Ebonizing?

[soliver]

For those of you using the dyes or India ink, what grit do you typically sand to before applying the color?

Do you continue to sand it after you've dyed it?

How does the grain appear after dying (or inking ?!?!)?

Thanks

[Dusepo]

I rarely ebonise things as I prefer natural colour usually, but I have found that a stain made from walnut husks works well.

[Bernie Daniel]

I rarely ebonise things as I prefer natural colour usually, but I have found that a stain made from walnut husks works well.

What is that stain called and where do you get it? The idea of a natural product (tree based even) stain seems something worth knowing about. Thanks!

[soliver]

I rarely ebonise things as I prefer natural colour usually, but I have found that a stain made from walnut husks works well.

I'm a fan of natural wood color myself, but I find that darker colors sell better for the application to which I plan to use this.... and ebony is an expensive wood species

[Folkmusician.com]

Back in the early days (when we were selling a lot of violins), I had experimented with several methods of dying the fingerboards after they were planed. This was usually ebony though. Lamp black works great. I also have some powered aniline dyes. These are also awesome. They leave a nice natural sheen. I had better luck with the powered dyes than the premixed versions.

[Dusepo]

What is that stain called and where do you get it? The idea of a natural product (tree based even) stain seems something worth knowing about. Thanks!

I buy it online from a UK supplier, but you can also make it yourself if you have walnut trees around. It's made (AFAIK) by pressing unripe walnuts.

[Bernie Daniel]

I buy it online from a UK supplier, but you can also make it yourself if you have walnut trees around. It's made (AFAIK) by pressing unripe walnuts.

Makes sense -- if you try to husk one of those walnut pods your hands are stained black for weeks!

[Mark Gunter]

Back in the early days (when we were selling a lot of violins), I had experimented with several methods of dying the fingerboards after they were planed. This was usually ebony though. Lamp black works great. I also have some powered aniline dyes. These are also awesome. They leave a nice natural sheen. I had better luck with the powered dyes than the premixed versions.

I like working with powdered dyes and pigments, as well as pre-mixed alcohol types. So many uses, including making up your own toners, adding thin layers of color while padding french polish, etc.

I prefer walnut or wenge for dark woods rather than ebony, but sometimes ebonizing a lighter colored species is practical, and sometimes you just want a black wood instead of just a dark one.

[rcc56]

For those of you using the dyes or India ink, what grit do you typically sand to before applying the color?

Do you continue to sand it after you've dyed it?

How does the grain appear after dying (or inking ?!?!)?

Thanks

I sand all fingerboards that I work on to 400 before fretting whether they are to be dyed or not. If there are fancy inlays, I continue to 600. I like the inlays to sparkle. If I use dyes, I prefer to apply them as late as is reasonably possible. Re-dyeing areas that have been compromised by sanding is extra work. Masking dyed areas is also extra work. But, cleaning dye off inlays without damaging the color on surrounding areas can be a pain in the neck. You have to find the right time for each job.

[soliver]

My Iron Acetate has been "brewing" for about a week now. I was just out in the shop for a figuring and decided to futz with it a moment (it's still not been strained) but I brushed a little on some maple and a little on some walnut and it has some promise. Remember to this is without introducing the additional tannins from tea as planned:

[Clinton Johnson]

I used iron acetate on the walnut veneer on the headstock of this mandolin. Can’t say that I particularly like the grain pores but it was ok I guess. I’ll be using ebony on the next

[soliver]

Another update: I brewed some really strong tea (10 bags in about a quart of water) brushed it on, let it dry and then brushed on the acetate. The result on the Walnut was REALLY nice!... the Maple wasn't bad either:

M

Added a little wipe-on poly and it's even better!



I'll try an actual finished piece next!

[colorado_al]

I don't know if you have the time or inclination, but you can soak your piece in tea, and then soak it in the iron acetate, and then dry (for quite a while) and have an effect that reaches much deeper into the wood

[soliver]

I don't know if you have the time or inclination, but you can soak your piece in tea, and then soak it in the iron acetate, and then dry (for quite a while) and have an effect that reaches much deeper into the wood

I might try that!... only problem is I knocked over the acetate and spilled it all over the floor so I'll have to Waite another week for the second batch to brew...

[colorado_al]

I've always wanted ebony floors

Additionally, adding diacetone alcohol to your solution, at about 5%, will allow the iron acetate to penetrate further into the wood

[Bernie Daniel]

Here is a maple bridge for a vintage mandocello -- I carved it our of a piece of sugar maple and then dye with Fiebig's black leather stain.

One needs to let it dye for 48 hours and then wipe it repeatedly with Kleenex until no more color comes off. Impossible to tell from ebony except when you pick it up. Feels too light.

[soliver]

Nearly perfect, just have to be more cautious with the finish sanding!

[colorado_al]

Nice!