Re: Looking to buy my first Mandolin
Here are my subjective guidelines. They're worth approximately what you're paying for them (0¢):
1. Decide on a firm budget for your mandolin, and test only instruments within that budget. Otherwise you'll be dissatisfied with the mandolin you can afford.
2. A-models and F-models are pretty undistinguishable acoustically; F-models cost more because they're harder to manufacture. Unless you're really captivated by the F silhouette -- many folks are -- get an A model.
3. Nine chances out of ten a first mandolin will be imported from Asia. Asian manufacturers have sewed up the entry-level market.
4. If you know what you're doing, or have a friend whom you trust for advice, used is the way to go. You save up to 50% of the cost of a new mandolin. If you don't, buying new is marginally safer. In any case, I advise buying from a dealer, to whom you can go if there's a problem, or an adjustment/set-up is needed, rather than a private sale.
5. Solid wood's better than plywood. Check the specs on-line of the instrument you're considering; if it doesn't say "solid," it's plywood. Weasel adjectives like "select" don't mean diddly.
6. You might want to consider what kind of music you plan to play, as part of your selection process. If it's bluegrass, you probably want to get an arched-top mandolin with f-shaped soundholes, like those on a violin. If it's Celtic, jazz, folk etc., you can also consider a mandolin with a flat rather than arched top, and an oval soundhole.
7. If you get a mandolin with an arched top, it's better if it's described as "carved" (otherwise it's heat-pressed into an arch), and even better if it's "hand carved."
8. Here on the Cafe there are favorite brands for first-time purchases; among them are Kentucky, Loar, and Eastman. These are Asian-import mandolins that have good track records for design, construction, and quality control That's not a guarantee, and there are surely other acceptable brands, but these are the ones that get consistent recommendations.
9. Crucial to an acceptable first mandolin, is a proper set-up. Many of the larger on-line sellers, like Musician's Friend, don't offer dealer set-ups; you get the instrument as it was shipped from the factory. Dealers affiliated with the Cafe, like Folkmusician.com, Mandolin Store, Elderly Instruments, do shop set-ups. You can get set-ups from a local dealer, or you can learn to do it yourself (not brain surgery!), but bridge fit, location and height, neck relief, nut slot depth, and other variables determine whether the instrument plays easily and in tune -- or not.
Lots of things to think about. My personal preference is to find a good local dealer with a decent selection of new and used instruments, and give him/her your business -- good for the dealer and for you. Not everyone has that option; many must buy on-line, pretty much sight-unseen. If you go that route, get a trial period if at all possible, so you're not just "stuck" if there are problems.
Good luck! Let us know what you end up buying.
Allen Hopkins
Gibsn: '54 F5 3pt F2 A-N Custm K1 m'cello
Natl Triolian Dobro mando
Victoria b-back Merrill alumnm b-back
H-O mandolinetto
Stradolin Vega banjolin
Sobell'dola Washburn b-back'dola
Eastmn: 615'dola 805 m'cello
Flatiron 3K OM
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