Bridge fuzz

[Palamedes]

Hey guys.. So I'm brand new to the mandolin. I picked up an inexpensive one and am looking to learn to play.

I unwrapped the instrument and am in the process of tuning it, when I noticed there is what I can only describe as a plastic fuzzy stuff under the bridge.. (between the bridge and the soundboard)

Is this something that was only meant to stay on during shipping and should be removed? Or should I leave it there?

Sorry if this is a dumb question..

[strings777]

Never heard of that before, but yes, I would remove the plastic fuzzy stuff. It will dampen the sound and not transmit the vibrations as well. Welcome to the Cafe!

[Folkmusician.com]

It sounds like the thin foam strip often under the bridge as they come from the factory. If so, it is the material they usually use the for bag the mandolin is in. At any rate, this would be to protect the top from being scratched by the bridge and should be removed. This is also a good sign that your mandolin has probably not been setup and may have some playability issues. Mandolins rarely play well as they come from the factory.

[Palamedes]

Hey guys thanks.. I'll remove it presently..

And it could have horrible playing issues and I wont know..haha I'm very new to this.. Once I get a little time under my belt I'll probably learn the issues and sort it out..

Can you give me an idea of what kind of issues it might have as a new mandolin? Thanks again..

[strings777]

Usually the string slots in the nut are too high from the factory and need to be filed down to make it easier to fret, and the bridge needs to be fitted to the top better if you see any light underneath the feet of the bridge for best sound transmission. Also, bridge placement is very important for intonation...a good starting place is in between the middle of the f holes. Here is a link that will help you get started: http://frets.com/FRETSPages/Musician...dostring1.html

[allenhopkins]

...Can you give me an idea of what kind of issues it might have as a new mandolin?...

I should let Robert answer this; his expertise far exceeds mine. Some obvious ones, however:

1. Bridge is mis-located, too near the neck or too near the tailpiece. Strings don't intonate properly. Check whether the note you get when you fret each course of strings at the 12th (octave) fret, sounds the same as the "harmonic" (the little "ringy" note you get when you just touch the string lightly above the fret, then pick it). If the fretted note's higher, bridge's too close to the neck; lower, too far away. Or, check the octave note with an electronic tuner.

2. "Action" (distance of the strings above the fretboard) is too high (very hard to fret the strings), or too low (strings rattle or buzz, due to hitting frets above where they're fretted). Bridge height adjustment (those little knurled wheels) can help this, but sometimes adjustment at the nut is required as well -- a job for a pro, IMHO.

3. "Relief" (the slight curvature of the neck needed to keep strings "clear" of the fretboard), is either too little or too much, requiring adjustment of the truss rod. Definitely a job for a pro, IMHO.

4. The strings put on at the factory are poop, or close to poop, and need to be replaced with real strings that sound good. Ever seen those odd little no-name batteries that come in some imported electronic gear, and have to be replaced after 30 minutes' use, or else start leaking within two days? Factory strings may be the musical equivalent.

Shop-adjusting, and restringing if needed, a new mandolin is what good instrument dealers do. (Yeah, and they take the clear plastic stickum off the pickguard, and the little bits of foam from under the bridge feet.) Adds a bit to the price, though not as much as taking it to a repair tech after buying it and getting the same service. Taking mandolins out of large shipping crates, putting them in smaller boxes, and sending them to customers at a low price, is what gigundous on-line dealers do. Pays your money, takes your choice.