E string keeps jumping out of nut slot

[Blues Harp Tom]

I bought a cheap mandolin last February. It was my first stringed instrument. After about a month, I was hooked, and I decided to upgrade. I then bought a 2012 Breedlove VTG OO about a year ago, and I love it. I have had no trouble at all with this instrument. I have become comfortable with changing strings, and I replaced the strings about a week ago. I think this is the 3rd or 4th set that I've installed on this mandolin with no issues. However, tonight when I was practicing scales with tremolo, the bottom E string jumped out of the nut slot. I loosened the tuner and slid the string back into place, but it kept jumping out when I tried to re-tune it. I tried replacing the string, but the new one jumps out of the slot as well. Upon initial unmagnified inspection, the slot in the nut for its mate might be a half a hair deeper than the one that is giving me trouble, but I don't know for sure.

Why is this suddenly a problem? My initial thought is that I need to cut the slot a little deeper, but I am afraid. I have never attempted anything like that, and I don't want to mess this up. What do you suggest?

[kkmm]

Did you use the same string size when you put in new ones ? if the nut slot was filed for string size 0.009, putting in a 0.011 string could make it not sitting well in the narrow slot and it could jump out, that's just my guess as I never had this problem.
I would ensure both E strings sit at the same depth first, by filing the narrow slot larger (be careful if you have never done this as you could cut the slot too deep causing the free string to buzz.
When I file the nut slot, I always put the feeler slat(s) flat, against the nut to ensure I can only cut down that deep and never deeper. The feeler thickness should be a tiny bit taller than the first fret.

[Ky Slim]

Make sure you have several wraps around the tuner post and that they are wrapping down the post.

[Mandoplumb]

Agree with Ky Slim. If string is riding high on the tuner there is not enough down pressure to hold it in slot of nut.

[Killian King]

Make sure you have several wraps around the tuner post and that they are wrapping down the post.

I just changed strings last night and was wondering if anyone had any tips for getting that clean wrap around the tuning post look. I've played guitar for years and have changed strings hundreds of times. My method is functional, but not nearly as clean as I've seen others do it.

[rubydubyr]

I bought a cheap mandolin last February. It was my first stringed instrument. After about a month, I was hooked, and I decided to upgrade. I then bought a 2012 Breedlove VTG OO about a year ago, and I love it. I have had no trouble at all with this instrument. I have become comfortable with changing strings, and I replaced the strings about a week ago. I think this is the 3rd or 4th set that I've installed on this mandolin with no issues. However, tonight when I was practicing scales with tremolo, the bottom E string jumped out of the nut slot. I loosened the tuner and slid the string back into place, but it kept jumping out when I tried to re-tune it. I tried replacing the string, but the new one jumps out of the slot as well. Upon initial unmagnified inspection, the slot in the nut for its mate might be a half a hair deeper than the one that is giving me trouble, but I don't know for sure.

Why is this suddenly a problem? My initial thought is that I need to cut the slot a little deeper, but I am afraid. I have never attempted anything like that, and I don't want to mess this up. What do you suggest?

Take it to someone who knows what they are doing to get it looked at. Doubtful the slot suddenly got less deep than before, and you had no issues with it prior to this. So, best to let a qualified tech look at it.

[Tom Wright]

It is weird that the behavior changed, unless a small chip has broken off the nut (sometimes likely since it is at the edge), or your winding style changed.

I had this problem with a new Buchanan, since Tom had beveled the nut too much and left too little material for the outboard E, especially since that tuner wanted to wind upward toward its middle, making for almost no break angle. I avoided making a new nut by drilling a second hole in that tuner, and forcing the string to wind downward by using a little piece of .050 string as a block.



My winding style is to allow a couple or three inches of slack (cutting excess), make a sharp bend to prevent slippage, wind one or two times by looping, being careful to wind cleanly. I hold the string down while winding the rest of the way to ensure continued clean winding. I clip away the last bit and bend the stub down.



I never break an E string while changing, or any other string. I use multiple turns for my E on this mando since it needs it for angle, but normally you would want three or four turns for the E string. In the rare event that I break an E while playing it will be at the bridge where it is getting pounded, not at the peg.

Locking the string by looping around itself is not needed, but at least two turns is. The extra turns reduce the strain at the bend where the string enters the peg.

I developed my routine back in the split-post Fender/Kluson days, since you had to cut the string before winding. BTW, I really miss the split-post design, although they were a bit weak and breakable in the guitar version. It guarantees you won't get stabbed by the exposed cut string, and is completely non-slip since you make two right-angle bends, and in different planes. I've been tempted to modify some Gotohs.

[Blues Harp Tom]

Well, the problem seems to be rectified now after a few trial and error string winding sessions. (I now have a couple sets of strings that are missing E strings.) I think there was a combination of problems: I removed both E strings and inspected the slots with a magnifying glass. The outside E slot had some packed debris imbedded in the slot. I have been using coated strings, so this may be some of that coating, I don't know for sure. I was able to gently scrape out the debris using the scrap end of a cut E string. This cleaned the slot nicely. The biggest problem, I believe, was an insufficient number of wraps as mentioned above by the slim gentleman from Kentucky and echoed by Mandoplumb. So, leaving plenty of slack, I wrapped new E strings using the Tom Wright method. This technique led to a beautiful string installation, and after a vigorous one-hour practice session, the E strings remain in their proper slots. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that improving my stringing ability will solve this problem for good. Also, this new set of strings is not coated, so maybe that will lead to cleaner slots.

Thanks for all the feedback. This place is a valuable resource for a novice like me.

[haggardphunk]

Well done. I wish changing mandolin strings was as easy as guitar strings

[DHopkins]

I'd rather be set on fire for 15 minutes than change a set of mandolin strings.