Looking for opinions on the best Asian made Mandolin for $2500

[mandroid]

Saga Imports their Kentucky brand sequentially over time from Japan , then Korea and then China ..

Eastman trained a lot of people to hand make Mandolins. and violins for their Orchestras

China was, after all, making high quality wooden products while the US was making log Cabins..





....

[MikeEdgerton]

$250 or $2500? I’m seeing both numbers here: $2500 on thread title and $250 down in the thread. Weird.

The $250 appears because the title is maxing out the listing length on the page. If you scroll to the top of the thread you'll see the $2500. He didn't enter two different numbers.

[Mandoplumb]

I bought a Kentucky A - 900 to ,be a decent mandolin to take camping or where I didn't want to take my Dearstone ( I hate calling any instrument a beater). For that bluegrass sound it beats the 'stone. I don't know if I just got a good one or if they all sound this good, but since it's been played a while it is unbelievable good. It's so grassy sounding I sound like Bill when I play it (not) but it is a great mandolin. Now I have to convince my wife I need another one to take camping or where I don't want to take the Dearstone or the Kentucky. If they are all like this it is the mandolin to have for bluegrass unless you want to spend &150,000 for a Loar.

[Caleb]

The $250 appears because the title is maxing out the listing length on the page. If you scroll to the top of the thread you'll see the $2500. He didn't enter two different numbers.

Ha! Makes sense. In that case, Northfield all the way.

[Phil Goodson]

I'd also look at the Kentucky 1050 for $1k in the classifieds today.

Otherwise, any Northfield S model would be good.

[Br1ck]

The Kentucky master vs F5S is a worthy dilemma. The Kentucky master series are very good. You need to add a grand to get better. But that grand will not be wasted. That was the conclusion I came to when I once got to play them side by side.

The choice is a hard one, but buy used and the upgrade will be fairly painless. There is a real market for either.

[Tonear]

Northfield
The least expensive Collings A, called the MT.
T

[Pilot172000]

A Ratliff Country Boy is around $2,000. For a mandolin handmade in Tenn that’s a steal.

[DigitalSky]

So my issue with the Northfield is that the cheaper (if it can even be called that) F5 model doesn't have a bound neck or headstock. It looks a bit off to me that the body is bound, but the neck and headstock are not. Obviously that's just a cosmetic gripe, but I hear for the more expensive "Artist" models, with the full binding. It really looks a lot better that way in my opinion.

That's probably just me being snobby though. I have a thing for fully bound guitars, I think it just completes the look, especially on a fine instrument with F-holes.

I could go with an A-shape, yes, but again, I go back to cosmetics. I really like the look of the scroll and all the little appointments they have on those models.

I've been listening to a lot of sound clips though (if that even amounts to anything) and I'm really digging the KM-1500 sound. It would be nice if there was a shop near me that carried more than just one or two mandolins, but alas, there isn't. The good thing however is that most places these days seem to have a pretty good return policy where if you don't like the instrument you can return it in a reasonable amount of time.

- - - Updated - - -

DigitalSky, I have to ask you about your forum name. I'm familiar with software by that name.

Oh, nothing to do with the software. My business is http://digitalskydesign.com, so the forum username was taken from my business name.

[George R. Lane]

I’m a guitar player who has discovered a love for Mandolin. I’m looking to purchase my first Mandolin, but I’m not really wanting to shell out the money on a Collings or similar American made Mandolin.

My ideal Mandolin would be around $2500, F-style, with F-holes. The two that have caught my eye are the Eastman MD815 and the Kentucky KM-1500. Both seem like great mandolins.

It’s worth mentioning that the type of music I’m mainly interested in playing is classic Bluegrass.

I will add a bit and say that I own a lot of cool guitars from Gibson, Collings, Ibanez, and Eastman. However, the two guitars I end up playing more than any others are my Eastman AR805CE (and amazing solid wood jazz box) and my Ibanez EKM100, which is better than any 335 I’ve ever played. I’m only putting that out there because in my honest opinion, the Japanese and Chinese can actually make some very, very fine instruments. If Eastman mandolins are anywhere near as good as my Eastman guitar, I would be blown away.

