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Thread: scale length

  1. #1
    Registered User Les Corley's Avatar
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    Default scale length

    I'm starting a new build It's somewhat like the 20s Stromberg & I'm going with a o fret but need some input on scale length. Thinking about using 13" rather than 13 7/8 but I'm wondering what the difference in tone might be. It will be a 10 fret rather than 12. Would like some input from some of you experts, thanks.

  2. #2
    Mandolin tragic Graham McDonald's Avatar
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    Default Re: scale length

    The shorter scale is just one variable that will have an influence on the tone. Other things being equal, the shorter string length will have less tension, so the instrument could be built a little lighter, but there are other factors at work as well. Depends as well on what you are expecting from the instrument. A 13" scale, lightly built canted top mandolin will sound different to a carved Gibson style instrument. Not suggesting better or worse, just different.

    cheers

  3. #3
    Registered User Les Corley's Avatar
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    Default Re: scale length

    Thanks Graham I appreciate your Input

  4. #4

    Default Re: scale length

    If you take a similar standard-length instrument, put a capo on the first fret and re-tune you will have a good reference point.

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  6. #5
    Registered User Kerry Krishna's Avatar
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    Default Re: scale length

    Les, I owned that amazing Howe/Orme brazilian mando/guitar that Grampa Banana ended up with all those years ago.(it was mentioned in a few threads). At 13 inches and shorter, it is considered to be a 'mandolinetto'.
    It was not hard at all to play, but the 13 inch scale was something that, even after hundreds of actual playing hours, I was never able to get used to. Don't get me wrong. It was an absolutely stunning archtop, but with the 13 inch scale, it was more in the toy category than a real mandolin.

    That one inch in scale difference made all the difference in the world.

    Because of this, 'it was lacking in many different ways. I would reconsider if I were you.
    "Listen here Skippy. This here mandolin is older than your Grandpa, and costs more than a new Porsche, so no. No, I can't play any Whane Newton on it..."

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  8. #6
    Registered User Les Corley's Avatar
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    Default Re: scale length

    Thank you Kerry thats the kind of input I was looking for. A 13 7/8 is what I'm used to so I'll stick with that. Thanks

  9. #7
    Mando-Accumulator Jim Garber's Avatar
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    Default Re: scale length

    Later Lyon & Healy professional mandolins have 13" scales and they sound excellent with Thomastik strings. Many bowlbacks and flatbacks have that scale as well. I don't have any problem switching between the two scale lengths -- I have mandolins with both. Many classical players prefer the shorter scale length.

    I am not sure why you are considering the shorter scale unless there is a good reason.
    Jim

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  11. #8
    Registered User Les Corley's Avatar
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    Default Re: scale length

    Jim I'm wondering if there's a good reason why I should'nt

  12. #9

    Default Re: scale length

    I think the real question is what are you hoping to achieve by using a shorter scale length?

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    Default Re: scale length

    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry Krishna View Post
    with the 13 inch scale, it was more in the toy category than a real mandolin.
    That may have been how it felt in your hands, being accustomed to a longer scale, but 13" (approx.) is pretty much standard for bowlbacks - and European pre-WWII mandolins in general. I think a lot of classical mandolinists would take offence at having their instrument called a 'toy' .

  14. #11
    Registered User mandogerry's Avatar
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    Default Re: scale length

    I was lucky enough to grab a 13" scale Keith Newell mandolin with a nice narrow violinlike neck on the Cafe recently -- FYI, this is equal to a full-sized violin/fiddle scale, and I don't consider those instruments "toys"! This mandolin's tone is superb and it has a very large voice. Classical mandolins and many other mandolins from the early 20th Century also have shorter scales.

    After several years of struggling to stretch my small short fingers to do chords and pinky fingering on an old Gibson A with a chunky neck and a longer scale, I realize what an advantage those boys with big hands had on their mandolins. And it's kind of funny to watch my friends with "standard-sized hands", who want to try my new mandolin, struggle to navigate the smaller fretboard.

    Several excellent women fiddlers I know have gone recently from full-sized to 3/4 sized violins for the same reason (although at some point even small hands obviously can't fit onto a reduced scale). But, for what it's worth, I can navigate an Irish tenor banjo (20" scale and wider neck) with no problem if I shift my whole hand up and down when needed. Go figure.

    Moral of the story is, one size does not fit all.

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    Default Re: scale length

    Quote Originally Posted by OldSausage View Post
    I think the real question is what are you hoping to achieve by using a shorter scale length?
    Yes. If you want to reproduce something close to the Stromberg, then I think you should use whatever scale length was used on the original; if it worked in 1920, then it will work just as well now. A shorter scale length will undoubtedly feel and sound different, but isn't that the whole point of building a different kind of mandolin?

  16. #13
    Registered User Les Corley's Avatar
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    Default Re: scale length

    Whistler. Yes I want to reproduce something close to the Stromberg with a little bit of my own input. I've built A's F's & Lyon & Healy style & I've always loved the looks of the Stromberg. I know they are'nt very popular but I want it for myself. I lean more toward the classical side & I've always had someone that wanted to buy my mandolins so maybe I'll be able to keep this one. I want to thank everyone for your input this is such a great place for anyone wanting to learn anything about the mandolin. Thanks Les

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