Non mandolin question but...

[Timbofood]

This place has some of the most knowledgeable finishers I can think of!
I have a small project in the works and am trying to decide if it needs a finish or not.
It's a cypress table for my grill (posted a picture in "what's on your bench) made from old brewing barrel material from Stroh's brewery. The only finish on it at this point it wax on the "sides", I was thinking that beeswax rubbed onto the surface and warmed with either the sun or a heat gun would be both durable and food safe.
Any opinions?
Sorry for the flipped shot, using a strange iPad.

[Jim Adwell]

Generally these things get basted in steak drippings anyway, don't they?

I'd go with a quality Porterhouse finish.

[Timbofood]

I'm kind of trying to avoid the "diner" finish but, it's a reasonable option I suppose.

[billhay4]

Walnut oil is considered safe for food surfaces. There are two kinds. Get the kind that is cured so it hardens.
Bill

[pointpergame]

Even "external" varnish erodes in 1 - 2 years if outside. Enamel would have to be glossy, probably, and can't take the mechanical challenge. I think oil is a good choice. I doubt you're going to set raw food on it...you're sealing it for appearance, I assume.

[Timbofood]

I had heard about walnut oil someplace, thanks Bill.
Point per game, your breakdown of finishes is exactly why I sought council from this bunch of learned folk!
Yes, I want it to stay "rustic" (saw swirls etc.) but, not be stained by falling walnut tree detritus, and shall we say "bird offerings". Something cleanable and easily restored. I'm liking the walnut oil for the penetrating quality, it's going to live outside year round and I use the grills all year so there we have the whole story, I guess.
Any opinion on mineral oil? I use it for cutting boards and knife handles inside. Problems with it outside? That, I have even, walnut oil I will need to find.

[LadysSolo]

To seal it from the elements, you can use Thompson's waterseal (holds up through about two years on the porch through Ohio winters,) or if you don't mind a little expense, Spar Varnish (meant for use on boat wood) also holds up well. I use it on stall fronts in the barn (sees hard use and holds up.)

[Timbofood]

Both of those I have considered but,I was thinking something with less aromatic quality. Thompsons would be fine for a deck or that sort of thing but, this is in close proximity to food and a little heat (not much) I'm leaning toward the walnut oil or mineral oil, re application is not an issue, mineral oil is cheap too. Pour some on, rub it in, repeat. If I get enough on I should not have trouble with winters misery. A friend who turns beautiful bowls suggested walnut or mineral with the multi application caveat. Sunny and relatively warm this afternoon, I think I will get out the mineral oil, there's a pint around here somewhere.

[TheMandoKit]

Wooden cutting boards are finished with a mixture of food grade mineral oil and beeswax. Heat the oil and melt the wax into it. Let it cool, rub on the board, let it soak in, and wipe off the excess. It won't last forever & will have to be reapplied from time to time, but it is food safe, and protects the wood.

[Timbofood]

I knew there was a combination like that! Beeswax will go into the next coat. I've got two coats of straight mineral oil on now, the weather was really good for it this afternoon. I was thinking that applying heat and rubbing the wax directly onto the surface.
Re application is not a concern, I have to re treat my cutting boards and knife handles, the grill table I figure three or four times a year. First right after the thaw, once or twice through the summer and once before the snow flies, like it might this weekend.
Oh, Bother!

[Paul Busman]

Tru Oil which some have used for mandolins is very durable. I've used it on several kitchen knife handles which have been washed many times and still look perfect. Whatever you use be sure to get it down between the slats.