1st Mandolin on $1k Budget?

[Stoopalini]

I'm a long time guitarist, playing acoustic, electric, bass and even some piano at times, who is looking to learn a new instrument, and I think the mandolin would be a great skill to have in my tool box. The guitars I play span the range of quality (PRS, vintage Gibson, modern Fender, Ibanez, Earnie Ball, Reverend, etc ...), so I do appreciate a quality instrument and understand it comes at a cost.

I also realize mandolin's are a different price structure than guitars are, and I accept the fact I can only get an 'ok' mandolin within this $1k price range. from what I've been reading, maybe a 'good' one if I consider buying used. I'm ok with that, and would consider a more expensive one in the future if I take to it and begin playing it as much (or more?) than my guitars.

I'd like to stay away from the really cheap ones, as I have enough experience to know I probably won't like playing it if it doesn't feel good and sound good. So I want to avoid is buying one that is difficult to play, or sounds bad, or doesn't fit my purpose. Hence I am reaching out to you fine folks for some knowledge and guidance!

What I'm having a hard time understanding is what I should be looking for. I've been reading a lot on this forum, and see mention of oval holes, F holes, round holes, etc ... and these having an impact on tone and suitability for particular genres of music.

I'm not overly concerned with an A style vs. a F style, but I do appreciate the classic look of a mandolin, so I haven't been considering something like a Godin A8, or some of the other "non-traditional" looking mandolins ... although maybe I should given my intended use?

I've been playing guitar for contemporary worship teams for about 15 years now, and that is the genre I would be purchasing this for. Most of these songs are more rock genre, so not bluegrass or country; but I appreciate the texture a mandolin can add to the mix, and really think it could fit well.

I need one which can be plugged in, and not mic'ed up. From what I gather, I can purchase an already electrified one, or a non-electric one and add something like a K&K Mandolin Twin Internal pickup system to be able to plug in. Is this a good strategy, or should I limit my search to only ones which are electrified from their manufacturer?

The reason I've set a $1k budget is because I have a Reverend guitar I plan to sell, as I don't play it much, and it should bring around that amount. I could expand my budget a bit, if the quality is significantly improved with a few hundred dollars more, but would 1st try to keep it to this until I see how I connect with playing a mandolin.

On my list thus far are the typical Kentucky, Eastman, and The Loar brands ... but I don't know what models to look at for my intended use and genre. I don't think I want a strictly "bluegrass" type tone, so does that mean I should be leaning towards an oval sound hole, or a particular top wood?

I know that was long winded, but from reading other "help me choose" threads, I tried to include the info I see you folks asking newbies when they are looking for guidance

[Northwest Steve]

You will get lots of opinions. Personally I prefer f holes. A or F5 style really does not matter. What matters is playability and sound. Also comfort.. size and shape of the neck, radius or flat fretboard? Unfortunately it will be somewhat hard to figure some of that out until you have played a while and played a few different instruments. Hard to go wrong with a Kentucky or Eastman if you get a good one. More recent ones tend to be better and more constant.
Eastman 605 and 805 can come with pick-up installed. Like this one
https://reverb.com/item/12597608-eas...-vintage-burst

There were some good/fair deals on used Eastman 515/615 but you would need to install a pick-up. Eastman's generally have a
1 3/32" nut (medium) and a radius fretboard.


For Kentucky if you could find a good used 950 they can be very good. You would need to install a pick-up. They have a 1 1/8' or slightly wider nut, radius fretboard, larger frets and a scooped Florida (the bottom extension on the fretboard). If you have larger hands or used to playing guitar you may find these comfortable.

For new and possibly used I would contact a site sponsor like TheFolkmusician or The Mandolin Store and let them know what you are looking for. The advantages is they can direct you to something that would work for you, you will get a mandolin with a decent to very good set-up and you can return it. Good luck you should be able to find a pretty good mandolin for a grand.

