Mandobird VIII vs. Eastwood Mandocaster

[David Rambo]

For those of you who have played both the Mandobird VIII and the Eastwood Mandocaster, is the Eastwood a step above the Mandobird? The prices are not very different, but the idea of dual pickups seems calling my name. Is the workmanship enough better on the Eastwood to justify making the change? Thanks for all your help.

[Verne Andru]

I think it's a 6-of-one-half-dozen-of-other question and really depends on what you're playing preferences and tastes are.

They are both PacRim instruments and expect to have to replace hardware and do a proper setup regardless which you get.

Beyond that the body styles are quite different.

As you note, you get more options with the 2 pickup config on the Eastwood and of the two, that would be my choice.

[ricomando]

these are both entry level instruments . you might as well get the one you like the look of , or better yet buy the one you can find used for the cheapest price .

[buchrob]

Hopefully, you can get to try before you buy. No experience with the Mandobird, but had 2 mandocasters, one a "name" brand and the second an eBay clone, for about half the price. Both suffered from tiny frets and a sloppy bridge with poor string alignment. Surprisingly, the clone had less issues with the pickup and electronics (no hum). The "name" brand pickups were full-width strat-sized and the clone's were a little narrower, somewhat limiting your choice in replacements. Quality of construction was identical, though routing of the pickup cavity was different.

The mandocaster will grow on you, but certainly will require some fret scalloping, new strings and an upgraded bridge with string-thru-body implemented if you are at all fussy.

[thistle3585]

I've had several of both instruments through my hands for repair and/or modifications. I'd recommend the Eastwood for better quality right out of the box but if you plan on doing upgrades then the mandobird is more upgrade friendly. From a playing standpoint, the mandobird has a thinner neck and the mandcaster has more of a rounded guitar neck.

[mandroid]

Trying to restring my 8 string FM61se, I can use Balls out of Cello strings to use Loop end strings
in the 4 thru body ferrules .. but it is a bit of a PIA..

Even using Guitar strings , the 2 balls will fit in the ferrule , butif one of them breaks , in a Gig you
have to loosen the other string to replace the broken one .. and that will take longer .


at home messing with it for an hour is less of an issue.

re-machining a new through-body ferrule with 2 holes in the end spaced far enough apart could help somewhat ..
in the guitar string using configuration ..

[Soundfarmer Pete]

The Revelations have a neat approach.....for each pair of strings, one goes through a hole in the back of the bridge and one goes through the body! .....fully adjustable bridge saddles and less than half the price of an Eastwood but with similar build quality.....but as stated before, the fret wire is very small gauge....but generally, only a very light fret dress is needed to get an excellent action.
Another upside to the Mandocaster is the adjustable truss rod - not a feature on Mandobirds although care is needed since they are fitted with 2 way rods (which can catch out the unsuspecting). I`ve seen overzealous attempts at adjustment lead to fingerboards separated from necks and in one case, the "cheapie" joint had broken making the headstock dangle stupidly

[David Rambo]

Thanks for the info. I was just curious. I have a Mandobird VIII and have an Almuse bridge, pickup, and replacement controls. There are still some intonation problems tho, probably due to a bad factory fret job. The intonation is OK at the 12th fret, but goes sharp starting by the 2nd fret. As it approaches the 12th fret, it comes back. I've been playing it through a Fender Blues amp, and have had a lot of fun with it.

[Verne Andru]

Thanks for the info. I was just curious. I have a Mandobird VIII and have an Almuse bridge, pickup, and replacement controls. There are still some intonation problems tho, probably due to a bad factory fret job. The intonation is OK at the 12th fret, but goes sharp starting by the 2nd fret. As it approaches the 12th fret, it comes back. I've been playing it through a Fender Blues amp, and have had a lot of fun with it.

The problems you describe are indicative of high nut-slots. While it happens on all instruments, it is particularly noticeable on the shorter mandolin scale. Having this attended to is all in a days work for any competent luthier and is part of what should be attended to when you have the instrument setup.

There are videos and books if you're into the DIY approach. It's not hard with a good set of needle files or, if you can afford them, nut slot files. Just go slow as it's easier to remove nut material than to put it back if you go too low.