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Thread: Reducing Fingerboard Width

  1. #1

    Default Reducing Fingerboard Width

    What would be involved in changing a fretboard from a 1 1/8" width at the nut to a 1 1/16" or 1 1/32"? There would have to be something taken off the neck too. Worth the trouble/cost or just find one with that's narrower at the nut? What do you think it would cost?
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  2. #2
    harvester of clams Bill McCall's Avatar
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    Default Re: Reducing Fingerboard Width

    Interesting.

    You'd probably have to change the nut and bridge too, along with the entire neck taper. And the cost would be dependent upon other factors such as binding and refinishing, if desired. I'd suspect around $750-1000 from a reputable luthier, given you'd have to refret as well. Might be simpler to replace the fingerboard and cut the neck to match.

    Probably a lot simpler to try a narrower neck for the feel, realizing that the neck shape probably wouldn't match what you currently have.
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  3. #3
    Registered User Tavy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Reducing Fingerboard Width

    This is potentially quite tricky:

    * The neck would need re-profiling to match the fretboard, obviously you'd loose the finish (time for a speed neck?), but you'd also want to be sure where the truss rod is, otherwise you risk carving into the pocket, and then you have a ex-mandolin.
    * Unless the binding is quite thick (> 1mm) you would loose the fretboard binding. If there's a trace of the binding pocket left behind, it is sometimes possible to deepen the pocket with a purpose made scraper, but otherwise you're looking at pulling the frets and routing a new pocket. If the board is radiused that's going to be a really tricky operation. Probably you would have to make a custom raduised base for the router that matches the fretboard.

    So to be honest, I would look for a new mandolin, unless this is a beater or a cheap mandolin you don't mind attacking with an orbital sander yourself, in the knowledge that it might all go horribly wrong

    Also, is this the fretboard width or the neck profile that's to blame? What actually makes the fretboard feel wide or chunky isn't the FB width so much, but how rapidly the neck tapers away from the FB. This is why most mandolin necks are V-shaped - if the neck falls away from the FB fast enough to feel comfy, then the narrow nut width means you automatically end up with a V-shape: I hope that makes sense. A more rounded profile will necessarily feel quite clubby and wider than it actually is purely because of the profile.

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  5. #4
    Adrian Minarovic
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    Default Re: Reducing Fingerboard Width

    I did that years ago to one I made (the one that got stolen few months ago :-( ). The owner (fiddle player couldn't adjust to wider fretboard so asked me to reduce it.
    I decided to take the board off and plane away from just treble side of board (I was reducing less than 1/16" and no dots) to reduce need for work on headstock binding. I applied nwe piece of binding to the side of board , glued it back (using original registering pins) and reshaped neck and also the riser block where the board sits on it to match and managed to lift binding from nut to first edge of headstock on treble side and cut the binding notch a bit deeper to match new nut width. Glued the binding back and reshaped the ramp from neck to headstock. I refinished just the "working area" of neck to the body and the bare riser block at 15th fret and just touched up and french polished the headstock at the binding. And I refretted it as well (actually it needed it). (mandolin left in few days)
    No big deal, but may be costly....
    Adrian

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  7. #5
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    Default Re: Reducing Fingerboard Width

    It just so happens the '56 Martin A is in the shop for some neck narrowing and a few other things. Those pegheads are thinner than normal tuners are made for and someone had put on some econo tuners (unsightly screw holes, naturally), so it got a mahogany veneer to bring it up to standard thickness. The neck was 1 3/16" at the nut and now 1 1/32" with somewhat of a April '23 Loar style profile, carbon fiber truss rod, new 16" radiused ebony fretboard bound in ebony and EVO frets, new ebony bridge, and a little finish touching up. The neck has been stained and sprayed and will be buffed out in a couple of weeks. Tuners will be Rubner and maybe a Nugget Junior tailpiece, if'n i can get a gold one. i don't have a price estimate and am not in a rush to ask. It's in the capable hands of a good, fair minded luthier.

    Someday the Stanley A5s will get the neck narrowed from a bit under 1 1/8" to maybe a hair less than 1 1/16" and profiled to a July '23 Loar shape -- that is, IF drawings can EVER be found. It will get a little peghead reshaping, Rubner tuners, and likely need to have the board rebound in ebony and refretted.

    Interesting that you are considering the narrow neck shape as well. Please keep the thread updated. There must be a story there.(?)

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  9. #6
    Kelley Mandolins Skip Kelley's Avatar
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    Default Re: Reducing Fingerboard Width

    Just like Adrian said, no big deal but, it is costly. I’ve done it and also made the nut width/fretboard wider.

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  11. #7
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    Default Re: Reducing Fingerboard Width

    Want an NNS mandolin get an Eastman.
    Less dough than butchering an existing mandolin that could be of some use to another player.

  12. #8

    Default Re: Reducing Fingerboard Width

    I just had this done went from 1 3/16" to 1 1/8" and had depth of neck reduced. New nut, re-fret, re-finish neck with a great set up cost 300.00 + 160.00 shipping. It made a huge difference it dosn't take much to make BIG difference.

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  14. #9

    Default Re: Reducing Fingerboard Width

    I may ask the guy who made it if he'd consider doing it, but I probably won't do it. I have one that works and you can only play one at a time.
    2010 Heiden A5, 2020 Pomeroy oval A, 2013 Kentucky KM1000 F5, 2012 Girouard A Mandola w ff holes, 2001 Old Wave A oval octave
    http://HillbillyChamberMusic.bandcamp.com
    Videos: https://www.youtube.com/@hillbillychambermusic

  15. #10
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    Default Re: Reducing Fingerboard Width

    It's kind of a tricky decision that calls for the right candidate. i've had numerous mandolins that have come and gone and these are the only two that have stood the test of time. If the narrowing is only one item on list of improvements, then it may be a good idea. Instruments with historical significance may not be the best choices. Also, even 1" nuts are original on some Loars period mandolins. Another consideration is how much that specific instrument suits the player otherwise. For me, the Martin fills the classical tone niche and the Stanley does pretty much everything else. There are some mod's that are pretty much accepted now, such as radiused fretboards and scooping or bobbing the Florida.

    Considering the point Jeff makes, these two mandolins are the only ones i choose to own and play, and i prefer their sound to others. The mod's are mostly needed playing requirements and these individuals don't have any historical value. Not dissing Eastman, but they just don't suit me at all, and i tried really, and i do mean REALLY hard to like their Giacomel knock off and failed miserably.

    In my case, Chris built the Stanley for me as a custom instrument and isn't a standard model in any shape or form, so the changes are commensurate with what it is. The Martin work is an upgrade, as it was pretty much a beater...ugly holes from poor quality and fitting tuners with too long screw spacing, splotchy and severely checked finish worn thru in places, shrunken binding that has left a shelf of bare wood, pitted fretboard and frets, chipped out nut and bridge, and neck relief that's a bit excessive...so it was somewhat of a rescue from the Gruhn instrument shelter, and custom case for it will be a nice touch in what i hope will be a few weeks -- but that's another thread for our Martin A friends on the Cafe.
    Last edited by dan in va; Jun-21-2018 at 7:15am.

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