First Mandolin

[Ukulele Player]

I am an Ukulele player.
I’m considering purchasing a Mandolin to expand my inventory. Why?
I have a standard uke, a cut-away (allows me access to the entire fret board),
a banjo-lele (sounds like a banjo and an 8 string (has low and high strings)

I could buy a Mandolin-lele but it wouldn’t truly sound like a mandolin, which is what I like and want.

A ukulele is strung GCEA while a mandolin is strung GDAE. I do not want to learn those fingerings, but, if I re-string a mandolin to GDDA, I can adjust the D strings one step each way and it will play exactly like a low G ukulele - GCEA.
And if I use one Mandolin E string, I can play like a ukulele and enjoy the whole range and sound of a mandolin.

So as I investigate mandolins, I would appreciate some experience.

An F style is more expensive and offers a brighter sharper sound, vs. a rounder, fuller sound of an A. Also an F allows better access to the entire fret board - like my ‘cut-away’
I’ve seen how a neck strap attaches to an F, I presume an A uses a strap button at the base of the neck?

If I budget $400 -$450, could someone offer suggestions. Does fret board access matter? Acoustic vs acoustic-electric vs attachable microphone. Gretch, Kentucky, Loar, Ibanez? Dealers near San Francsico.

Again, experienced insight would be appreciated? Thank you. And please excuse the long post.
Tracy

[pops1]

The difference in sound between an F and an A is nonexistent. You will find a difference in an F with ff holes and an F with an oval hole. The same can be said for an A with ff or oval hole. If you get an older A model the reach on the neck is more limited, but a newer longer neck A has access as far as you would want to go. Basically the difference between an A and an F is price and looks

[Marcus CA]

It sounds simple to just swap the A and E strings to get the uke configuration, but you probably are going to run into tonal problems from the strings not fitting well into nut and saddle slots.

[LadysSolo]

I have a the Loar LM220, it is older, and IMHO a good starter mandolin (about $200.) I also own a Kentucky KM805 (about $600,) a better quality mandolin - 3 times better than the Loar? Well, at least twice as good. But I may have a better than average the Loar. I can say that both are well-made, and equally easy to play. I would recommend either one. I have no experience with either Gretsch or Ibanez. YMMV.

[pops1]

It sounds simple to just swap the A and E strings to get the uke configuration, but you probably are going to run into tonal problems from the strings not fitting well into nut and saddle slots.

You would also have to make a custom saddle as the intonation would be wrong for a different tuning.

[Peter Coronado]

I suggest a trip to Gryphon in Palo Alto. It's a fun visit. Looks like they have a KM-150 in your price range. They have experts you could talk to about your idea. NFI on my part.

[Br1ck]

+1 on Gryphon. What you will find there in your price range is probably the KM 150, but you need to see what $500 or $600 will buy you.

If you want to play mandolin, play mandolin. I wouldn't try to shortcut your way through it.

Right now put your money into an A style set up to play well. Setup is of paramount importance. You will get a good setup from Gryphon or any of our online sponsors too, but buying an all solid wood instrument will serve you well in the end. That starts with the KM 150 and just goes up from there.

[fifths]

U.P.,
I play Uke and did so "seriously" for several years before moving to mandolin. They are very similar seeming but very different instruments. The beauty of a fifths tuning is easy accessibility to melodies and scales, at the expense of simple fingerings for chords. Each instrument has its strengths and weaknesses, and will steer you in a different direction as a result. Where a chord on an ukulele tends towards all the notes being in the same octave, close harmony, usually with a funky inversion, a mandolin will often spread notes out much farther.
Also singing with an ukulele is way easier than with a mandolin for me, as the broader chords seem to step on the vocal melody. I use a mandolin to play melody and it excels at that, a task which a uke can do only with the quietest accompaniment or with amplification. I use a uke to sing to, and to work out chord melody arrangements. Fiddle tunes vs. Tin Pan Alley. for me, there is not much overlap.
I concur with br1ck: "If you want to play mandolin, play mandolin. I wouldn't try to shortcut your way through it."
enjoy!

5ths

[Tenzin]

I had gotten one (prior to all the amazing info on the Internet). It really was a waist. The setup wasn't done properly, the person setting it up should ask you the the necessary info to do an excellent job for your needs. Many different people recommended a Kentucky. After reading a very detailed and informative review here, and all the replies, that's what I purchased. No one can say what's best for your needs and budget, but I believe that the people here realy no their stuff and want you to be thrilled with your purchase.

Have fun researching and be sure to keep us posted.

[Ukulele Player]

Thanks to all who have replied so far and provided information. Please keep the advice coming.

