How do you make a small profile pickguard.

[fscotte]

I can imagine that there is a margin of "error" that it pretty forgiving when making a pickguard, but I don't know the thickness, or how you go about attaching it securely to the mandolin. Also, things like clearance above the top.

For the record, I'm considering those really small pickguards.

[billhay4]

Wood is stiffer than plastic in these dimensions. Many attach them with a small block attached to the bottom of the pickup and screwed directly into the fretboard end. No attachment on the end toward the bridge is needed.
That's the way I've done mine.
Wood also adds a lot of possibilities for inlay, marquetry, etc.
I would think any clearance from the top would suffice.
Bill

[David Houchens]

The several I've made have been rosewood or ebony and therefore stiff. I use the small block running length wise underneath as Bill mentioned to attach it to the fingerboard extension. I attach with one small screw and a 1/16" pin. It placed the top of the pickguard flush with the bottom of the fingerboard binding.

[juneman]

Hi, here is how I do mine. I use a small 1 1/2 aluminum angle epoxied to the bottom of the pickguard. the aluminum is light weight and easy to shape to the bottom contour of the fingerboard extension. I usually paint the underside black. it attaches with two small screws. you can also offset the aluminum angle if the fingerboard overhangs the fingerboard extension. on my builds I make it flush so it fits up nicely. hope the pics help.


walter JUNE mandolins and guitars

[fscotte]

Yes that's helps immensely. Thanks everyone.

[Rob Grant]

I use a single screw that secures the guard to the side of the mandolin in the area of the linings. The tension from this single screw maintains pressure on two pins which locate into the side of the fretboard extension. The pins and side wire are a continuous "frame" of H.T. stainless steel TIG wire which is laminated between two thin, grooved (to take the wire frame) veneers of ebony and ironwood. This works a treat for me and it only involves one easy-to-get-at screw to remove the pick guard. The guards are relatively thin >4mm and particularly light.

Below are three photos and one diagram. The photos show the top and bottom of the guard and the unit attached to one of my mandolins. The diagram is the TIG wire "frame" which is laminated between the two veneers. One side pin on the wire frame is silver soldered to the continuous piece. The pins and their corresponding holes are relatively long/deep and a "snug" fit.

[Keith Newell]

I make mine from solid ebony with no glued blocks or anything. Is uses two 1/16" roll pins and a single screw all drilled into the fingerboard extension.
Keith

[Zissou Intern]

Keith, again, that is a great looking mandolin... absolutely love the scroll.

I apologize for the thread hijack.

[Ivan Kelsall]

This is the pickguard off my Lebeda. It's very similar in the way that it fits to the one made by Juneman & it's as solid as a rock.
It's 3mm thick Ebony & the attachment is extruded brass angle. It's attached with 2 woodscrews in the 2 end holes.I think the screws are a size up in length & diameter,from truss rod cover sized ones,
Ivan

PS - I removed the pickguard at one time,i didn't like the fat a** look of the bottom end. I re-shaped it & re-fitted it.