Guitar player needs advice regarding stringing a mando

[gomandogo]

As a guitar player, I always try to get about 3 string winds around the tuning peg when I restring. I'm new to the mando so I've been looking for guidance on how to restring. A few videos I've found show a technique where the string is pulled through the peg with tension and wrapped using a method that then leads to very few, if any, windings around the peg. Is that a common method for mandolin or did I just happen to find a couple of youtube videos that used the same method?

[tkdboyd]

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musi...dostring3.html
great resource, in general. For me the one consideration is to bring the string to pitch before cutting the excess string.

[SincereCorgi]

I second the frets.com method, I use it and have never had any problems. However, to a certain degree it depends on the shape of the tuner post. Some older style posts are so tall and smoothly cylindrical with a high hole that the 'lock' doesn't work as well or look nice, and the additional wraps help ensure that the string is low enough to sit well in the nut.

I have a coworker who uses the 'lock' with no wraps whatsoever on guitars and I find it unstable and a little tacky-looking.

[mandroid]

My self discovered trick, I pull the string with my right hand, the string goes up and Over my hand,
by pulling , it keeps the string loop on the tailpiece hook,

while I poke it, the free end, thru the tuner hole ..
you still can do the overwinding in the article linked to..

the detour up and over my hand results in at least 3 wraps around the tuner capstan

by the time the tension pulls the string in a straight line. (& I pull out my right hand)..

[UsuallyPickin]

Well .... there are several previous threads on this question. Personally .... I pull the string through the hole then wrap it under the string on the inside of the spindle so it "catches itself". Then I put two wraps on the spindle. A capo can be used to keep the string under tension and on the hook or post depending on what kind of tailpiece you have . R/

[eadg145]

I also use the frets.com method, and recommend it. Also, since Gryphon is my local shop I am super careful whenever I change strings. I live in mortal terror of having to take my mandolin to Frank Ford and having him see a crummy stringing job.
Still, I do allow myself an extra winding or two on the A strings because, you know, A strings...

[Ed Goist]

As a guitar player, I always try to get about 3 string winds around the tuning peg when I restring. I'm new to the mando so I've been looking for guidance on how to restring. A few videos I've found show a technique where the string is pulled through the peg with tension and wrapped using a method that then leads to very few, if any, windings around the peg. Is that a common method for mandolin or did I just happen to find a couple of youtube videos that used the same method?

I use the same technique on guitar and mandolin, and it doesn't require a lot of winds (one is always enough):

• Go through the peg hole parallel to the nut inside to outside,

• Leave about an inch of slack in the string above the first fret,

• With the amount of slack set, kink the string at the peg so it pointing toward the top of the peghead (the more slack, the more winds when done),

• Wind the section of string above the kink around the peg (outside toward inside),

• Pull it tight around the peg, and now kink it up over itself just on the inside of the peg.

• The wind is now locked, and the peg can be tightened.

[Tom Haywood]

Whatever method you use on the guitar is fine on the mandolin. There are advantages and disadvantages to the different methods for locking them on. BTW I like 2 1/2 wraps on mine.

[Mandoplumb]

I wouldn't call any stringing job crummy if it kept the string from slipping any limited the "taking up slack" from all the winds around the post.I use the method described by Ed Goist, have for years. I am convinced that a lot of the "stretching" of new strings is taking up slack in the 3,4,5 winds around the post.

[Tom Haywood]

I can't recall seeing a photo of this method, maybe because it is so standard for guitars. It was the first method I learned back in the 60s, and I have used it on my own instruments ever since. I tried all other recommended methods when I worked at the music store. This “lock” is basically the same as shown in Frank Ford's photos.



There has been a debate for years whether any wraps are necessary. My experience is that the main weakness occurs where the string is bent, not in the straight line leading to the bend. Most strings seem to break right at that first bend at the post. However, I liken this to hanging a heavy bucket from a tree limb with a small rope. A couple of wraps around the limb seem to add strength and stability and take most of the pressure off of the severe bend at the knot. I've had very few strings break in 47 years of playing guitars and eight years playing mandolins. The strings on this bouzouki were played for 6 months, taken off, put back on, and have been played now for another year. One high “E” string broke early on and has not been replaced, because I have been waiting for another one to break before replacing the set. This was the first set I put on it, and I put additional wraps on the smaller strings to facilitate remounting them later. An added advantage to this method is that the final wrap is down the post a bit which creates a greater break angle from the nut. Also, if a string does break you can remove it quickly without any tools. Handy if you're on stage. The main disadvantage is that it is difficult to get exactly the same number of wraps on every post, so the look is inconsistent. So it's always a balance between looks and function. Slipping is a very brief problem if the “lock” is wrapped tightly and the additional wraps are against the post and are not overlapping. BTW some string posts are self locking and are not designed for additional wraps, but I haven't seen any of those on mandolins yet.

[SincereCorgi]

This “lock” is basically the same as shown in Frank Ford's photos.

I would disagree, since the end of the string isn't being bound against the post, but, at the same time, like, who cares? The method in your photo works fine, and I agree with everything else in your post. (The shocking truth- I had a mandola worked on and restrung by Frank Ford, and he used the method in your photo rather than the official frets.com method.)

[Chughes423]

I wrap atleast twice on the lower strings and more on the higher. Its more of a guitar method but works fine for me.