As for the Kentucky KM-1500, I’m not sure where they are made or how their reputation is. They don’t seem to have a dedicated website like Eastman.

Anyways, I’m hoping some of you might be kind enough to share your opinions and let me know if perhaps there’s another brand I am overlooking.

Here is a used Northfield; https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/129308#129308

Another;https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/129223#129223

Remember extra binding does not equate to better tone.

[DigitalSky]

Oh no, don't get me wrong... I don't think binding has anything to do with tone, I'm not that stupid.

I was just saying that I'm a sucker for that fully bound look.

[DigitalSky]

Seems like the Kentucky KM-1050 is also another good option. Though aside from cosmetics, I can't tell what the differences are between it and the KM-1500.

[cap217]

Lots of differences but mostly the 1050 has a radiused board and modern frets and nut width. Being in the same position as you are I would recommend playing as many as you can and see what specs to like. I found that I wanted a radiused board with larger frets. The wider nut is a modern touch as well.

[DigitalSky]

I can tell you that at least as far as guitar is concerned, I find myself a fan of fat neck, wide nuts, radiused fret boards, and large frets. So perhaps those more modern features of the 1050 would be welcomed.

[Mandobart]

If your budget is $2500 you have a choice of many imports and hand-made in the US options, especially if you're considering buying used. There have already been some great links to the classified offerings above.

[ccravens]

I'm not trying to anger anyone here, but in all honesty, with a budget of $2500, I can't imagine purchasing a Kentucky.

Especially with all of the other American-made options listed on this thread.

[Mandoplumb]

I'm not trying to anger anyone here, but in all honesty, with a budget of $2500, I can't imagine purchasing a Kentucky.Especially with all of the other American-made options listed on this thread.

When I started playing 50 years ago the worst you could say about an instrument was " it sounds like it was made in Japan" that is no longer true. There is no real advantage to American made other than political. I'd put my Kentucky up against any mandolin I've played in the $2500 range and a lot well beyond.

[Br1ck]

I'm still waiting to find one of the special Kentuckys people here talk about. I have no doubt they exist, I just haven't played one.

What I have experienced is a pac rim inexpensive instrument that got better with playing. But every Northfield F 5S I've played, five or six now, was to me worth the $1000 over the new Kentucky I played. Was it leaps and bounds better? No. Was the Kentucky a better looking instrument? From the standpoint of binding, inlay and gloss, yes.

But I felt I would have regretted getting the Kentucky I played. YMMV. This is why a road trip is so valuable if you don't have a well stocked store. My experience was gained at The Mandolin Store. I went there just for this comparison. Then they put an F9 in my hands, then an MF. I must say if I was a total grasser, the Gibson was the ticket. This mandolin thing just escalates.

[Bob Clark]

I don't really see the value in polling other peoples' opinions on which instrument is 'best', other than the entertainment value. Nobody's opinion other than your own matters. You see in these posts that almost any instrument can come up as one person's favorite and another's dog. Both are valid opinions.

The only way to get the right instrument for you is to play as many as possible and choose the one you deem best. Depending on where you live, that may be difficult. But truly, only your opinion matters. This is not a consensus decision, as no consensus exists. Buy what you like, play the heck out of it. When it no longer appeals to you, again, buy what you like.

Good luck and enjoy the journey!

[itstooloudMike]

I am also a longtime guitar player, with an ear for good tone, and an appreciation for a smooth playing instrument. I had an Eastman 815 for a while, and was never satisfied with the sound or playability. I did eventually learn that I vastly prefer a radius fret-board and larger frets. I also like a rounded neck profile, rather than a deep V profile. My quest for tone and playability led me to Weber mandolins. You can find nice used Bitteroot F-styles for $2500 or less. These are great American-made mandolins. Make sure to get one with maple back and sides rather than mahogany. I had a Bitteroot with mahogany back, and the tone wasn't as "bluegrass" as I wanted. I then got a Bitteroot A-style with maple back, and it was awesome. Used Webers are often a great investment, and a lifetime instrument. I never lost any money from owning a Weber (always purchased used). My current mandolin is a Summit F-style, which I love. These can also be bought for $2500 or less. The Summit plays very much like a Weber, and sounds very much like a Gibson. It's an awesome bluegrass mandolin. Neither of my Webers or my Summit have neck or headstock binding, but I personally like the more understated appearance. My goal was always to get the best sounding and playing bluegrass mandolin I could, for $2500 or less. With that budget, I would not be looking for a Pac-Rim mandolin. The smart money is with a used American-made mandolin, from a well-known maker. There are lots of those between $2K and $2.5K. And don't overlook a nice A-style. If you really have to have fancy binding, there are some beautiful A-styles out there for $2K.

