Endpin that fits enlarged hole from pickup jack

[Atlanta Mando Mike]

Does anyone know if there is a readily available endpin that would fit the enlarged hole from the jack used with a K&K twin?

[bernabe]

Mike, Ive always plugged and re-drilled in those cases. The other option is to turn one on a drill or drill press of a larger diameter. Like everything, others may have different tricks up their sleeves.

[billhay4]

Plug and re-drill is my recommendation.
Bill

[Pete Jenner]

Or you could just leave the jack there.

[Atlanta Mando Mike]

Yes, I know I could leave it and I may. That option aside - most recommend the fill and re drill option. Why not just have a larger diameter end pin to fit the larger whole? I'm not a Luthier but that just seems so much easier. What am I missing?

[Pete Jenner]

You could have one made. Easy enough for someone with a lathe.

[Hudmister]

It's not that easy to find an endpin with an oversized shaft and it is a pain to make your own with the correct taper, etc. I solved the problem by taking some 5 minute epoxy and using a tooth pick to coat the inside of the pin hole with a layer of epoxy. Do not insert the end pin. Let epoxy harden well and then see if a standard size pin fits. If the hole is a little too tight you can enlarge it with a small round file.

[multidon]

Just fitting a larger pin is not an option because the hole for the jack is straight not tapered. You need the taper for a pressure fit pin.

Don't know the size of your hole but Stew Mac sells a product called the NoJack. It is made for 1/2 inch diameter holes. It has a slotted plastic collar that you insert and then tighten the fit with an Allen wrench then you insert a tapered pin. It is designed for guitars. I have never used it but the design seems sound. This would make it easier to reverse if desired than plugging and re drilling.

If the hole is smaller than 1/2 inch, I think some are 3/8 or something like that, another option would be to use something similar to what Weber uses. What you would need is a rubber compression nut and a knurled thumb screw to match. The compression nut should fit the hole snugly but not tightly. After you insert it fully you screw in the thumbscrew and as it tightens the rubber nut expands and presses against the sides of the hole. Don't go too far or the force may crack the tail block. The thumb screw then becomes your strap button. There was a thread sometime ago with great pictures of the Weber system. Maybe if you search Weber end pin you can find the thread.

[bernabe]

Mike, If you make a bigger end pin, it wont fit other TP's without modifying the pin hole size on those as well. I assume the TP you have is as big as the hole for the jack. If youre going to use the same TP, then either way will work. If your changing the TP now or may in the future, just plug and re-drill. Plug and re-drill is easier [faster]

[multidon]

I found the thread I was searching for. It is entitled "best way to tighten strap button". You will see a detailed picture of the Weber system there. Good option IMHO.

[bernabe]

Just fitting a larger pin is not an option because the hole for the jack is straight not tapered. You need the taper for a pressure fit pin..

You'd have add taper to it just like your standard pin installs. That whole way is just unnecessary imo unless you have the same TP and just don't want to touch up the finish on the exposed plug edge

[Atlanta Mando Mike]

OK, I got it. Thanks or the help everybody.

[Hudmister]

OK, I got it. Thanks or the help everybody.

Mike, you can't stop getting help from Mando Café. These things have to run their course.

[rockies]

Another possibility is the Taylor guitar end pin assembly which comes in their guitars, also available for direct sale fo $10 dollars or so. Uses a nut assembly which goes inside into the end block. Then the end pin is threaded in and tightened up into place. Some luthiers may have some hanging around after they've been removed to install the jack when installing pickups etc
Dave

[Paul Hostetter]

Some possibilities:

http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_...ak_Endpin.html

http://www.billpillmore.com/Endpins.html

I don't think the Taylor ones look any better than an endpin jack, but: https://www.taylorguitars.com/taylorware/end-pin

[Dale Ludewig]

Drawing the prongs of that Taylor T-nut into a tailblock looks a bit like a way to split wood. It would take a lot of pressure to force those prongs in so the inside part would seat.

[Paul Hostetter]

Not in my experience. I've tried 'em all, and the Taylor installation is easy and unproblematic. They just don't look very nice.

[Marty Jacobson]

Nice, the Taylor T-nut looks like the ticket. You can always turn an ebony button and epoxy it to the proper thread to remedy the appearance (which I agree is not very attractive).

[kkmm]

I solved the problem by taking some 5 minute epoxy and using a tooth pick to coat the inside of the pin hole with a layer of epoxy.

The solution above would work, I like to add one more detail: you could wrap the shaft of the endpin with food plastic wrap and insert in the hole while the epoxy is still wet. The plastic will prevent the endpin to be glued to the epoxy, this way it could be pull out (a bit tough, but doable) then use a small round file to file the hole a bit for the endpin to slide in smoothly. And make sure the mandolin it kept standing up, endpin at the bottom so the epoxy does not run away.
Of course, the best solution is to find an endpin that fits.

[Pete Jenner]

Find a nice end pin you like and get a new mandolin to fit it.
Nail soup anyone?

[kkmm]

The plastic will prevent the end pin to be glued to the epoxy, this way it could be pull out (a bit tough, but doable)

This is me again, this morning, I have an opportunity to fill some epoxy in a bridge pin hole as I drill it a little too big for the bridge pin. The method above works great, I use the "6 mins black epoxy". The whole thing took 15 mins to complete. And pulling the plastic out is a piece of cake, it just go out as it does not stick to epoxy.