Replacement bridge - how much of an improvement?

[cwgivens21]

Hello all,

I consider myself a middling mandolin player, and my current instrument is a Fender F-style that I received several years ago for Christmas. It's certainly a serviceable instrument, and good enough for someone of my meager talents, but I'm hoping to upgrade in the next year or so.

In the meantime, however, I want to be sure I'm getting the most out of my mando, and I've given some thought to replacing the stock bridge. My question is this - how much difference will upgrading to a better bridge make on a low-midrange mandolin like mine? It seems that folks on here really like the Cumberland Acoustic bridges, but while $55 isn't a terribly substantial sum, I don't want to throw good money after bad, so to speak.

Any other suggestions on getting the most out of a modest instrument would be appreciated. I've ordered Rob's setup book and plan to put his expertise to good use once I receive it.

[Nevin]

In general, unless there is something wrong with the bridge, having a well fit brisge is more important. Don't forget that unless you can do it yourself, you would have to ad the price of fitting the bridge. If you can fit it yourself, you may want to see if you can get any improvment in the fit of the existing bridge.

[allenhopkins]

Retrofitting an inexpensive mandolin -- is yours all laminated woods, or does it have a solid top? -- is probably not going to provide value for the expense. Plus, you'll need to fit the new bridge to the top.

I'd recommend getting Rob's e-book, doing the best set-up you can do, and seeing if there's an improvement. Save the $55 towards your next, better mandolin.

[colorado_al]

A few thoughts,
A new bridge can improve the sound, but it is not going to be a huge difference.
It wounds like you're on the right track. Setting up the mandolin properly first will help way more than a new bridge. I'd do that first and see how it sounds.
Consider the strings that you use as well. There are many different types that can dramatically change the sound of your mandolin. Different picks also.
The bonus to mandolin bridges are that you can transfer them to a new instrument. So, buying a cumberland bridge isn't throwing money away. It can be moved to your new mandolin when the time comes. With a new bridge, you will have to fit it to the instrument.
Personally, I'd not spend money on a new bridge on a $500 mandolin. It is sort of like having a dodge neon and deciding to put on a new tailpipe in the hopes that it will suddenly be like a porsche.
Setup your mandolin correctly, or spend your $50 having someone do it for you. That will make a much bigger difference.
If you set it up on your own, take the $50 that you would spend on a new bridge and put it away to start your new mandolin fund.

[Caleb]

I had a CA bridge professionally installed on my Eastman a few years ago. It surely changed that instrument for the better. But I have made an observation here over the years: there are many mandolins that come up for sale in the Classifieds with upgraded bridges. It goes to show that it doesn't cure the itch. I think a person is better off saving money toward a better mandolin than putting money into one they will never truly love.

[DroneAlone]

I have refitted the original bridge on my Eastman MD515, following the instructions on frets.com, which wasn't too difficult. While I already liked the sound of the instrument before, and the fit of the original bridge didn't seem all that bad (no visible gaps), the sound improved significantly. The improvement was most noticeable on the G string which sounds definitely fuller and rounder now.

The refitting of the original bridge was initially meant only as an exercise for fitting the Cumberland Acoustics bridge I have waiting in my drawer, but it was so successful that I've decided to enjoy the improved mandolin for a while before trying the CA bridge.

Maybe you try refitting the original bridge first?

Peter

[cwgivens21]

Received Rob's ebook this morning, so now I know what I'll be doing this weekend. Based upon what everyone has said, I think I will hold off on a new bridge until I get the setup done. And just to clarify - I'm not necessarily unhappy with my mando, it's got a great sound for the price, and it's certainly adequate for my skill level right now; but I am a tinkerer.

[Jackgaryk]

CW...experimenting with different picks and strings can be a lot of fun. Rob's ebook will be right down your alley. A great book for a tinkerer like yourself.

[WW52]

I've tweaked bridges, particularly the saddles, on most of the mandolins I've owned --removed wood off the bottom and had good results. Never had a problem with a saddle sagging, either.

