For those of you using the dyes or India ink, what grit do you typically sand to before applying the color?
Do you continue to sand it after you've dyed it?
How does the grain appear after dying (or inking ?!?!)?
Thanks
For those of you using the dyes or India ink, what grit do you typically sand to before applying the color?
Do you continue to sand it after you've dyed it?
How does the grain appear after dying (or inking ?!?!)?
Thanks
aka: Spencer
Silverangel Econo A #429
Soliver #001 Hand Crafted Pancake
Soliver Hand Crafted Mandolins and Mandolin Armrests
Armrests Here -- Mandolins Here
"You can never cross the ocean unless you have the courage
to lose sight of the shore, ...and also a boat with no holes in it.” -anonymous
I rarely ebonise things as I prefer natural colour usually, but I have found that a stain made from walnut husks works well.
I am a luthier specialising in historical and world stringed instruments. You can see more info at my website.
Bernie
____
Due to current budgetary restrictions the light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off -- sorry about the inconvenience.
aka: Spencer
Silverangel Econo A #429
Soliver #001 Hand Crafted Pancake
Soliver Hand Crafted Mandolins and Mandolin Armrests
Armrests Here -- Mandolins Here
"You can never cross the ocean unless you have the courage
to lose sight of the shore, ...and also a boat with no holes in it.” -anonymous
Back in the early days (when we were selling a lot of violins), I had experimented with several methods of dying the fingerboards after they were planed. This was usually ebony though. Lamp black works great. I also have some powered aniline dyes. These are also awesome. They leave a nice natural sheen. I had better luck with the powered dyes than the premixed versions.
Robert Fear
http://www.folkmusician.com
"Education is when you read the fine print; experience is what you get when you don't.
" - Pete Seeger
I am a luthier specialising in historical and world stringed instruments. You can see more info at my website.
I like working with powdered dyes and pigments, as well as pre-mixed alcohol types. So many uses, including making up your own toners, adding thin layers of color while padding french polish, etc.
I prefer walnut or wenge for dark woods rather than ebony, but sometimes ebonizing a lighter colored species is practical, and sometimes you just want a black wood instead of just a dark one.
WWW.THEAMATEURMANDOLINIST.COM
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I sand all fingerboards that I work on to 400 before fretting whether they are to be dyed or not. If there are fancy inlays, I continue to 600. I like the inlays to sparkle. If I use dyes, I prefer to apply them as late as is reasonably possible. Re-dyeing areas that have been compromised by sanding is extra work. Masking dyed areas is also extra work. But, cleaning dye off inlays without damaging the color on surrounding areas can be a pain in the neck. You have to find the right time for each job.
My Iron Acetate has been "brewing" for about a week now. I was just out in the shop for a figuring and decided to futz with it a moment (it's still not been strained) but I brushed a little on some maple and a little on some walnut and it has some promise. Remember to this is without introducing the additional tannins from tea as planned:
aka: Spencer
Silverangel Econo A #429
Soliver #001 Hand Crafted Pancake
Soliver Hand Crafted Mandolins and Mandolin Armrests
Armrests Here -- Mandolins Here
"You can never cross the ocean unless you have the courage
to lose sight of the shore, ...and also a boat with no holes in it.” -anonymous
Another update: I brewed some really strong tea (10 bags in about a quart of water) brushed it on, let it dry and then brushed on the acetate. The result on the Walnut was REALLY nice!... the Maple wasn't bad either:
M
Added a little wipe-on poly and it's even better!
I'll try an actual finished piece next!
aka: Spencer
Silverangel Econo A #429
Soliver #001 Hand Crafted Pancake
Soliver Hand Crafted Mandolins and Mandolin Armrests
Armrests Here -- Mandolins Here
"You can never cross the ocean unless you have the courage
to lose sight of the shore, ...and also a boat with no holes in it.” -anonymous
I don't know if you have the time or inclination, but you can soak your piece in tea, and then soak it in the iron acetate, and then dry (for quite a while) and have an effect that reaches much deeper into the wood
aka: Spencer
Silverangel Econo A #429
Soliver #001 Hand Crafted Pancake
Soliver Hand Crafted Mandolins and Mandolin Armrests
Armrests Here -- Mandolins Here
"You can never cross the ocean unless you have the courage
to lose sight of the shore, ...and also a boat with no holes in it.” -anonymous
I've always wanted ebony floors
Additionally, adding diacetone alcohol to your solution, at about 5%, will allow the iron acetate to penetrate further into the wood
Here is a maple bridge for a vintage mandocello -- I carved it our of a piece of sugar maple and then dye with Fiebig's black leather stain.
One needs to let it dye for 48 hours and then wipe it repeatedly with Kleenex until no more color comes off. Impossible to tell from ebony except when you pick it up. Feels too light.
Bernie
____
Due to current budgetary restrictions the light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off -- sorry about the inconvenience.
aka: Spencer
Silverangel Econo A #429
Soliver #001 Hand Crafted Pancake
Soliver Hand Crafted Mandolins and Mandolin Armrests
Armrests Here -- Mandolins Here
"You can never cross the ocean unless you have the courage
to lose sight of the shore, ...and also a boat with no holes in it.” -anonymous
Nice!
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