hardened adhesive residue removal

[AndyV]

Hello, and sorry if this has already been answered. I found threads about sticky tape residue, but I'm dealing with thick hardened residue from first aid/athletic tape on the back of a 1910 Gibson.

I've tried olive oil and Goo Gone with no success. I didn't leave the Goo Gone on very long, a little uneasy about what it might do to the finish, so maybe a longer application would do the trick. Goo Gone is not to be used on bare wood and this is at the edge which is worn around the pickguard screw hole.

Before trying leaving the GG on longer I'd rather hear from someone who's had experience with this and can tell me what magic wand to use and just how to wave it under what moon.

Thank you in advance.

Andy

[Charles E.]

Most professional violin restorers use xylene (xylol in hardware stores) to clean instruments with a varnish finish. It will not affect most varnishes BUT one must test a small area at a time and use a clean paper towel after each application. I will add that Xylene is nasty stuff and the use of NITRILE gloves and plenty of air flow are important.

[sunburst]

Try naphtha. It has no effect on most finishes, it is available at hardware stores and paint stores (often labeled VM&P naphtha, that is "varnish maker's and painter's"). Also, Ronsonol lighter fluid and similar products are convenient small packages of naphtha at a rather premium price.

[rcc56]

Yes, try naphtha first. A little rubbing with a fingertip on the damp surface may help to soften it. It may take several applications. If naphtha doesn't work, you can try mineral spirits sparingly on a q-tip. Give it a few minutes to soften the gunk. Use soft rags for wiping, and when the rag surface gets dirty, move to a fresh surface or you might scratch things up.

If the residue is really hard and thick, you can mask off most of a cabinet scraper with a double layer of blue masking tape, leaving only a small area unmasked in the center of the blade, [see frets.com- razor blade scraping]. You can use it to knock most of the higher part of the residue off, then try the naphtha; but WARNING: DISCLAIMER-- this technique is not for beginners.

[AndyV]

If the residue is really hard and thick, you can mask off most of a cabinet scraper with a double layer of blue masking tape, leaving only a small area unmasked in the center of the blade, [see frets.com- razor blade scraping]. You can use it to knock most of the higher part of the residue off, then try the naphtha; but WARNING: DISCLAIMER-- this technique is not for beginners.

Not having a chance to pick up naphtha or xylene yesterday (and I suppose being impatient) I decided to try a little scraping. Just the thickest bit I'd thought, but with patience (glad I found that) and what turned out to be the right tools I was able to get right down to the finish, except in the pock marks that were there before the tape had been applied. For now I'm very happy with the result. I may revisit at a later date.

The right tools? A fine mechanics pick and primarily, a ceramics tool. The curved blade was brilliant for the contour of the back.



Thanks again everyone.