Re: Dobro Mandolin setup
Not familiar with all the brands you're considering, but I'd stick to lighter gauges. I have them on my '30's Dobro mandolin.
You could get a custom-built cover plate with a lower profile, at least the part "in front" of the bridge. Have you replaced the bridge saddle with a compensated one? I have the original, un-compensated saddle still on mine, and there are some (minor) intonation issues. Not enough to make me go after a compensated saddle, but if it were my main instrument (it's not), I might be considering having a compensated saddle made.
The resonator/spider bridge configuration doesn't allow for any relocation of the bridge; it's in one place, and it's going to stay there. There may be a tiny bit of "wiggle room" sliding the entire spider assembly toward or away from the neck, but it's minuscule. We resonator mandolin players pretty much live with the set-ups the instruments come with, though your neck re-set may have given you improved playing action. Did it have any effect on the intonation? Lower action generally means the strings aren't stretched as much when you press them to the fretboard, which may make the notes a bit flatter than before.
Allen Hopkins
Gibsn: '54 F5 3pt F2 A-N Custm K1 m'cello
Natl Triolian Dobro mando
Victoria b-back Merrill alumnm b-back
H-O mandolinetto
Stradolin Vega banjolin
Sobell'dola Washburn b-back'dola
Eastmn: 615'dola 805 m'cello
Flatiron 3K OM
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