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Thread: creating a tailpiece.

  1. #26

    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    I don't expect the tone to be any different, to be honest, . I've heard that a more solid or heavier tailpiece give you more sustain, but the sustain on my Eastman with the stamped tailpiece is great already. The only tone change I'd expect, if I'm being honest, would be negative simply from my error.

    As for forging it, The forging would probably honestly just be the major bends and any engraving I felt like doing. I might could make a chisel for scooping out metal to be used for the hooks to put the strings on but that may be beyond my skill. A pretty copper wire inlay might look nice, but that is definitely beyond my skill at the moment. I think that a hammered finish with maybe a simple pattern or engraving would look the best because it would capture the "forged" nature of it while looking good and not being super hard to pull off!
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  3. #27
    Registered User sblock's Avatar
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    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    You should certainly consider making your own mandolin tailpiece as a way to express yourself artistically, or to challenge your own skills with an interesting project. It would not wind up saving you any money, though, even if you value your time cheaply! There are too many lower-cost options out there that would work perfectly well.

    That said, I would not hold out any hope that changing the tailpiece will improve the tone of your mandolin much, if at all. Yes, a badly designed or made tailpiece can rattle or buzz, or break ... or make it very inconvenient to change out the strings. But basically, any decently constructed tailpiece that doesn't give those problems -- and this includes plenty of traditional, stamped designs, too! -- can work perfectly well for your mandolin. There is very little evidence, in fact, that the tailpiece exerts very much of an effect on the instrument's tone. I realize that some folks on the MC may write in to disagree with this proposition, but my feeling is that the weight of expert opinion and experience is not on their side.

    For a traditional look, no buzzing, and fast, trouble-free string changes, it's pretty hard to beat the James tailpiece design with its hinged cover (which is never lost) and o-ring string dampers. But some of the cast tailpieces, like the Allen and Monteleone designs, run a close second, IMO. The Weber cast design, by contrast, is a bear to change strings, and I don't recommend copying anything like it. A forged design could certainly work, but you'd need to work hard to keep the weight down. Also, you'd need to give a little thought as to how you'd adjust it, after installation, to be at just the correct angle to the bridge. Some of the cast designs leave a lot to be desired in this aspect of things.

  4. #28

    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    My plan now is to use brass (probably melted from bullet casings I have laying around) and just have fun with the design, and if I don't like it just melt it down and try again haha. Whenever I get home for a weekend to my shop (I'm in college so I don't get to work there often) I'll post pictures of what I end up making. It could be weeks though.
    Just me and my Eastman MD315!
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  6. #29
    Mangler of Tunes OneChordTrick's Avatar
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    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    Good luck, I’m looking forward to seeing the results.

  7. #30
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    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    I owned a dental lab, and worked at the bench, for 35 years. The laser sintered alloys have improved significantly over the years. Early versions were not as dense as cast. Always wanted to try blacksmithing. Go for it.

  8. #31

    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    You should try blacksmithing! It's actually not that hard or expensive to get into. It seems like you need more than you actually do. Just a block of steel, a hammer, a forge (you can easily make your own, as I did my first one, for under $40), and some poor piece of steel to beat on.
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  9. #32
    Registered User mreidsma's Avatar
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    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    A lot of University or College Libraries have Makerspaces, too, with 3D printing and often support people to help you get your files made. At the library where I work, we even have a 3D scanner, so you could theoretically scan your tailpiece. Never tried it, but it's possible.

  10. #33

    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    we have a makerspace here, and we do have 3d printers, but we don't have any printers capable of laser. Maybe a larger college would?
    Just me and my Eastman MD315!
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  11. #34
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    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    Quote Originally Posted by ImTheMan_do View Post
    we have a makerspace here, and we do have 3d printers, but we don't have any printers capable of laser. Maybe a larger college would?
    If you can make a 3d model you now have a pattern for a lost wax type casting. I think I'd rather have a cast part than a sintered.

  12. #35

    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    Quote Originally Posted by ajh View Post
    If you can make a 3d model you now have a pattern for a lost wax type casting. I think I'd rather have a cast part than a sintered.
    That's true. I'm sure there are plenty of 3d printing filaments out there that are made just for that.
    Just me and my Eastman MD315!
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  13. #36
    Registered User Walt's Avatar
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    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    Quote Originally Posted by ajh View Post
    If you can make a 3d model you now have a pattern for a lost wax type casting. I think I'd rather have a cast part than a sintered.
    I know at least some of the 3-D printing companies use lost wax casting for some of their materials. This, for example.

  14. #37
    coprolite mandroid's Avatar
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    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ivan Kelsall View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Prucha Tailpiece.jpg 
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    Yes James is 1st cast then finish machined on a CNC mill. and engraved with another program.

    Metalsmithing 101;
    non ferrous metals can be forged cold, then once work hardened, get annealed ,
    then when cool, forged further.

    And, steel is of course forged hot. Beneath Spreading Chestnut tree , optional.
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  16. #38
    Certified! Bernie Daniel's Avatar
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    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hanson View Post
    A lot of happy Gibson owners out there [ including me ] would disagree with the original posters silly statement that cast tailpieces are ' always ' better than stamped ones.

    Dave H
    I don't think the OP's declaration was "silly" -- rather it was an opinion. And he might not have mean functionally superior but merely more desirable?

    One thing worth consideration though about a cast tail piece is that the string break angle over the bridge is locked in so it better be correct in the casting because there is no bending cast metals for adjustment? The "standard" Gibson-style stamped TP is adjustable in that regard.
    Bernie
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  17. #39
    Registered User jim simpson's Avatar
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    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bernie Daniel View Post
    I don't think the OP's declaration was "silly" -- rather it was an opinion. And he might not have mean functionally superior but merely more desirable?

    One thing worth consideration though about a cast tail piece is that the string break angle over the bridge is locked in so it better be correct in the casting because there is no bending cast metals for adjustment? The "standard" Gibson-style stamped TP is adjustable in that regard.
    Bernie, Although the James is cast, it is also angle adjustable. It is quite ingenious in design as to this feature.
    Old Hometown, Cabin Fever String Band

  18. #40
    Registered User sunburst's Avatar
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    Default Re: creating a tailpiece.

    Cast metal can be bent to some extent. Some alloys more than others. Many cast tailpieces (including mine) can be adjusted by slight bending.

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