I’m Definitely researching the KM 150, and next time in the area (hopefully within the next few months), I’ll stop by Gryphon. It looks.like a well stocked, professional establishment. I gather the tuners are of decent quality.

BTW, I tend to be a Contrarian in my approach to Ukuleles. One of my Tenors, I have replaced the standard ukulele strings with them with strings designed for a Classical Guitar. This makes the instrument play a full octave lower. And since the strings are wound, I’m teaching my self to use a violin bow to create a different sound.

As I say, I am a contrarian in my musical efforts.

[allenhopkins]

My advice, for the 2¢ it's worth, is not to buy one instrument and try to string it like another instrument (unless you're Tommy Tedesco -- Google him if you haven't heard of him). You won't "enjoy the whole range and sound of the mandolin" if you use strings of the same diameter on the second and third courses -- which is what I gather you mean by "tuning GDDA" -- and then tweak them to get GCEA tuning.

Instruments are designed for optimum performance with the strings and tuning for which they were made. It's not really a short-cut to put other types of strings on them, and then put, for example, a mandolin into "fourths-and-a-third" tuning like a uke. Honestly, take it from someone who plays a number of stringed instruments: it's not that hard to learn how to make other chord fingerings on a new instrument, and the instrument will sound as it was designed to sound.

Get a decent mandolin and learn to play it. You're better off getting an A-model mandolin if your budget's limited, as with an F-model you're paying for extra ornamentation that doesn't affect the instrument's acoustic properties. The real difference in sound is carved-top vs. flat-top, oval-hole vs. f-hole, and (not as likely a comparison, but possible) flat-back vs. bowl-back.

A good store with a decent selection and a helpful staff is your best decision.

[Randi Gormley]

Interesting ideas and certainly you can put them into play and enjoy. The question is whether, with what you plan, you actually have a mandolin. I know there are a couple/three strings on "what, exactly, makes a mandolin a mandolin" and people with a much better knowledge of instrument building and a much better debating background than I have had a go at that. If you would rather take a random mandolin body and invent from there, no one will stop you. But if you want to hear a mandolin or add one to your other instruments, the easiest way is simply to take it as it comes and learn to play the instrument as it stands. Of course, as a contrarian, you won't accept this advice and that's fine too. Have at. There's nothing wrong with a noble experiment, after all. You can let us know how it goes.

[Seter]

There is a poster here whose name escapes me at the moment who uses taropatch tuning for his mandolin. Maybe he will weigh in.

[Ukulele Player]

As I understand, there is such a thing as a Mandolele. It is designed for and strung with NYLON strings in standard Ukulele format.
I could purchase this item, but it would simply be a different body style. It would not sound like a Mandolin. Using double strings made of wire rather than nylon achieves a different sound.
The banjo group I play with urged me to use metal strings instead of nylon to amplify the banjo toner my banjolele, but I prefer the warmth nylon provides and the velum head creates a true banjo sound.

The wire strings of a true mandolin vs the nylon strings of a mandolele will provide a non-ukulele sound. A mandolin sound.

[ukenukem]

"If you want to play mandolin, play mandolin. I wouldn't try to shortcut your way through it." (Brick)

As a long time guitar player and then ukulele player I researched the whole tuning question (I'm a Librarian by day) thinking it would be easier to get up to speed on the mandolin yet add some cool sounds to the band. Came to the realization summed up above and it turned out not to be that hard. I focused on movable chord shapes and scales, learned a few tunes to force myself and it was fun.

If you are not familiar with setting up a stringed instrument then definitely get your mandolin from a MC sponsor, they usually include a proper setup in the price. Also get Rob's ebook to understand the process.

https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ighlight=ebook

[allenhopkins]

As I understand, there is such a thing as a Mandolele. It is designed for and strung with NYLON strings in standard Ukulele format...

The "mandolele" as described on Bill Griffin's website, is basically a four-course, nylon-strung mandolin, tuned in fifths GDAE like a standard mandolin. It will sound, I'd say, like a ukulele, but with mandolin chording and melody playing.

You want the sound of a double-stringed instrument, with steel strings, but you're looking for ukulele tuning. Have you considered a tiple? These are four-course instruments with ten steel strings: two double courses and two triple courses. They're tuned like ukuleles, GCEA, but with three of the courses in octaves.

Not a common instrument, but they're around. The Martin ones are pricey, but I've seen Regal tiples that are affordable. Here's a YouTube clip that demos one. (Be aware that the instrument shown has had a compensated bridge retrofitted, eliminating one of the common tiple issues.)

[Ukulele Player]

I’ve never heard of a Tiple before, but thanks to you and the link that you provided, I am definitely intrigued. It has an interesting sound and definitely does not sound like a ukulele or any of my other stringed instruments.
I am already investigating. Thank you.