[Stoopalini]

Thanks! I was looking at the Kentucky 900, but then read something about it being strictly a bluegrass tone, and not so great for other genres. Although I don't know enough to understand if that's an accurate statement or not? Someone else then replied to look for an oval sound hole for more a versatile tone. Is that a fair assessment?

I've read great things about the 950, and tend to agree a wider nut and radius fret board would probably feel more comfortable to me due to my years of playing guitar. I'm hoping to get down to a local music store and try a few (after I look up some chord positions), and then write down the specs, so I can compare against what I find more comfortable.

I appreciate the info!

[Stoopalini]

BTW: I also have an affinity for F holes; from an aesthetic perspective. My PRS Hollowbody II guitar has them, as well as my wife's Hollowbody bass, and they just look so good!

[Scott R]

I think you would be perfectly fine with ANY Eastman or Kentucky. All built well, and great to start with. Try to buy used, so you don't have to worry about losing any money when you figure out what you want to upgrade to down the road...

[lflngpicker]

I think mandolin is a versatile enough instrument that I wouldn't worry about the KM900 being pigeon-holed as only a blue grass instrument. It is all in your musical style and technique and the way you choose to employ it. Yes, instruments have emphases in tone and projection, as you know as a guitarist, but it is a mandolin after all, so it is going to sound like a mandolin. In your price range a used Kentucky KM1000 or Eastman MD615 would be good choices for an F style. You could also watch for a Flatiron, Morris or Breedlove A styles, all US made. Best of luck!

[Stoopalini]

Thanks, I'm sure you're right; especially for my 1st experience owning one.

Are Michael Kelly mandolin's decent? They seem to be right in this price range as well (if not a bit cheaper), and there's a used one for sale by a private owner, close to my location. The specs say "Solid" for the top, sides and back .... but not "Carved". Does that typically mean they are press formed?

[lflngpicker]

Stoopalini, I have no experience with MK's, but there are some committed players of them in the Cafe. I really love the Kentucky quality and from the experts, it seems they and the Eastman's are considered highly reliable. J Bovier is equally reputable, if you are able to spot one. You being a guitarist gives you a good sense of how to narrow down your choices and that will serve you well, along with the good folks in the cafe that offer their insights.

[Northwest Steve]

One thing on the Kentucky 900/1000 is they had small frets and a 1 1/16" flat fretboard until recently. Not sure when they changed but it was probably in the last year or 18 mo. You may or may not like that. I had a 900 and just did not like it, especially the small frets. Also the Florida is not scooped like the 950/1050 so you will probably get pick click which can be annoying. The new 900/1000 still have a flat fretboard but a 1 1/8" nut.

[Stoopalini]

Great info guys, thanks so much!

So the 900 is a truly flat fret board, or is it just a really large radius?

My Reverend guitar has a 12” radius vs a 10” on my PRS vs a 9.5” on my telecaster and I believe my vintage Les Paul is also a 12”.

For some reason, the Reverend feels much flatter than the Gibson though. Either way, I much prefer the feel of the PRS.

I’m not sure any of this translates to how a mandolin will feel in my hands though, other than I may prefer some radius vs flat.

Are most fret boards on mandolins 12”, or is it like guitars where different radii are used, and even a compound radius is an option?

I suppose a lot of mandolin playing is done at speed, so the flat board may be desiresble due to that?

I really need to get to a few stores and start trying some out, I just prefer to be well educated before doing so. Luckily I’m just outside Austin TX, so I definitely have options. Although I’m taking the family to Colorado tomorrow for a week in the mountains, so it’ll have to wait until we get back (unless there’s any good shops in Steamboat? LOL).