[DigitalSky]

When I started playing 50 years ago the worst you could say about an instrument was " it sounds like it was made in Japan" that is no longer true. There is no real advantage to American made other than political. I'd put my Kentucky up against any mandolin I've played in the $2500 range and a lot well beyond.

X2 to this. Anyone who insists American made is better is living in the twilight zone. Maybe 20 years ago that was true, but nowadays there's simply no truth to that.

Now that's not to say that an American made mandolin can't be just as good as an asian made one, but that goes both ways. Any country is capable of building a great instrument. What matters is that the person building it knows what their doing, has the passion for doing it, and has the attention to detail.

Obviously I don't want to start a political debate. I do love supporting "made in the USA" as much as I can, but when I look at the price of some of these Collings for 10k or so, I laugh. I'm sorry, but I wouldn't even want to play an instrument that expensive out of fear of dropping it or damaging it (or getting it stolen). Maybe it I was filthy rich I guess, but like the majority of people, I'm just an average middle class guy.

[DigitalSky]

I am also a longtime guitar player, with an ear for good tone, and an appreciation for a smooth playing instrument. I had an Eastman 815 for a while, and was never satisfied with the sound or playability. I did eventually learn that I vastly prefer a radius fret-board and larger frets. I also like a rounded neck profile, rather than a deep V profile. My quest for tone and playability led me to Weber mandolins. You can find nice used Bitteroot F-styles for $2500 or less. These are great American-made mandolins. Make sure to get one with maple back and sides rather than mahogany. I had a Bitteroot with mahogany back, and the tone wasn't as "bluegrass" as I wanted. I then got a Bitteroot A-style with maple back, and it was awesome. Used Webers are often a great investment, and a lifetime instrument. I never lost any money from owning a Weber (always purchased used). My current mandolin is a Summit F-style, which I love. These can also be bought for $2500 or less. The Summit plays very much like a Weber, and sounds very much like a Gibson. It's an awesome bluegrass mandolin. Neither of my Webers or my Summit have neck or headstock binding, but I personally like the more understated appearance. My goal was always to get the best sounding and playing bluegrass mandolin I could, for $2500 or less. With that budget, I would not be looking for a Pac-Rim mandolin. The smart money is with a used American-made mandolin, from a well-known maker. There are lots of those between $2K and $2.5K. And don't overlook a nice A-style. If you really have to have fancy binding, there are some beautiful A-styles out there for $2K.

Interesting, I heard the Eastman 815 has a radius fretboard. I don't know about the fret size, but if they are smaller, that would be a negative as I like larger frets.

I've been looking at some American made mandolins, but I'm pretty insistent on the F-style with the scroll and F-holes. I realize I could get an A-style for cheaper, but the looks just don't do it for me, so that is part of the equation as well.

[DigitalSky]

What's the consensus on a 1996 Flatiron F5 Master signed by Bruce Weber?

Now I'm suddenly increasing my spending budget... even though I shouldn't. I keep telling myself... "Well, I could spend 4k if I really wanted to".

[Michael Neverisky]

...Oh, nothing to do with the software. My business is http://digitalskydesign.com, so the forum username was taken from my business name.

Oh, I see. You might be amused to know that there is planetarium control software by that name.

[Steve Sorensen]

http://www.mandomutt.com/products-pa...y-kentucky-f-5

If I were searching the digital sky for mandolins, I'd call Skip Kelley and ask for his take on this one. Sure is interesting and hits a lot of the right buttons.

Steve