John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
Last edited by Pete Jenner; Mar-11-2013 at 1:19pm. Reason: Added some muck.
Yes, that is for the Ugly Side of Luthierie thread.
Jim
My Stream on Soundcloud
19th Century Tunes
Playing lately:
1924 Gibson A4 - 2018 Campanella A-5 - 2007 Brentrup A4C - 1915 Frank Merwin Ashley violin - Huss & Dalton DS - 1923 Gibson A2 black snakehead - '83 Flatiron A5-2 - 1939 Gibson L-00 - 1936 Epiphone Deluxe - 1928 Gibson L-5 - ca. 1890s Fairbanks Senator Banjo - ca. 1923 Vega Style M tenor banjo - ca. 1920 Weymann Style 25 Mandolin-Banjo - National RM-1
I actually am thankful for that photo, John. So many of our builders post (expertly composed and exposed) photos of immaculate instruments perfectly finished and completely drool worthy (like yours), tis refreshing to see one in progress looking like a work in progress!
There are two things to aim at in life: first, to get what you want; and, after that, to enjoy it. Only the wisest of mankind achieve the second. Logan Pearsall Smith, 1865 - 1946
+ Give Blood, Save a Life +
". . . so, you're saying your mandolins AREN'T available with fingerboards in 'Frog Tape' green with matching frets ? ? ? "
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
that blue one is stunning!
Not sure if its dark blue or black, but I agree, "stunning" is the word. Reminds me of Hans Brentrup's "blackburst." Gorgeous flame on the right too.
Big ole pile of wood destined to become a batch of mandolas............
batch of mandolas......boy, Max, you are very ambitious.
"your posts ... very VERY opinionated ...basing your opinion/recommendations ... pot calling ...kettle... black...sarcasm...comment ...unwarranted...unnecessary...."
Joining tops with hide glue. A quick pass over the jointer, then a little hand planing, inspection for a light tight joint then glueing the plates with the rubbed joint technique.
Nah, you can do better than that! (...worse than that?)
No glue squeeze-out, no gouges or sanding scratches, no blood spots...
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
Martin,
would you mind explaining how you attach your top/back to the sides? I've heard that end grain doesn't make the strongest glue joint. Are you using some sort of support inside other than the end blocks?
Micah
I purchased a CNC a little over a year ago. After 300 hours of learning cad and cam programs as well as machine operation and hold down methods, I'm at the point where if I can think it I can make it. First shot is my outside carving vacuum fixture. Next is the vacuum pump I'm running to pull the plate to the fixture, next the roughing pass, then a "finishing" pass. The jig is switched out to one that will hold the plate upside down and level, and the inside is hogged out. I leave the plates on the thick side to allow for final shaping by hand and hand graduation. This is actually the top profile I'm cutting on a piece of maple that I'll be using for a top secret experiment later in the year.
Next I hand graduate the plate using finger planes followed by a sanding. Then I'll check the plate flexing it and seeing how it feels. I'll then continue on with the scrapers until the plate feels right. I'm not even concerned with graduation numbers at this point, just getting it until it feels right depending on the piece of wood I'm using. Next I'll stick the plate in my tonebar fitting jig I made. I'll cut some bar stock, then band saw it to approximate shape. I then use a bearing and a pencil to get accurate plate profiles drawn on the bar and saw and sand close to shape. Then the bar is loaded into the jig. Pony clamps hold the bar from sliding back and forth and rubber bands provide just enough pressure to hold the bar stock down.
I'll then take some 80 grit stikit, with a paper backing applied and run it under the bar. After a few passes I get close, but not close enough. There can be no gaps at all. The next pic shows the bar after it has been sanded to 220. The plate is also sanded to 220 in just the spot that the tone bar meets. After I'm sure I've got a good fit, I'll rotate the jig to the next tonebar position and repeat. I glue up the tonebars with hot hide glue in a go bar deck. The second to last photo with the go bars just shows a dry fit to ensure I don't have any gaps. The last photo is of my go bar deck with the jig I made to hold the plate upside down and flat along with the go bars, my glue pot and a heat gun to warm the parts prior to glueing.
Slick work, Max! Nice fixtures, and great refinement of the Tom Ribbecke tone bar fitting technique.
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