Re: Playing longer scale mandos gets progressively more impossibl
Originally Posted by
Digital Larry
...You can't play a bluegrass "chop" type G or D form chord on those things. Anyone go for a longer scale mando-thing and find it was too difficult? Or were you able to adapt to it somehow? Give up and use a capo?
Octave mandolins and mandocelli aren't designed to be played like "regular" mandolins, or even mandolas. Four-finger "closed" chords are much more difficult, finger stretches are longer so the fretting hand has to "un-anchor" from the end of the neck, and slide up to grab those fifth and sixth fret notes.
Using a capo on one of these is not "giving up," any more than putting one on your guitar or banjo (a generally accepted technique in the folk-based-acoustic-music community). It's just a way adjust the instrument's scale so that playing in certain keys, or playing certain melodies, is made easier and more fluid.
There are shorter-scale octave mandolins, a bit over 20 inches, that aren't that much longer scale than mandolas. Your Flatiron Model 3 was four or so inches longer than that, and Flatiron labeled it a "bouzouki" (I know because I've been playing a Flatiron 3-K for 30 years now). Look at a brand like Trinity College, and you may find something more "finger friendly." Or get an old Regal Octofone, if you can find one, and string it like an OM.
Don't try to make 'em what they ain't. Accept the idiosyncrasies in order to get the benefits. I've gotten a lot of music over the years out of a long-scale octave mandolin.
I concur in Mark G's advice to look at the CBOM forum, which is devoted to the larger mandolin-family instruments. Lots of discussion of scale lengths, stringing, and playing techniques. All these instruments allow you to adapt your mandolin fingering knowledge, to making music in a lower range. Which is great fun.
Allen Hopkins
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