Clamping down the fretboard extension

[Bernie Daniel]

I was just wondering what others do to clamp down the end of the fretboard (the extension) - when I set up my dry clamping for the first Osage orange fretboard I noticed that the extension was not fitting up as tight as I liked -- but none of my clamps would fit between the top board and the bottom of the extension riser. So I made these two clamps out of aluminum flat stock and some flat head metal screws and a some wing nuts. I countersunk that screw heads. Seemed to work OK.

[Dale Ludewig]

I use a caul on the top of the fingerboard that goes all the way to the end over the extension. I put a little wedge under the extension- between the bottom of the extension and the top of the mandolin. I make sure before the fingerboard gluing process starts that everything is dead straight. I have cam clamps that will reach that far over the extension, but it's minimal pressure. If I have to apply more pressure than that, something's not right and there's going to be a lot of fret work immediately.

[sliebers]

I like your clamps Bernie. Looks like a good solution. I go a little overboard with my setup. I glue my fb on flat. I sand the radius in afterwards.
There's a flat caul for most of the fingerboard. I use rubber bands around the extension. The cradle holding the mandolin is a neck straightening jig I made to simulate string tension and level a fb like Stew Mac's neck jig. I put the wine press screw attachment on to push my neck into the dovetail mortise when gluing. I also use it here as one of the clamps for the fb.

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[rcc56]

That's a good solution, Bernie.

[Ivan Kelsall]

Hi Bernie - May i complement you on what appears to be very,fine & neat craftsmanship - & i do like the colour of the Osage Orange wood,
Ivan

[Bernie Daniel]

Hi Bernie - May i complement you on what appears to be very,fine & neat craftsmanship - & i do like the colour of the Osage Orange wood,
Ivan

Thanks Ivan -- you hit the nail on the head it LOOKS like a neat job. The truth is the front binding is pretty good but the back binding is not so good because I bought some faux-ivoroid binding from China it was a (rhymes with ditch) to bend. You get what you pay for!!! I'll have to be smarter -- buy the good stuff next time. If the mandolin sounds good when I'm done I'll probably pull the old binding, clean up the back and rebind it.

[Ivan Kelsall]

From Bernie - " You get what you pay for !!! " Hopefully Bernie - but not always the case,as most of us have discovered by experience,
Ivan

[HoGo]

I use long thick plywood (1"+) clamping caul that goes all along the fingerboard and I don't scoop the end of board so I have long flat surface to clamp. I don't use clamps on the extension, the last clamp is right where the extension is glued to top and top supported by blocks. I use thin wedges under extension to keep it from bending down. I put the wedges in before I apply glue, and check the surface is either straight or the end of extension can stick up 1/32" or so above rest of neck because of the action of wedges, but with gentle pressure I can get it level. WHen I clamp the board (HHG, well heated surfaces) I just check tightness of the wedges so they keep everything in line against the plywood. For me the most critical thing is letting the joint dry for several days (preferrably week) still under the flat caul till all moisture escapes from extension and board. If you remove the caul too soon residual moisture from glue can cause twisted or sagged extension.