Making Picks from elk bone

[String Picker]

I've been making picks out of elk bone. Before my favorite was Blue Chip TD60, but I like these better. I'm going to mention some things I've learned, but I'm hoping one of you has been down this road before and has some helpful suggestions.

I use these picks on a Phoenix Neoclassical, and Phoenix Jazz -- two different kinds of instruments -- they work well on both.

So, here's what I've learned so far:

Elk bone works well. It makes for a bright, stiff pick.

The fibula has a flat part which is a good shape to work from. The scapula does too, plus the thick edge has sponge inside, which reduces overall mass.

The bones I’ve used were naturally cured outside first in the creek and then in the field, over most of a year, before I picked them up. I don’t know if they dry out or firm up over that time. But they cut and shape and play well.

I used elk bone because that's naturally available around here. Maybe cow bones would be similar.

Start by outlining the rough shape on a flat part of bone with a pen. Then cut it out with a band saw. (I wear a mask to avoid breathing in the bone dust.)

Next, use a bench sander to do final shaping. Bevel the pick end to an edge. Don’t bevel the holding end.

You can tune the pick by changing the size/mass progressively. Too large has a somewhat dull sound to my ear. Smaller mass sounds better to me, but if you go too far, it becomes hard to hold. It's interesting to shape some, play some, repeat; you'll hear the tone change each time.

A somewhat longish shape helps with holding, but too long and you’re working against leverage.

The pick end needs to be super smooth. Rough sand with the long pick dimension to avoid cross scratches. Then use very diamond hone, then very fine sandpaper.
Put some ink on the pick end where you’re polishing it. That helps reveal any scratches that still need buffing out.

The holding end needs to be well textured for grip. Dremel a cross hatch pattern into it.

If you select a flat bone (like the ridge of a scapula) which has a thickening at the outside, that thickening improves the grip on the distal part of the holding end.

During first use the strings are putting the final polish on the pick. You’ll smell the bone as you play. There’s a slight drag. It smooths out over a bit of time. Kind of like a brand new set of flat wound strings.

Maybe a diamond paste leather strop finish would give a slipperier pick end.

Avoid a pick shape that curves towards you. It plays very well when down picking, but then hangs up some on the up pick. Straight seems to work best.

With a good stiff pick you can play faster and cleaner. Turns out, you're a better player than you thought.

The elk bone seems to wear/last very well.

Ok, that's the end of my list, someone add some pointers I've not yet stumbled across.

[Bob Clark]

Thanks for posting this. Could we see a picture of these picks?

Best wishes,

Bob

[String Picker]

Sure.

One photo shows 4 picks, as I was first learning.

Another shows an early try at texture (drilling dots) in the holding end -- which didn't work well. But it also shows dremel crosshatch, which does work well. And you can see some horizontal score in one pick end, that had to be sanded out because it caught on the string. You can't really see the long one's curvature up off the windowsill, that's not optimal design.

Then you'll see a shot with just the most recent (today's) pick. It's flat, but fills out slightly at the holding end for better grip. A couple days from now the pick end will be nicely worn to a smooth polish.
It's my favorite so far.

These aren't made for pretty, only for function and tone, as you can see.

The wild elk in our woods get somewhat tame over winter, by spring a few stand grazing nearby and listen to the music I wrote for them. In a typical winter we lose one from the herd for various reasons. I like having the connection to one of our friends as I play to entertain them.

[pops1]

If you can find a dropped antler in the winter the center part will be firm. In other words the bone will be bone all the way thru, the center is where the blood flows and deer or elk that have been shot have live horns. The center will close down restricting the blood flow to the point it is solid before the antler falls off. Shed antlers are much better in my opinion for making most things, but are harder to find. They need to be hunted in winter, just after shedding, before the mice eat them. I have make bone picks, but didn't like them as much as man made material, I like the less resistance of the BC and Wegen when going across the strings. As each of us knows we all have our likes and dislikes, enjoyed seeing your picks, enjoy.

[String Picker]

Thanks for your comments, I didn't know the elk shed centers closed down before the shed.
We do have many sheds, the bulls typically leave them behind in the spring before they move up into the hills.
They're pretty massive compared to bones, it would take some bandsawing to first make flat blanks, and then cut picks.
Maybe next week.

I understand your preference for less resistance in the pick finish; the final bone polishing leaves a pretty slick surface which works well here. I'm thinking denser bones have a finer grain and allow for a smoother finish.

[Paul Busman]

Have you (or anyone else) tried other types of bone, including the readily available beef?

[String Picker]

The only other I’ve tried is beaver tooth, it was uncut and larger (still attached to bone) thus more mass, it lacked the sparkle.

I hope someone else can tell us about some more bone types.

[pops1]

I have used white tail deer antler, tauga nut, fossilized ivory. I only have a couple left as I have given most away and haven't made any in a long time. Here are a few I have left. The marks on the tauga nut pick are from the saw and I left them for grip. The smooth one has them on the back. The other is fossilized ivory. They don't sound bad, but I have gotten used to less drag on the strings and can't seem to go back.

[Roger Moss]

The only other I’ve tried is beaver tooth, it was uncut and larger (still attached to bone) thus more mass, it lacked the sparkle.

I hope someone else can tell us about some more bone types.

Beaver tooth is hard on the outside facing surface and soft on the inside facing surface. That's how they stay sharp for gnawing. You might try filing down the inside surface. That might improve the clarity. Otherwise, because of the curved shape, I don't expect it would make a great pick.

[String Picker]

Thanks for the three examples.

I wasn't familiar with "fossilized ivory", but google is a wondrous thing: "fossil ivory . . . is harvested from mammoth remains preserved in Siberian permafrost".

Same for "tauga nut": "The Tagua nut grows from the Ecuadorian Ivory Palm, Phytelephas aequatorialis, or literally, “plant elephant,” and is commonly referred to as “vegetable ivory.” ... During the rainy season it can take months for the seeds to dry to the point at which they can be used by the artisans to create tagua jewelry."

That's an eclectic set you present.

I share your interest in less drag; when the lapping compound gets here we'll see what that does with the bone.

[pops1]

If I remember I got the ivory from Alaska and it was walrus tusk. It was 20- years or so ago so I may be remembering wrong, I have been wrong before and most likely will be again.