Need a bridge for Kentucky KM-270

[StevenWayne]

Just bought it, can't wait to play it. Mint, brand new except for damaged bridge. I can probably repair the bridge to be usable, but I would like to find another bridge. I see plenty available on ebay from China, which is probably close to original, but is there an upgrade bridge that is available somewhere? Has to be a radiused saddle. The mando has never been played from what I can see. It's a 2017 model with a serial starting with "1711".

By the way, I just got a 2011 KM-160 several days ago but this 270 popped up, and it is almost exactly the mando I was looking for to begin with. I really wanted a KM-276 with the brown finish, or perhaps a 272 with the amber finish. But I got this 270 for about half off from new price because it needs a bridge. Only thing is, I promished the wife I'd liquidate the KM-160 plus some other instruments if she said yes to the KM-270. No problem, I need to sell some anyway.

[Folkmusician.com]

Cumberland Acoustic will sell just a saddle. You may need to do some wood removal (foot side) to get the needed adjustment range. It just depends n the particular mandolin. Changing the whole bridge would be better, but requires fitting and the 270 arching makes it a bit of a chore.

[mandolin tony]

a Cumberland would be a good upgrade, but only if you buy the whole bridge not just the saddle. good luck with your Kentucky. it's a lot of bang for the buck.

[Br1ck]

You might get six months from a repaired saddle, but from day one you will be living on borrowed time. You need to make sure the holes are spaced correctly if you opt to just replace the saddle. Cumberland acoustics makes a very nice bridge. If you are keeping the mandolin for a while it's a good investment.

[B381]

If money is a concern.....although I have zero experience with these.

https://www.amazon.com/Golden-Gate-M.../dp/B005N5USYU

[Roger Moss]

If money is a concern.....although I have zero experience with these.

https://www.amazon.com/Golden-Gate-M.../dp/B005N5USYU

Remember it will still need fitting by a pro.

[Br1ck]

Remember it will still need fitting by a pro.

I disagree. Get Rob Meldrum's eBook and anyone taking care can do this as well as the rest of a setup. Heck, I even learned how to level and dress frets, though that takes some specialty tools.

[Roger Moss]

I disagree. Get Rob Meldrum's eBook and anyone taking care can do this as well as the rest of a setup. Heck, I even learned how to level and dress frets, though that takes some specialty tools.

For a Golden Gate, probably yeah. But if I spent $75 on a Cumberland, I'd want it done right.

[Br1ck]

My Michael Kelly 199.00 solid wood mandolin's bridge was so bad it was like starting from scratch. I got it to fit right. My second was a CA I fitted to my Arches kit. If you can learn from reading and watching videos, you can do this.

[Ivan Kelsall]

There's no substitute for ''the best''. I'd buy & fit a ''Cumberland Acoustic'' bridge to any half decent mandolin,only then will you have given it ''the best chance to speak''.

As for fitting a bridge - it's easy !!. I'd only had my first 'good' mandolin for a couple of weeks ( i'd only had ANY mandolion for about 6 weeks total) before i fitted a new CA bridge to it. I'd never fitted a bridge before,but if you think about what needs to be done, & in that i mean protecting the top of the mandolin as well - it's a doddle !. Not only did i fit the base almost perfectly to the top = time consuming. I also had to contour the saddle top because i'd bought a flat top bridge & my mandolin had a radiused f/board = the ONLY CA bridge available. I then had to cut the nut slots inthe newly contoured top. I did it all. It took around 4 1/2 hours but it was 'right'. ( Remember to mark the top of the base with the bass / treble sides - G / E - so that it goes on the correct way round.)

The only thing that i did which seemed against the standard method of fitting a bridge,was to sand the base from 'side to side' instead of back & forth. That way,the bridge base stayed absolutely flat.(you remove the saddle of course, & hold the base). I posted that on here after i'd joined (i'd never heard of the Cafe at that time),& found that several folk did exactly the same,for the same reason.The well known & respected buildr,Gail Hester was amongst them. A year or so a go,i found this You Tube clip of Wayne Henderson finishing off a mandolin. Zip along to 4.50 mins & Mr Henderson does the same. Doing it that way is every bit as good as doing it the other way. You don't need any jig to do it & the base will stay 'flat'. There's no chance at all of rounding the front & back edges off,which is why you need some method of holding the bridge upright ie.a sanding jig. IMHO - Those jigs are fine if you're going to be fitting a lot of bridges,but for what might be a 'one off',it's a waste of cash,
Ivan