[Northwest Steve]

900/1000 is flat, narrow 1 1/16" nut and tiny frets and the Florida is not scooped - 950/1050 are radius, large frets, 1 1/8"+ nut and the Florida is scooped. I have owned a 1050, 950, 900, 505x2 and a 150. 1050 was a flat out great mandolin, the 950 was very good not like the 1050 though, I just did not care for the 900 (likely that specific mandolin and the tiny frets), one of the 505's was surprisingly good the other I sent back on the trial so did not give it a fair chance, the 150 was very good just never bonded with the feel. I do know what you mean about some fretboards feeling different. I have had 4 Nashville Flatiron mandolins. All had flat fretboards 2 felt like it and 2 were more comfortable for me? The Kentucky 900 and 150 felt flat. If you can get to Fiddlers Green you should at least be able to see what feels comfortable.

Enjoy the mountains....

[colorado_al]

My favorite new mandolin for less than $1000 is the JBovier A5 for $899.
https://mandolins.ecrater.com/p/16368398/2017-a5
It has a radiused fretboard, .080 fretwire, ebony board and bridge, solid hand carved top and back. Cast tailpiece. They are really terrific mandolins.
You can get a K&K twin installed by Jeff before he ships it to you for an extra $195.
Or if you are handy, you can install one yourself. I've been using the JJB Prestige 220 pickup lately and can't see or hear any difference in quality compared to the K&K
http://www.jjb-electronics.com/prestige-220.html

If you're passing near Boulder/Denver on your way to Steamboat, PM me and you can play my JBovier A5 to get an idea of how they feel and sound.

Here's a "New" 2012 one that is a good deal at $600, but it is an older model. Still a very good mandolin, but not as good as the current model that you would get new direct from JBovier.
https://reverb.com/item/11148543-j-b...oor-demo-model

[Br1ck]

$1000 is a tough price ceiling, because shopping the classifieds $1200-1400 will get you a much better one. Out of all the imports I've played, the Kentucky 900 and above are really quite good.

Buy IMHO you will be better off with a used Weber Gallatin, Summit, Silverangel, Ratliff, or any number of others.

[Stoopalini]

I figured $1000 would be one of those spots where it pays to go up a few hundred more, but then again, isn't that always the case? Thanks for the recommendations on the other brands. I haven't come across those yet, so will continue my research and include them. For $1100, the JBovier (with pickup) definitely looks like an option!

If you're passing near Boulder/Denver on your way to Steamboat, PM me and you can play my JBovier A5 to get an idea of how they feel and sound.

Wow, thanks so much for the offer! We're flying into Denver, then driving out to Steamboat. Considering we don't land until around 6pm, then have a 4hr drive ahead, I don't think I'll be able to swing by Especially with the wife, a 9yr old and an 11yr old in tow; But I sincerely appreciate the offer! I'd say maybe on the way back, but we have a flight time which will require us to leave Steamboat before sunrise.

I think the Kentucky 1050 and the 1000 would be out of my price range, even on the used market. The 950 looks like it may be within reach, if I'm lucky in my timing. As I search through different models, I'm noticing the Kentucky models aren't always on the 10's. So there's 950, 900, 750, etc .. but also 956, 756, 752, etc .. Are those just different models, or does the '6' and the '2' signify something particular? Like the 756 and the 956 share some feature designated by the '6'?

I'm also trying to figure out the model comparisons across brands, but am realizing this may be a futile task. I saw this Eastman MD-614, as an example. It looks nice, with carved top, sides and back, radius fret board, and the figuring on the wood looks really nice .... but I don't know how to decode the model numbers to understand the comparison to something like a KM-900.

https://themandolinstore.com/product...d614-mandolin/

And when it comes to the sound holes .... do F holes vs. oval holes vs. round holes make a difference in the tone? Or is it just aesthetics? I've listened to a few YouTube videos, but I've learned not to judge instrument tone that way; as there's too many variables between the instrument's direct tone and me hearing it through my speakers.

[Northwest Steve]

the 2 and 6 are same mandolin different color 950 is sunburst 956 is a Sheraton brown

You probably can find a 1000 in the $1000 to 1000 price range. The 1050 1200 to 1350? 1500 would be $1200 to 1500

[Chuck Leyda]

On Reverb:

Janish A5 1250. He might go for 1k.

