instrument.) I bought the mandola online and it said it would be professionally setup before they sent it so I'm assuming the string tension is just a result of heavier gauge strings than I'm used to especially because the D and A strings feel fine. On the other hand, I don't want to find out later that it is the action and I've been abusing my fingers for nothing. Unfortunately I live an hour and a half from the nearest shop that does setup so I thought I'd ask your opinions before making the trip.

Is it normal for a mandola to be tougher on the fingers? Could it be a string issue? I like the warmer deeper sound and if heavier string pressure is required to get that, I'll just toughen up my fingers but as I said, why suffer unnecessarily?

Laurie

[fox]

Very differcult question without knowing the gauges, any garage or workshop or maybe a DIY friend will have callipers to measure the thickness though.
A lot of modern thinking uses an even pressure on all the strings, ie 20lb per string, but there are plenty of string sets that don't.

[acousticphd]

You're suffering unnecessarily. My mandola is easier, not harder to fret, compared to mandolin. Mandola string gauges are typically lighter than the corresponding course on the mandolin (Eg, medium gauge G string might typically be 0.040 for mandolin, vs. 0.035 for mandola).

I will bet that your action at the nut is considerably too high, which would be common. You are unlikely to have gotten much of a set-up, let alone a "pro set-up", from an online seller. A pro set-up involves filing and measuring. You most likely got a quick check for string buzz, and it was out the door. I have played a number of TC instruments in music stores and the setups were always poor, with high nut action a common feature.

Start by measuring the string action at the nut/first fret, referring to one of the many helpful online tutorials/videos that demonstrate how to do this. One method, that does not require measuring gauges, is to fret each string at the 3rd fret. Then tap the string directly over the 1st fret, sighting the clearance carefully - there should be just the slimmest margin of daylight between the string and the 1st fret - maybe half the thickness of mandolin E string.

With a tutorial, practice, and patience, adjusting nut action is not difficult, but it is important to have a set of files with rounded edges that will permit you to make slots at the right depth and shape.

[Ray(T)]

A simpler method is to try it with a capo on the first fret. If it's appreciably easier to play, then the nut is likely too high.

[Bernie Daniel]

You're suffering unnecessarily. My mandola is easier, not harder to fret, compared to mandolin. Mandola string gauges are typically lighter than the corresponding course on the mandolin (Eg, medium gauge G string might typically be 0.040 for mandolin, vs. 0.035 for mandola).

I will bet that your action at the nut is considerably too high, which would be common. You are unlikely to have gotten much of a set-up, let alone a "pro set-up", from an online seller. A pro set-up involves filing and measuring. You most likely got a quick check for string buzz, and it was out the door. I have played a number of TC instruments in music stores and the setups were always poor, with high nut action a common feature.

Start by measuring the string action at the nut/first fret, referring to one of the many helpful online tutorials/videos that demonstrate how to do this. One method, that does not require measuring gauges, is to fret each string at the 3rd fret. Then tap the string directly over the 1st fret, sighting the clearance carefully - there should be just the slimmest margin of daylight between the string and the 1st fret - maybe half the thickness of mandolin E string.

With a tutorial, practice, and patience, adjusting nut action is not difficult, but it is important to have a set of files with rounded edges that will permit you to make slots at the right depth and shape.

I would agree a mandola is not noticeably a lot harder than an mandolin to fret -- but I think it will seem a bit more challenging to play than a mandolin. For one thing you do have slightly long stretches on a mandola and that can add to the over all feeling of harder to play?

But I agree it sounds like this mandola might not be set up properly. Getting the string action at the 12th fret would for all four courses would probably tell us a lot. I also agree the nut would be a good place look at for troubles as described.

I think that statement about string gauges (mandolin versus mandola) is true, if you just are comparing A to A or G to G on the two instruments -- but overall mandola strings gauges are a bit heavier.

For example sticking with a single string maker, D'Addario for example the gauges for a set of "heavy" mandolin strings (J75) are:
E = 0.0115"; A = 0.016"; D= 0.026" and G = 0.041". In contrast for the mandola set (J76) you have A = 0.015"; D = 0.025"; G = 0.035" and C = 0.052".

The J5 set on a mandolin with 13 7/8" scale would be 194.0 lbs total tension and the J76 set on a mandola with a 15 7/8" scale would be a bit more at like 208 ls so a little more tension over all on the mandola.

My feeling is that on a properly set up set of instruments the C and G strings on the mandola WILL require a tab more pressure the fret than the G and D strings on a mandolin. And it will SEEM even harder because of the additional streatch - -but it is not a big deal and you normally adapt quickly. So again, most likely something is "wrong" on the set up on this mandola.

[DougC]

This information can get pretty complicated and I don't know if Laurie has the experience. But generally she is right to question the situation. All of this advice is really good. Try the simple things but get it to someone who can fix it. It's worth the effort.

[Bernie Daniel]

A simpler method is to try it with a capo on the first fret. If it's appreciably easier to play, then the nut is likely too high.

That is a great idea!