PS - Protecting the top :- Mark where the bridge is going to sit = where the old one is,using a wax crayon. Cover that area with a sheet of thin paper held down using low-tack masking tape. Stick your sand paper OR wet & dry paper (preferable) to the paper, NOT the top. That will help to prevent any particles of abrasive paper from getting under the paper itself & scratching the finish.
Take your time & think every step through & you'll do a terrific job. It takes time as you need to constantly check the contour (obvious) - but it isn't hard at all.

[StevenWayne]

For a Golden Gate, probably yeah. But if I spent $75 on a Cumberland, I'd want it done right.

This morning I ordered a Cumberland Acoustic bridge, plus the sanding jig, or holder, whatever it's called, so if I take my time and follow the instructions it should be done right. So I'm excited to do the work. I did glue up the original, broken bridge and tuned the mandolin real low, nowhere near up to pitch, but I can tell it's going to be good. I know it's a Chinese mandolin, but this KM-270 looks like it has flawless craftsmanship and a decent grade of figured maple. The finish is really nice. You can tell it's not built up too thick. The nitro has shrunk into the grain of the wood a little bit and there isn't nearly as much build-up at the neck/body junction as on the 2011 KM-160. This 270 is my 3rd Kentucky. I had a 2010 KM-150, then the 160, now the 270.

And thank you all for your suggestions.

[Roger Moss]

This morning I ordered a Cumberland Acoustic bridge, plus the sanding jig, or holder, whatever it's called, so if I take my time and follow the instructions it should be done right.

Shucks (or something stronger). I didn't even know they had one of those. At half the cost of a pro job, this puts a Cumberland within my wheelhouse. Thanks for the heads up.

[Folkmusician.com]

I know some people like the jig..... I have the StewMac version, but find it easier/more precise to do it by hand. Nothing wrong with using the Jig, but I would say that it is optional. Especially if you are not doing quite a few bridges.

[StevenWayne]

I know some people like the jig..... I have the StewMac version, but find it easier/more precise to do it by hand. Nothing wrong with using the Jig, but I would say that it is optional. Especially if you are not doing quite a few bridges.

With my particular brand of "chainsaw luthier" talent, it's better that I ordered the jig. Probably. Oh, I've fixed guitars, sometimes done very well. But I've messed up too.

[colorado_al]

With my particular brand of "chainsaw luthier" talent, it's better that I ordered the jig. Probably. Oh, I've fixed guitars, sometimes done very well. But I've messed up too.

I've heard of people playing the saw, but never playing the chainsaw. How do you build a musical chainsaw. I bet you'd better be super careful with the bending part. It must really chew through bow-hair.

[rcc56]

If you use a sanding jig, place a thin sheet of paper between the sandpaper and the top, and a thicker piece of paper beneath the sanding jig's wheel to avoid marking the top.

[StevenWayne]

I received my package from Cumberland Acoustic this morning. The bridge and sanding fixture are beautifully made, pro packaged as well. Can't wait to begin work on fitting it but I can't do it today. I opted for the full contact foot. They got my order out quickly and I had it in hand in only 5 days. I was only slightly impatient.

[Br1ck]

Have fun. Doing your own work is rewarding, and it gives you the understanding that Luthier's really don't generally overcharge.

[StevenWayne]

OK, i have the bridge fitted and tuned up with new strings. Its not perfect, yet. On the G end of the bridge I can slide a thin piece of paper under the end of the foot, for about 1/4 inch. A business card won't go, but a thin piece of paper will. The mandolin sounds sweet and plays very well. It has the nicest fretboard and fretwork of any of the three Kentuckys I've owned. No leveling is needed. I had an older KM-150 a while back and it was a good mandolin, after I pulled all the frets, planed the fretboard and refetted with new wire. This 2017 KM-270 needs none of that and I am loving the crowned fretboard.

[colorado_al]

The current Kentucky 200 level models are really good. Enjoy!

[Br1ck]

You can finish the fitting with the next string change. Do you notice a difference?