Weber Hyalite for 1k

Flatiron performer 990

Weber Gallatin 1119

John Boyd 2 point 1050

These all interest me more than the Eastman/Kentuckys.

[Kevin Winn]

I was in the same boat a couple years ago - longtime guitar/bass player, mandolin bug bit hard, etc. I did a lot of lurking here and research and ended up with an Eastman MD315 (I prefer F-style, but the 305 is just as good), and had it set up by a local luthier, who also added a JJB pickup. For about $500, I had a really good starter mandolin to make sure I really liked it. I did. I recently upgraded to a Weber Bitterroot F, and am loving it even more. I sent my 315 on to help another newbie player into the fold, and got almost all of my investment back.

I bought mine sight unseen, but you have the advantage of being near Fiddlers Green. I would definitely recommend going in and explaining your situation. You can not only try out several models within your price range, but you'll also be probably be able to hear an experienced player on a couple really good instruments. This will give you a clearer idea of the tonal differences between a $1K mandolin and a much more expensive one.

But there are plenty of good options <=$1K for a starter instrument. Good hunting!

[pops1]

Yes ff holes and oval holes make a difference. ff holes are more punchy and ovals have more sustain and deeper bass, usually. If I were considering plugging in I would prefer ff holes.

[pheffernan]

If I were a migrating guitarist on a $1000 budget and not particularly interested in traditional aesthetics or tone, I'd look long and hard at a used Breedlove of American manufacture: https://www.elderly.com/catalog/prod...n/category/97/

[Jeff Mando]

If I were a migrating guitarist ........

Is that something like a vagabond? rover? drifter?

[gtani7]

I'd say watch ebay/reverb/c'list/classifieds/local shops and maybe some kindly Cafeers in your area can show you things to watch for: neck joints, action too low/high, bridge not fit etc

Kentucky km 950/956, pancakes (from Flatiron, Big Muddy/mid Missouri etc) JBovier, Weber, US made Breedloves, if you can stretch the $1k a bit, get a recognized maker name, don't overpay you'll get something that holds its value and resells easily if necessary. You could try to trade the guitar in the classifieds

Previous: https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ns-under-1-000

https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...le-under-1-000

https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...d-1000-or-less

[Stoopalini]

I thought about trading the guitar too. Definitely an option.

Someone I know has offered a Michael Kelly Legacy Dragonfly, with the built in electrics and a hard shell case. I’m considering this because it seems to be a good starter, is someone I trust, and would be well below my budget.

I haven’t read much on the MK’s though. Except that someone in this thread said they make good starters and many folks on the Cafe are big fans of them.

The guitar is a Reverend Warhawk RT, with a Reverend teardrop case, in new condition. They’re $999 new without the case (another $200 with), so I figured $900 is fair.

[Jim Garber]

You didn't say where you live or even what continent. This place is an international community. You seem to be assuming that you will have to buy something sight unseen and unheard. if at all possible, try to find a store where you can try one out in person. No matter how many opinions are expressed here, yours is truly the only one that counts in your decision.

You mention either buying new or used but not vintage. It might be a stretch but you may very well like the tone of old Gibsons. If you luck out you may find an A-Junior for around your price range. A-50s (with f-holes) might be possible too. The other possibility is the modest but good sounding Strad-O-Lin. Even a simple Martin A style might be good for what you want.

Another possibility is a flattop mandolin. You mention that you don't want bluegrass tone. These might have a bit more sustain. Big Muddy and others. Anyway some other things to think about.

[Br1ck]

Michael Kellys are ok. Certainly something you can play for awhile. I play mine quite a lot, with a much better mandolin in it's case five feet away, so it is certainly good enough. I still recommend you start as nice as possible. That's cheaper in the long run.

I had to do a lot to mine to get it playable and sounding good.If you get one you can keep it as a beater, but if you do, don't go playing Webers, Gibsons, or Collings.

[Willie Poole]

Stoop, I set you a Private message, if you are interested in what I offered give me a call...I am in Maryland just off of I-95...

Willie