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Thread: Finish options

  1. #1

    Default Finish options

    Well the routing of my mandolin for binding whent about how I expected, which is I screwed it up in a couple of places and the cut was too wide,( router lean?) in a couple of places where I was going to be uncomfortable using wood filler. I shaved some thin strips of wood, glued them to the channel and thinned the built up strips with a file. Pretty good job but it's going to need a very dark outside edge. I don't think I want to do a traditional burst, but I'm thinking dark or med brown to very dark brown might work. Or even very dark brown for the top.

    Plan B is Blackface, but I might cut the back route poorly too. LOL

    Any other suggestions? Not thrilled with covering the flame on the back which, if I can route the back better than I did the front, the blacktop with amber back and sides look appeals to me.
    Planning shellac because I like the look. Could I shellac over flat black laquer if it comes to that?
    Silverangel A
    Arches F style kit
    1913 Gibson A-1

  2. #2
    Registered User
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    Default Re: Finish options

    I had a similar problem on my first build. You can still get a burst if you desire. Applied the color with an airbrush and got this.https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/a...5&d=1484653436

  3. #3
    Registered User Tavy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Finish options

    Depending how far in you cut, you could just use wider binding, or a white-black-white laminate, or even stick some MOP round the edge. Failing that, yes a very dark burst or a black-top would do it. Don't underestimate how much work a black-top is though, especially if you're going for a gloss finish, it will show every last little defect in it's full glory (or even gory?!). Satin over black is much easy, but may turn out more slate grey than a really deep black.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Finish options

    I've got the channels all cleaned up and ready for the binding. I don't want a traditional burst. A Sheraton brown would be fine, but I was thinking a very dark outer edge. I have some maple boards to experiment with. The repaired sections are about two inches long and probably 1/32 of an inch tapered to nothing. I guess I'll just ignore them, apply color, then adjust as I go, going darker as necessary. I'm using alcohol dyes and shellac.

    I've had no illusions about the aesthetic quality of this build. Decent looking would be a bonus. Just going to accept doing the best I can and not show anyone the mandolin in good light.
    Silverangel A
    Arches F style kit
    1913 Gibson A-1

  5. #5

    Default Re: Finish options

    A very dark outer edge looks nice. Getting it dark and opaque enough to mask inconsistencies requires spraying that final shade coat (and masking/scraping the binding afterwards). It takes a steady, practiced hand with the spray gun. I'd practice on some cheap plywood cut outs in the shape of a mandolin.

  6. #6
    Adrian Minarovic
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    Default Re: Finish options

    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Roy View Post
    A very dark outer edge looks nice. Getting it dark and opaque enough to mask inconsistencies requires spraying that final shade coat (and masking/scraping the binding afterwards). It takes a steady, practiced hand with the spray gun. I'd practice on some cheap plywood cut outs in the shape of a mandolin.
    Exactly what many builders (including Gibson) do to hide gaps, filler and other oopses....
    Adrian

  7. #7
    Registered User Nick Gellie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Finish options

    This is how my Arches A-5 kit turned out using Shellac over transtint water-based dyes.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nic Gellie

  8. #8

    Default Re: Finish options

    Very nice. How does it sound?
    Silverangel A
    Arches F style kit
    1913 Gibson A-1

  9. #9
    Registered User Nick Gellie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Finish options

    It sounds that good that I sold all my commercially made mandolins. It has become my prime instrument now.

    The A and E strings have a warm bright sound. Plenty of volume and I have had pro mandolin players say that it is a very good mandolin.
    Nic Gellie

  10. #10

    Default Re: Finish options

    That is very exciting. I know I put mine together really well.Its shortcomings will be in binding quality and finish. But really I am building mine hoping to sound as good as what I could have bought for the same money. Anything more will be gravy.
    Silverangel A
    Arches F style kit
    1913 Gibson A-1

  11. #11
    Registered User Nick Gellie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Finish options

    It reminds me of an Ellis A-5 I once had for a short while. Mine has more projection though. So that is rewarding.

    Several professional musicians have remarked that it is good'un after playing it. That includes some top US mandolin players visiting Australia.
    Nic Gellie

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Finish options

    looks very nice and really clean. nice job .LEDBAILEY

  13. #13
    Registered User Nick Gellie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Finish options

    Quote Originally Posted by ledbailey View Post
    looks very nice and really clean. nice job .LEDBAILEY
    Thanks Led. I am going to step up the fit and finish quality in my next mandolin.
    Nic Gellie

  14. #14

    Default Re: Finish options

    The fit and finish sets the men apart from the boys. I'm a toddler at this point. The whole point of doing this is to enjoy the process, which I have certainly done. I'm so proud of my fixes I don't think I'm going to let them dictate the finish. If I want a light to medium Amber, or even blond, I think I'll look at the fixes with a certain amount of pride, especially if it sounds good.
    Silverangel A
    Arches F style kit
    1913 Gibson A-1

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