New bridge repair

[CentralCT]

I recently purchased a Breedlove Crossover OF only slightly used. I was proud of it until my mando teacher pointed out that the G-strings were muted (unexpectedly quiet). Later in the day, I examined the bridge (assumed to be the original) by eye and by feel. The E's, A's, and D's were deeply embedded in the hardwood, but the G's were perched high across its top. Using a StewMac 0.035" saw, I deepened the G slots appropriately (groove depth equal to string diameter), and Voila!, the sound had improved 100%! It would appear that the mando went to its first owner in the previous condition. I surmise that he didn't like it, so he sold.

Bill at Central Connecticut Mandolin Rescue

[Bill Romansky]

Great move. I would take the top down until I had just a little groove exposed. This will reduce a bit of mass, and probably not past the point of diminishing returns.

[Skip Kelley]

Welcome to the cafe'!

[pops1]

I agree about taking the top of the bridge down so the strings are not embedded in the saddle. they should have 1/2 to 1/3 of the string above. You maybe changed the angle to a better on with the strings coming off the front of the bridge, now make it so none are embedded.

[HoGo]

Strings don't care what's above their heads but what they touch especially under. You want the slot ever slightly inclined towards tailpiece (or towards headstock in the nut) so the leading edge is seated firmly otherwise the string will be muted or will buzz. The final depth of slots is mostly aesthetic thing.

[Mandoplumb]

If it mutes the string laying across the bridge why wouldn't wood all the way around the string mute it? I always make the string ride at the fingerboard end of bridge or nut to ensure that they are exactly the same length for intonation.