Martin 2-15 neck

**oldtmer** · Apr-09-2018, 9:30pm

Years ago I bought a Martin 2-15 on eBay. I got it cheap, but it had a pronounced forward bow to the neck. Unplayable really. I had plans to remove the fret board, cut a channel in the neck, and epoxy in a rod. But life got in the way, and I unstrung the instrument and put it in storage. Now 5 or 6 years later I looked at it and - wow- the neck is straight.
What would YOU do. Reinforce the neck? Put on extra light strings?
Thanks for your time an consideration.

**sunburst** · Apr-09-2018, 10:18pm

The time, effort, and skill needed to remove the 'board and install a reinforcement would really add up, but if you want to go through it for whatever reason, I would probably recommend adding a carbon fiber reinforcement. Probably a length of 1/8" by 3/8", epoxied into a well-fit slot.
Otherwise, string it up with lights and play it.

**rcc56** · Apr-10-2018, 6:18pm

It might stay straight for the duration. But if you have doubts, you might want to consider pulling the board, cleaning the glue surfaces really well, and gluing it back together with hide glue, possibly with a few thousandths back bow.

I have a Gibson A here that was stored for years at full tension with one of GHS's heavier sets that I'm going to do the same with. I'm not going to reinforce it, though. I will probably dampen the raw neck surface and dry clamp it into a back bow and let it sit for a week or two before I re-glue the board. I may follow that with a good tight fret job. I suspect it will hold, the neck and board appear to still be pretty stiff.

I'm sure that the problem was caused by long term storage while over-strung. Around here, a stored mandolin can rise as much as a whole step during the summer. Couple that with heavy strings and it's a recipe for trouble. Those 11-16-26-4+ sets can wreak havoc with antique mandolins.

**pops1** · Apr-10-2018, 6:37pm

I have done what rcc56 is saying several times with guitars and mandolin and it has worked perfectly. If the neck is hefty I won't add the backbow, just flattening and regluing seems to make the difference.

**rcc56** · Apr-10-2018, 6:40pm

The number one argument for using hide glue for fingerboards: It doesn't creep!!

I do, however, stay away from "heat press" repairs with the original glue joint. Those seem to warp again, sooner or later. I prefer to remove the board, and re-glue with fresh glue.