[MysTiK PiKn]

Yup. Do Rob Meldrum's book first. Many have gone before.

Tinker? you can go nuts on
www.frets.com (Frank Ford)
and also
http://www.lutherie.net/index.html (Paul Hostetter)

More info there than what you even thought possible.


The problem w new bridge discussion is that people do new bridge and also do diamond studded whatsit changes - so it's impossible to tell what actually made a difference - maybe the bling? omg. please.

If you want your own personal "I DID THIS" bridge - google "red henry bridge"
- a series of experimental bridge studies using different woods and structural techniques.
- (i did this, btw) (fun) (banjo killer, maybe)


There's a zillion ways to "tinker" - enjoy it.

[Mandoplumb]

I think a better bridge will improve most mandolins not knock your socks off improvement and there lies the problem. The improvement will be so minor that you will really have to know mandolins to detect it. A newbie probably wouldn't. I agree that there are more noticeable improvements to make to a $500 mandolins that won't cost $50. Watch that removing wood from the bridge too easy to over do it. I tried that on a starter mandolin years ago, sounded better when I strung it up, next time I got it out of the case I had to buy that new bridge

[Ivan Kelsall]

I fitted a CA bridge to my first 'good' mandolin,but that was a £2,200 UK instrument ( currently $3,377 US) & it did improve the tone across the whole instrument - bass to treble. However,below a certain price point & build quality,i think that any difference would be minimal. As one member says,string brand/gauge can make a huge difference as can 'pick' type. It depends on what style of music you play & the tone that you're trying to achieve.
I've found that for a huge increase in sheer 'punch',then the DR brand of strings suit all my instruments. I use DR MD11's,the same gauges as J74's. They're a brighter sounding string & last a very long time. However,since i've been using the Dunlop Primetone picks,my old string type,D'Addario J74's,sound almost as good . It's amazing what finding the right pick can do - although ''the right pick'' can be very different from person to person.
Try different strings.I'd personally recommend DR MD11's & also GHS A270's.Those 2 brands are the only ones that i've tried on 2 of my mandolins that made any 'positive' change in tone. Also,for the small investment,try a pack of Dunlop 'Primetone' picks. They're very highly regarded on here & they might surprise you with the difference they can make,
Ivan

[Flame Maple]

I also have Rob Meldrums E Book on setting up a Mandolin and its a wealth of information .It has been a great help . Thanks Rob

[lenf12]

My '56 Gibson F-12 was fitted with an old style Gibson rosewood bridge with the large brass adjustment wheels. The mandolin didn't sound very good to begin with but changing the bridge to a well fitted CA bridge certainly helped quite a bit. It won't make a silk purse from a sow's ear but it's a start in the right direction. I did send it off to Randy Wood in 2008 for his revoicing surgery and it's my all time go to mandolin. MAS can burn in hell...

Len B.
Clearwater, FL

[allenhopkins]

My '56 Gibson F-12 was fitted with an old style Gibson rosewood bridge with the large brass adjustment wheels. The mandolin didn't sound very good to begin with but changing the bridge to a well fitted CA bridge certainly helped quite a bit. It won't make a silk purse from a sow's ear but it's a start in the right direction. I did send it off to Randy Wood in 2008 for his revoicing surgery and it's my all time go to mandolin. MAS can burn in hell...

Definitely worth doing for a Gibson F-12. For a Fender...I dunno...

[soliver]

I just did the set up on my cheap-o mando using Rob's book and I am really pleased with the results. But in the process I did notice my bridge was kinda wacked to start with and I notice that even though I seated it according to Rob's instructions it is off and needs to be replaced ... I know the instrument is not worth a CA bridge but I'm hesitant to use a $5 replacement from Amazon... Is there something in the middle of that price range? Recommendations?

Doing the set up yourself is totally worth it by the way, I loved the process.

