Changing strings is just like a lot of things, we all seem to have our own way of doing it and I have found that it`s damn near impossible to get everyone to agree on anything...No politics meant here...
Changing strings is just like a lot of things, we all seem to have our own way of doing it and I have found that it`s damn near impossible to get everyone to agree on anything...No politics meant here...
Yup, I've been doing it this way ever since I heard it described on one of those earlier threads a couple of years ago. So thanks for that.
Nothing in Frank Fords method involves ' tying on ' the short end is simply trapped under string itself.
Dave H
Eastman 615 mandola
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2001 Paul Shippey oval hole
Dave - Whatever you want to call it,there are more 'bends' in the strings the way Frank Ford does it than are needed. Each bend needs to be un-bent when removing the strings. Not so bad on the A & E strings,but a mess when it comes to the G & D strings. As i mentioned,i literally had to cut the strings off my Lebeda when i got it. Doing it my way,the strings simply un-wind. Once the first winding comes off the tuner post,the others simply spring off by themsleves,
Ivan
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I used to do that "trapping under" with the plain E strings but removing them involved more touching the string end (and thus more bloodshed) unless I used nose pliers. Later found out that plain strings don't slip even without that if I just give them a few more turns around the tuner peg. So I just have 2 bends, one (turnwise) a the entry of the peg hole, the other (widdershins) at the exit, thus making a Z shape.
the world is better off without bad ideas, good ideas are better off without the world
Yes, it's one of many variations on the Red Henry bridge. I didn't make that myself. Quite a while back I traded one of my penny whistles for some luthier work on my Fullerton-- radius of fingerboard,refret, and the Red Henry bridge. I like it just fine, although it was so long ago that I can't really remember the difference from the stock bridge.
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You've got that right!
BTW-- I always just cut the old strings when I do a change. I used to fool myself into trying to save the old ones for "emergency" replacements and never once had to do it.It's much easier and better to just carry a spare A and E string as they're the most likely to break.
For wooden musical fun that doesn't involve strumming, check out:
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Handcrafted pennywhistles in exotic hardwoods.
I go through the post hole, round the pole to the string then over the top, round and under the string then tension it up with very few turns.
I never fail at anything, I just succeed at doing things that never work....
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Personally, I don't understand the need to "lock" strings on. The only problem I've ever had is getting "locked on" strings off again.
It's been interesting to see the responses here. Who knew there could be so many different ways to do this basic task. Hey, whatever works for you!
For wooden musical fun that doesn't involve strumming, check out:
www.busmanwhistles.com
Handcrafted pennywhistles in exotic hardwoods.
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And we are the dreamers of dreams
Brilliant!... I've always used the method on Brad Laird's video, probably what y'all are referring to as "locking"... deffo gonna try this!!! Thanks Paul!
aka: Spencer
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My method is very similar to Paul's, except where at about 1:49 he says he puts the string "through the post... above the last loop I made", and instead, I put the string through the post below the last loop I made, and then pull it tight. Sometimes I need a pliers to pull it tight enough to be snug. I guess I feel that having the string end "pinched" between the last two loops somehow holds it in better, though it probably makes little difference in reality.
bratsche
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Yep, the Brad Laird YouTube video, so easy and foolproof, it can't slip. I hook the loop first and then pull the string through the post leaving a bit of slack to make the top part easy, yet not enough slack to allow the loop end to easily slip off (I hated that). Then in about 4 or 5 quick turns, you've wound past the string coming out of the post and it's locked and you're done. I did get more comfortable with it after a few changes. Takes a second to get comfortable visually I think more than anything, esp. after doing the multiple wrap tango for so many years. Never had a slip or a break at the post end, and it's fast and it's very easy. Thanks Brad!
Can you do this method on a Loar FM 110A?
Nicely done video Paul. I use this method as well after seeing Kenny Smith do it as mentioned above. I still don't LIKE it, but it's worth it for that sweet sweet sound.
Drew
2020 Northfield 4th Gen F5
2022 Northfield NFS-F5E
2019 Northfield Flat Top Octave
2021 Gold Tone Mando Cello
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David Hopkins
2001 Gibson F-5L mandolin
Breedlove Legacy FF mandolin; Breedlove Quartz FF mandolin
Gibson F-4 mandolin (1916); Blevins f-style Octave mandolin, 2018
McCormick Oval Sound Hole "Reinhardt" Mandolin
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The older I get, the less tolerant I am of political correctness, incompetence and stupidity.
There goes my low-carb diet, again.
the world is better off without bad ideas, good ideas are better off without the world
For wooden musical fun that doesn't involve strumming, check out:
www.busmanwhistles.com
Handcrafted pennywhistles in exotic hardwoods.
Tried this yesterday. Thanks!
This just after finding a string winder I like in the case of a guitar I bought.
Whatever way you're changing the strings, don't neglect the opportunity to lubricate the nut slots. Sam Bush recommends graphite (specifically, a no. 2 pencil).
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