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Thread: Bridge modification

  1. #1

    Default Bridge modification

    I am new to mandolins and would like to know if I can (or should) saw the string slots deeper on my bridge. I have lowered the bridge as much as I can and the action is still higher than I like.

  2. #2
    Registered User bennyb's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bridge modification

    Yes, but.... Remember that you can go too far. And you have to cut(or preferably, file) twice as much in the saddle as the improvement you want to see at the 12th fret. You also want the slots only slightly larger than the string gauge. The questions: is the action at the nut where you want it? Are you confident there are no other issues such as a bowed neck or a neck joint problem?

  3. #3

    Default Re: Bridge modification

    The best practice is to remove wood from the foot portion rather than the saddle (top).
    Robert Fear
    http://www.folkmusician.com

    "Education is when you read the fine print; experience is what you get when you don't.
    " - Pete Seeger

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  5. #4

    Default Re: Bridge modification

    Quote Originally Posted by Folkmusician.com View Post
    The best practice is to remove wood from the foot portion rather than the saddle (top).
    Best to sand the top of the base if you have good bridge to top fit. You have to take the posts out, sand, then put them back
    Silverangel A
    Arches F style kit
    1913 Gibson A-1

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    Rick G 

  7. #5
    I may be old but I'm ugly billhay4's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bridge modification

    One needs to ask why the bridge needs lowering in the first place. Is the neck bending? Is the top sinking? etc.
    Bill
    IM(NS)HO

  8. #6

    Default Re: Bridge modification

    It’s a new (inexpensive) instrument. I have not checked the neck but it “looks” pretty straight and the top is not sinking. My guess is that it is just made that way. Like I said it is an inexpensive instrument.

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  10. #7
    Registered User sblock's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bridge modification

    +1 Lower the bridge saddle by turning the knurled wheels. If these are already as low as they can go, it's best to take material off the base of the bridge (by sanding it to fit) to lower the action, rather than from the saddle. Simply deepening the slots in the saddle will likely not be enough, anyway.

  11. #8

    Default Re: Bridge modification

    is the base of the bridge the part that rests against the mandolin body?

  12. #9

    Default Re: Bridge modification

    Quote Originally Posted by DrewCfromSC View Post
    is the base of the bridge the part that rests against the mandolin body?
    Yes.

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  14. #10
    Registered User Greg Mirken's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bridge modification

    If you are playing near the nut, on the lowest frets, the height of the strings in the nut is more important than the bridge. Research how to check that [many of us repairmen have information on our websites about action diagnosis].
    If the bridge is really high, you can also remove the adjusting wheels so the saddle [top part] rests directly on the base.
    If you can post a photo or two you may get more meaningful advice...

    Greg
    Shade Tree Fretted Instrument Repair, retired
    Nevada City, California

  15. #11
    Orrig Onion HonketyHank's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bridge modification

    get rob meldrum's ebook on setup - see my signature.
    New to mando? Click this link -->Newbies to join us at the Newbies Social Group.

    Just send an email to rob.meldrum@gmail.com with "mandolin setup" in the subject line and he will email you a copy of his ebook for free (free to all mandolincafe members).

    My website and blog: honketyhank.com

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