[Caleb]

I just did the set up on my cheap-o mando using Rob's book and I am really pleased with the results. But in the process I did notice my bridge was kinda wacked to start with and I notice that even though I seated it according to Rob's instructions it is off and needs to be replaced ... I know the instrument is not worth a CA bridge but I'm hesitant to use a $5 replacement from Amazon... Is there something in the middle of that price range? Recommendations?

Doing the set up yourself is totally worth it by the way, I loved the process.

I am pretty sure Red Henry sells his maple bridges for $20 ea. I've always been intrigued by them but have never used one. http://www.murphymethod.com/index.cf...t&contentId=16

[David Lewis]

I just did the set up on my cheap-o mando using Rob's book and I am really pleased with the results. But in the process I did notice my bridge was kinda wacked to start with and I notice that even though I seated it according to Rob's instructions it is off and needs to be replaced ... I know the instrument is not worth a CA bridge but I'm hesitant to use a $5 replacement from Amazon... Is there something in the middle of that price range? Recommendations? Doing the set up yourself is totally worth it by the way, I loved the process.

I had a bad bridge on my epiphone. I put a Weber on it and love it. The mm50 I have has a carved top, so has a good sound but the Weber bridge brought out the mids and the lows beautifully.

[Willie Poole]

At one time I owned a Fender F model mandolin and I did a lot of things to improve it but nothing made it sound decent for bluegrass so I sold it to a fellow that wanted something to learn on, that's about all they are good for, there are some exceptions of course and it depends on what a person likes...A lot of mandolins have an ebony bridge from the factory and replacing it with a $50 one will not improve it very much, money wasted, I have tried that and ended up selling two bridges to a fellow Café member....

Best save your money and hope to get a better mandolin in the future, just keep using the Fender to learn on...

Willie

[soliver]

So I looked at Weber and theirs are WAY more expensive ...practically twice the cost of Cumberland Acoustic, and Red Henry's are not adjustable, which is not what I am wanting at this juncture... For a very inexpensive instruments, what would be a good bet for an adjustable bridge in the $10 to $20 range, or is it all the same unless you are getting a CA bridge? Would the $5 special on Amazon be just the same?

[colorado_al]

I wouldn't spend much more than this for your project:
http://www.elderly.com/accessories/items/MA6.htm
You'll need to shape it.
Though you'll have a more stable one if you go with ebony:
http://smile.amazon.com/Golden-Gate-.../dp/B005N5USYU
You can also post to the Classified "Want ads" section and someone might have one that they don't need because of an upgrade.

[soliver]

Firstly, thanks Colorado al, I appreciate the advice

Secondly, what's the advantage of the "stability" of the ebony bridge? Stable as in it is more sturdy, or stable as in it won't be as effected by changes in temperature and humidity? Not that much price difference.

[cwgivens21]

Just a quick update for folks -

Spent a considerable portion of Saturday setting up the mando according to Rob's instructions, with mixed results only because I chipped the nut between the two D strings whilst cutting down the slots. There's still enough of the nut to hold the strings in place, so I will probably attempt a repair of the nut before I order a replacement and knock the old one out. Otherwise, the mando plays wonderfully. The bridge was fit well enough that I didn't have to make any substantial adjustment to the foot at all, so I'm leaving it as-is for the time being.

[Steevarino]

I noticed a couple of folks asking for a less expensive alternative to Cumberland Acoustic mandolin bridges. I have put CA bridges on many mandolins over the years. Many of them were various models of "The Loar" mandolins. Most customers have no interest in getting their old bridge back, so I have a box full of them, string slotted and ready to fit to your mandolin. If anyone wants one, let me know via PM or e-mail. Not free, but cheap!

[soliver]

Just got a take-off Ebony bridge from "The Loar" from Steevarino today. Spent about 2 hours working it to the right shape and WOWSERS what an improvement. Makes me feel like this little $50 Craigslist RM-25 is not too shabby sounding of an instrument.

Many thanks Steve!!!