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Thread: which binding cement?

  1. #26
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    Default Re: which binding cement?

    Hobby Lobby didn't have Duco but had a big tube of Bond Cement. Seemed to be pretty much the same as Duco to me.

  2. #27
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    Default Re: which binding cement?

    I have been following this thread with great interest.

    Just out of sheer curiosity I looked at the MSDS to see what ingredients, hazardous ones anyway, are in Duco. I was surprised to find out that basically it is Cellulose Nitrate dissolved in acetone, isopropanol, and another solvent I did not recognize. This would make it chemically similar to nitrocellulose lacquer, right? Seems like that would make it a good choice.

    Funny John found it necessary to add acetone. The MSDS says it is 70-80 percent acetone by weight.

    As far as the formular being different, I vaguely remember in the 60's there being a problem with kids "huffing" model glue to get high. There was pressure for makers of model type cements to change the formula so that this was more difficult. Testor's, I seem to recall, added mustard to give it unpleasant odor. The MSDS of Duco lists camphor as an ingredient. Camphor is an odorant and maybe this is added to prevent the abuse.i don't know for sure. I am relying on childhood memories. When I built models in those days I used a clear cement that was basically 100 percent acetone and it welded the parts together. I thought it did a cleaner job than cement in a tube.
    Don

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  3. #28
    Registered User sunburst's Avatar
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    Default Re: which binding cement?

    Quote Originally Posted by multidon View Post
    ... The MSDS of Duco lists camphor as an ingredient. Camphor is an odorant and maybe this is added to prevent the abuse...
    Camphor is a common ingredient in celluloid plastic (when we scrape celluloid binding we get that camphor smell, like the inside of a ping pong ball). I understand it is a plasticizer for the material, so perhaps that is why it is there.

    As for adding acetone to Duco, I didn't look at the MSDS sheet, I just knew we were having problems with bindings and the thinner glue helped the problem. I suspect it comes down to mainly viscosity. It would seem to me that the acetone in the cement is probably doing most of the work (dissolving and "solvent welding" the binding material) anyway.

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  5. #29
    Registered User David Houchens's Avatar
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    Default Re: which binding cement?

    Depending on how time allows, I use Duco or thick super glue. It seems someone here once said they just use straight acetone brushed on and nothing else. I know it sticks celluloid binding to itself. Will this work? Seems too simple to be true.

  6. #30
    working for the mando.... Bluetickhound's Avatar
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    Default Re: which binding cement?

    I have had good luck finding Duco at Hobby Lobby and sometimes, Michaels craft stores. The 40% coupon I get from Hobby Lobby makes the stuff extra cheap to buy! The acetone trick is the clincher for making Duco really work. I haven't gotten to try it yet on binding (that's coming up shortly though!) but it's absolutely the ticket for some other non instrument related projects I've been working on that have needed a plastic adhesive.
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  7. #31
    working for the mando.... Bluetickhound's Avatar
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    Default Re: which binding cement?

    I have read that some folks dissolve scrap celluloid in acetone and it has worked wonderfully for bindings... Has anybody here got any experience doing that?
    "A creative man is driven by the the desire to achieve, not by the desire to beat others."

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  8. #32
    Registered User sunburst's Avatar
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    Default Re: which binding cement?

    Yep. I keep a small bottle of "ivoroid mud" (dissolved ivoroid scraps) and a small bottle of "turtle mud" (dissolved tortoise celluloid). I don't use it generally to glue bindings in place, but it comes in handy for binding repairs, fills and for miters.

  9. #33
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    Default Re: which binding cement?

    You know, nothing shows how well Duco works like when you try to remove a piece of binding your not happy with.

  10. #34
    Registered User Vernon Hughes's Avatar
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    Default Re: which binding cement?

    I just use straight acetone using a fat tipped sable hair artist brush. Soak the channel pretty good in 4-5" spans and then brush it on the backside of the binding.Gotta move along as the acetone drys fairly quick. A little blue painters tape to hold it in place and let it dry for an hour. If you have any gaps you can just load up the brush and wick it in where needed and press into place and re-tape. I've had to pull some off before and it will take wood with it if you aren't careful. Done it this way on every mando i've built and never had any problems.
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